stushine Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 on my 2007 sherco, once the engine has cooled down and not been run for a few hours, the clutch plates seem to be sticking together, so when you knock it in gear, even tho the clutch is pulled in the wheel starts to spin.. if i put it in gear, hold clutch in and rock it about, it frees straight away, but its abit of a pain having to do that every time.... whats causing it and can it he stopped or is it just something you have to put up with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graeme17 Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 (edited) I have the same problem on my Beta Rev3, I have tried a few things and have so far been unable to resolve the problem. If i remove the clutch plates i have to peel them apart due to "hydraulic suction" and i believe this is why the clutch is not disengaging properly. When i clean the plates with solvent and put back together with new ATF the clutch operates perfectly for a few hours before playing up again. I have also roughened up the metal clutch plates with emery paper and this worked for a longer period before again playing up. I have bled the hydraulic clutch and this seems to be ok. My mates all use ATF and have no problems. The problem occurrs regardless of the engine being hot or cold. Does anyone know if there is any mechanical adjustment in the clutch, I suspect that the clutch is now spreading apart enough or indeed could be wrong again. Edited September 29, 2009 by GRAEME17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husky Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Take the clutch plates out,I bet the clutch hub and basket have grooves worn in them where the plates engage.The cure is to file carefully these areas to make them smooth.The plates are sticking in the grooves and not coming apart= clutch not disengaging.If the metal plates are blue from giving the clutch a lot of stick these will need replacing as they will be warped.My 06 sherco had the same fault,doing this cured it;only downside is the clutch rattling a bit at tickover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 In my experience, the fresher the oil seems to mitagate this issue, andd the thinner oils such as ATF(Merc synthetic) help, but no total resolve. All a tradeoff for feel and such. M2C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlracer Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 The plates are sticking together as posted by suction. Copie if you are going to be at the Muenster 2 day i'll explain to you how to fix the clutch then you can type it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stushine Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 what would happen if after the bike was rode and the clutch was working normal, when putting the bike away we left it with something round the handllebars/cutch lever to keep the clutch pulled in? the plates cudnt stick then could they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graeme17 Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) Take the clutch plates out,I bet the clutch hub and basket have grooves worn in them where the plates engage.The cure is to file carefully these areas to make them smooth.The plates are sticking in the grooves and not coming apart= clutch not disengaging.If the metal plates are blue from giving the clutch a lot of stick these will need replacing as they will be warped.My 06 sherco had the same fault,doing this cured it;only downside is the clutch rattling a bit at tickover. The clutch basket, hub and plates are perfect and have no wear, and the clutch doesn't slip. My feeling is that the basket isn't being actuated sufficiently to break the suction unless the oil is less than a couple of hours old. Presumebly there is an actuating rod that acts on the basket I wonder if there is any mechanical adjustment between the the hydraulic cylinder an this actuating rod that would increase the travel. Has anyone taken the clutch cylinder off a REV3, whats behind it rlracer I'll not be at the 2 day at the weekend, but would be interested in your fix Edited September 30, 2009 by GRAEME17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsnutterman Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 The only adjustment is at the lever on the master cylinder, I find mine best when all but the tinyist bit of free play is taken out of the lever but I doubt this is your problem. Because the system is hydraulic any wear in the actuating rod or the plates is automatically adjusted for, just like when you pads wear on the brake the lever stays in the same place, so other than the lever adjuster you cannot change the travel without going to a lot of trouble. All of the bikes stick a little when cold, they usually get better when warm so it might be worth having a go on somebody else's bike to see if yours is any worse. You say it is OK with new oil, so how old is the oil in there now and what oil are you using? I always use the recommended Ipone Gear Box Oil (Box 2 Synthesis) and I change it fairly regularly, usually when I feel the clutch sticking slightly say every couple of months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 The plates are sticking together as posted by suction. Copie if you are going to be at the Muenster 2 day i'll explain to you how to fix the clutch then you can type it out. My plates work just fine! Still running the light setup, is Shack? He is a bit rougher on them than me! I still always ck it before startup though. For the one wanting to separate the plates with more travel, this will not work, as there is nothing that forces the actual plates apart. A SHEAR force is neccessary to break the STICTION of the plates once stuck. Micro Grooving by roughening the steel plates with something like #80 grit paper on a flat surface will help in breaking the surface tention and typically last longer than a buff with a finer grade for those running the standard clutch and thicker oils. I must work Saturday, RL, the weekend is likely off, as well as the series, although I may still try to make the OK event! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graeme17 Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 The only adjustment is at the lever on the master cylinder, I find mine best when all but the tinyist bit of free play is taken out of the lever but I doubt this is your problem. Because the system is hydraulic any wear in the actuating rod or the plates is automatically adjusted for, just like when you pads wear on the brake the lever stays in the same place, so other than the lever adjuster you cannot change the travel without going to a lot of trouble. All of the bikes stick a little when cold, they usually get better when warm so it might be worth having a go on somebody else's bike to see if yours is any worse. You say it is OK with new oil, so how old is the oil in there now and what oil are you using? I always use the recommended Ipone Gear Box Oil (Box 2 Synthesis) and I change it fairly regularly, usually when I feel the clutch sticking slightly say every couple of months. Hi, I'm currently using ATF and when changed the clutch works perfect even when cold, after a few hours use it will start to play up when cold again and after a few more hours the problem can occur even when hot. It is particularly annoying when the problem causes the bike to stall in a section and effects confidence on steps when you are unsure if pulling the clutch will stop drive. I shall give oil you recommend a try but all my mates REV3's work fine for ages on ATF, perhaps my clutch was machined on a Friday afternoon or Monday morning!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlracer Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 Shack was running 2 less springs ! I road his bike two years ago and the clutch slipped very badly, I asked him what he had done cause sherco clutches are pretty tough. He said he was told that the clutch would have a lighter pull if he took two springs out, sherco already has a light pull,I laughed my A off. Cost him over a hundred dollars to fix it. If you are a light weight and ride easy stuff you might be able to get away with taking two springs out. What Cope said on roughing up the steels will work on helping brake the stiction. But the fix came from a local guy named Larry in Sandsprings, Ok. , he uses a thread file on the fiber plates buy putting a couple of score lines in each square of the fiber plates it will release when cold, doesn't slip. Everyone around here that has done this has been happy . It just takes time, yes time ! and as Cope would say a few light cold ones. Cope I want be in Okla either I have to go to a wedding. See you in Kansas ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Oh yes, I recall now as you did mention that before, good tip! The whole thing about running the -2 spring setup seems that the ATF is mandatory to reduce slippage. Then we get into which ATF? Those wanting to run cheap dextron should not apply! The Mercedes or Allison spec full synthec ATF is what I am talking about. Not cheap stuff! It may still react more quickly than the thicker gear oil with the standard 6 springs set, much depends upon what the rider wants? I can still get a quick pop and no slip running 33% less lever pressure, but I will admit it takes some adjustment! Anyway, Give Brad my best wishes and a big man hug! Good lad he is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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