tony27 Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 (edited) My Jarvis appears to have done it's 2nd stator this year, not managed to ride as much as normal possibly 12 times in 8months Does anyone know where the resistance readings for the Leonelli coil unit can be found? I know readings for the stator as was provided with them to confirm the last 1 was dead earlier this year Worst part is apart from DNFing the last 2 rounds of our north island champs & having to spectate for most of the 2 days is that I've had to pay $600+ each for the last 2 & new importer based in a different country means no warranty. Who said betas had ignition problems, at least they get their stators replaced. Edited September 28, 2009 by tony27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-shock 250 Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 (edited) Drop an e-mail to Leonelli direct, i've found them to be very helpful with warranty issues (speak good english too.) Edited September 28, 2009 by t-shock 250 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Just picked my bike up & tested with a meter, readings were a bit higher than listed but that could be difference in meters. Bike started first kick with the tank off which is worrying, while it was running I noticed the plug cap must have a crack in it as it was arcing to the fan motor which wasn't noticable beforehand I wouldn't think that would cause no spark when hot then after between 5&20 minutes of cooling allow it to return. Yesterday there was no spark at all after it died waiting to enter a section, didn't return at all I'm thinking that I'll have to replace the cap then remove the flywheel & use a hairdrier to heat up the windings to see if there is any change in resistance Any other thoughts on tests to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hey Tony, You could always do a test on my 300 Raga. I'd still go for testing the plug/socket connection from the main harness from the stator, when you get the bike going, wiggle it around (the connector) and see if you can replicate the fault. Also, see if you can replace the HT lead and cap seeing as the cap was shorting to ground - lead may do the same. I had that problem on a Honda 400 four some years back where all the HT leads and caps would arc to the engine when it rained, fixed that with self amalgamating rubber tape. Ta ta, PeterB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsnutterman Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 I'd put a new cap on it and go for a good practise and see if it happens again, sound to me that this will be your problem. Oh and make sure all your earths are good, i.e. clean and tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsnutterman Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 The HT lead isn't replaceable so don't try and unscrew it, it will snap off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 (edited) Hi Peter Still puzzled as to why I couldn't get spark sunday back at the van, took all the connectors apart & reassembled to no avail. No shorting from cap either due to it sitting in a different position Had a look for the kokusan ignition you told me about in the weekend but only ended up finding their site which talks about different diameters but no specific fitments Plan for tonight is new cap & then heating the stator with a hairdrier(too chicken for heatgun) to see if its a heatsoak issue with readings dropping as temp rises Edited September 28, 2009 by tony27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 The HT lead isn't replaceable so don't try and unscrew it, it will snap off. Just FYI, they are replacable. Seems the original leads were set with an epoxy sealer of some sort. If one takes the time to carefully pick it out, they can be redone. Carefull, as there is a small prick post in the center that goes into the wire portion of the lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsnutterman Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Just FYI, they are replacable. Seems the original leads were set with an epoxy sealer of some sort. If one takes the time to carefully pick it out, they can be redone.Carefull, as there is a small prick post in the center that goes into the wire portion of the lead. Wow you must be tighter than me It's go to know though, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 Wow you must be tighter than me It's go to know though, thank you. I will not be the one to take claim to that tidbit. That goes to my first hand view of Brad at RYP actually doing it! Patience of a saint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howie314 Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 (edited) The HT lead isn't replaceable so don't try and unscrew it, it will snap off. I have manged to do this. I cut the old ht lead flush with coil then cut away at the reaminder with a watch makers screwy. eventually uncovering the normal screw. The porblem is they must be factory sealed with silly *unt. you can get them out just be very careful. I was having just spend Edited October 3, 2009 by howie314 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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