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Front Engine Mounting Bolt Stuck!


jandyb
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Hi

Now I am in deep sh*** again! :rolleyes:

While stripping the engine for painting (see other topic) I couldnt get the front end mounting bolt loose. Putting 90Kg on the allen key didnt help other than destroying the internal hex. Finally got to drill out the bolt head - that bolt is hard - I figured it was just to hit it loose, but no. It is actually stuck in the engine casing! Probably by corroding together. What do I do now? I am afraid to hit too hard cause the magnesium casing probably doesnt cope too much.

Any ideas on how to attack this?

Anyone experience this before?

-Jan

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In Addition to the suggestion above, if the bolt is now useless it does help to drill a hole into the bolt concentrically just smaller than it's outside diameter but not right through. Effectively turning the bolt into a blind thin wall tube.

It will then tend to collapse and free off much easier.

Preferably use a hot air gun to do the heating on Mag Alloy.

Wayne...

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Thanks for your help guys. It really help me see the light in the tunnel...

Got a plan now. First I will try to get the engine out of the frame by cutting the bolt on each side af the engine. Then I will try some heating while knocking gently. Hot air gun is probably a good idea. Magnesium actually burns doesnt it?

If this doesnt work I will try to find a metal workshop nearby that have the right equipment to drill a hole in the bolt like Wayne suggests. Why not all the way through by the way?

I will keep you informed...

-Jan

Edited by JanDyb
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If you drill right through you can't easily punch it out :)

Yes magnesium burns well!

Wayne....

Ahh.. of course. Clever! :rolleyes:

And another thought then: With a hole inside its possible to chill the entire bolt down with chilling spray...

-Jan

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undo the two front bash plate bolts to relieve some tension on the engine at the front. Ive just removed and reinstalled mine and found this helps loads as the engine is held under pressure from the rubber wedge between engine and bash plate. The opposite side from hex head is a nut strange round thing which will knock out as the frame as no threads.

If all fails f*#k the paint job off, just cover in mud :rolleyes:

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undo the two front bash plate bolts to relieve some tension on the engine at the front. Ive just removed and reinstalled mine and found this helps loads as the engine is held under pressure from the rubber wedge between engine and bash plate. The opposite side from hex head is a nut strange round thing which will knock out as the frame as no threads.

If all fails f*#k the paint job off, just cover in mud :rolleyes:

I've had the same and found what smalley say to have worked for me ...

Undo front mounts and bolt comes free....

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Update:

Removed Bash plate. Yes. A lot of tension there but didnt help..

Cut off the bolt on the right hand side and managed to get it out of the frame. Now I have the bolt cut even on the right and about 20 mm out on the left side.

Bought a hot air gun yesterday and have heated the cases so the oil are boiling... no help... yet

all the time used a lot of chill spray and lubricant... no help yet

This thing is really stuck. All the time used a small sledgehammer to hit it with and I havent held back any.

Got a suggestion today to use a workshop press like this

CSA10B.jpg

What do you think? I am a bit afraid to damage my cases though...

-Jan

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Ummm, thoughts,

If you have been able to drive it out 20mm, then cut it off and drive it back in enough to clear the frame, which should allow you to remove motor for easier drilling and extraction, removing the shaft by cutting step by step if needed, starting with a small drill, working it larger and staying on center which is critical. Ummm! Magnesium/ali corrosiun sucks!

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Ummm, thoughts,

If you have been able to drive it out 20mm, then cut it off and drive it back in enough to clear the frame, which should allow you to remove motor for easier drilling and extraction, removing the shaft by cutting step by step if needed, starting with a small drill, working it larger and staying on center which is critical. Ummm! Magnesium/ali corrosiun sucks!

No I maybe didnt describe it correctly. The bolt is cut even on the right side but on the left side I have only drilled out the bolt head leaving about 20 mm of the bolt outside the engine. I havent been able to drive it one single mm. I think if I had manage to move it one mm the problem would be solved..

Havent said it before but there is no threads involved exept for about 5 mm threads on the bolt that are inside the engine on the right side. No threads in the casings.

I am still soaking it with penetrating oil and are giving it some punches everey other our or so..

I think my two options now are:

1. Giving it some tons of pressure using a hydraulic workshop press. Still afraid to damage the casing though.

2. Find someone who has equipment to drill a straight hole right through. Correction: Almost right through.

-Jan

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Gday, Id stay away from the press. Heartbreak will be the result of that. Stick with heat from the air gun and penetrating spray and sharp knocks from a hammer (not too sharp!). Get plenty of heat into it but try to stay away from the bolt itself so you are expanding the case. It will let go eventually.

Cheers,

Stork

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Hi Jan,

I agree with Stork, do not use a press, you may crush the magnesium. Drilling straight in a machine shop could be the only answer, I must say I stripped out my front engine bolt for greasing after reading your post - thanks for the reminder!

Try twisting the bolt after heating the area with the hot air gun.

Good luck, PeterB.

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