ham2 Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 (edited) Hmmm, that part's broken off and you have got possible gearbox pressurization? Too much of a co-incidence so check for a crankcase hairline-fracture in that area?? That part doesn't just deflect the oil flow. If it's the bit I'm thinking of, it's also a fillet radius (web) to strengthen the counterbore/wall-section where the crank main-bearing sits . Like a hobo in the park; you gotta go on a crack hunt Edited October 13, 2009 by HAM2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted October 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Hmm, good thinking... Magnifying glass shows up nothing, will do a penetrant test tommorow. Pictures are late but will definately be up later, cant find usb cable. The peice broken off is about 1cm, no bigger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 I can't see no friggin crack, you been sniffin butt crack, Ham! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted October 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 (edited) Okay, no pics as USB cable has decided to go on it's fall vacation... Will find out where it is if and when it sends a postcard. So for now I'm gonna leave you with what I have so far as a quick refresher... Lumpy Idle Rich - Lean variations No leaks around manifold Slight smokyness Oil leaking from top crankase breather Leak under pressure Leak continues until 150-200 cc's of oil remain. No Coolant lost Recent water pump seal replacement Recent clutch retaining nut replacement Chunk of inner casing missing No cracks around this part of casing, apparant after penetrant test. Work has halted for a while though, as the clutch basket holder is on back order from the factory so have to wait for this to remove the primary drive gear... Also needing a flywheel holder, got the puller, no holder... Will knock one up and sort out flywheel side on friday or saturday. As for clutch side, will delve further into the casing damage and sort the seal out whenever the holder arrives. Going to burn out muff and clean frontpipe whilst it's all apart too... theres a lot of play in kickstart shaft, is this ment to be? its tight when outer casing is on, but really loose when casing is removed. Cheers, Jamie Edit: Butchered Ham's pic... chunk is missing from the red line, to the bottom of the peice... goes right back to the casing. Edited October 15, 2009 by shercoman2k8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 Well, get back to your seal thing then and hope to correct things. As the running problem of the oil is just recent, does not point to a problem with the case web, unless you have some idea what may have caused this, as you were the last man in there with the other issues. How did that happen? Add, where did that chunk go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 And, where did that chunk go? Probably stuck behind the main pinion messing up the main bearing seal Good thread guys ....sorry it's taken me so long to catch up with it. At times I've run both my 125 and my 250 without a crank case breather tube and never saw a single drop of oil come out that way. If it were my bike I wouldn't be closing that case unit the 1cm bit has been welded up and the main bearing seal has been replaced. The main pinion is hard to get off but the seal is easy to get out with a seal hook tool. Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted October 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 I have the chunk, it was sitting underneath the clutch basket... Peice was maybe damaged when my clutch decided to fly around the inside of the bike, it has probably then been weakened further by impact, as I have been practicing a lot of splats recently... I remember hearing a loud rattle after hitting the sump on an edge rather hard once. Maybe this did it? It doesnt appear to of caused any damage. Ordered a new impact gun as I cant get hold of a clutch holder or flywheel holder... and dont have the material to make one up at this moment in time. Should be able to investigate further monday, or tuesday. Neo - This bike was ran without a breather pipe up until the leak appeared, then with the pipe on, the leak continued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 Gan canny with that impact gun ,great for undoing but when you're nipping things up you've got to have a skillful touch (wot I divvent hev ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 Ordered a new impact gun What type of Impact driver have you ordered? I have an automotive 12v electric one. It's actually for removing wheel nuts but I find it perfect for working on the bike. It just not powerful enough to shear a good size bolt. And takes some time to tighten up to the really tight settings. I cant get hold of a clutch holder or flywheel holder... and don't have the material to make one up at this moment in time. You will need one to get that clutch nut off...there's no way round it. Believe it or not I made one out of a peace of 6mm hardboard (ply would also do).....I can post up some details if you're interested? And it's easy to make if you've worked with wood before. You'll also need to jam a small chunk of wood between the main pinion and the pinion to hold them while you use you impact driver. But even with the nut off the main pinion can be very hard to remove. I have a trick for this too but it would be hard to explain without photos and I'm not in a position to take the side cover off of my Sherco at the moment. All said you might want to consider taking your bike to a local motorbike shop and get them to remove the clutch basket, main pinion and pull out the main seal for you?? Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted October 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 An electric one, 12v, half inch. I got the clutch nut off last time using one, when I found out the basket was on with the washer in the wrong place. Came off easy as pie! And i'll of got the proper holding tool back by the time im reassembling, my mate has one but he's away for a few weeks. The pinion gear, if i remember from splitting the cases on my 06, is a ******* to remove.. Someone said to loop some string around the bottom, and turn the shaft backwards and forwards as you shimmy it up the shaft with the string? That comes after trying the classic method of pulling as hard as possible. I have plans to try and make my own clutch holder later today to save waiting, but its no hassle really to wait. No desperation. But I have a stack of old clutch plates, so maybe 2 steels, and 2 friction plates together, with 2 bolts through, onto a handle of sorts? Or theres a beta one on ebay for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 18, 2009 Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 An electric one, 12v, half inch.I got the clutch nut off last time using one, when I found out the basket was on with the washer in the wrong place. Came off easy as pie! And i'll of got the proper holding tool back by the time im reassembling, my mate has one but he's away for a few weeks. The pinion gear, if i remember from splitting the cases on my 06, is a ******* to remove.. Someone said to loop some string around the bottom, and turn the shaft backwards and forwards as you shimmy it up the shaft with the string? That comes after trying the classic method of pulling as hard as possible. I have plans to try and make my own clutch holder later today to save waiting, but its no hassle really to wait. No desperation. But I have a stack of old clutch plates, so maybe 2 steels, and 2 friction plates together, with 2 bolts through, onto a handle of sorts? Or theres a beta one on ebay for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted October 18, 2009 Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 I'll agree with Cope about the broken off piece of case, if theres no cracks just do the seal. That piece has no real important function from what I have seen. Have a look at Ham's photo that you drew on & you'll see that only the pinion needs removing & the clutch can be left in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted October 18, 2009 Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 Sorry gents but Sherco go to the trouble of making the gasket travel all the way to the end of that broken bits line and the side cover has the same line in it. So I'm sure it's much more important than your'e thinking. shercoman, I believe your going to have a dam hard time undoing that primary pinion nut without the clutch pinion and a jam bit in place. I did that same job only 5 weeks ago so I fairly sure on this. Go for 2 jaw puller (because you won't believe what I used to remove that pinion ) But the clearance behind that pinion is very tight so a small puller made of flat bar (with right angled ends) would be best. Just tighten-and-tap, tighten-and-tap (with a very small hammer) as you go. Best of luck. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted October 18, 2009 Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 I'll agree with Cope about the broken off piece of case, if theres no cracks just do the seal. That piece has no real important function from what I have seen.Have a look at Ham's photo that you drew on & you'll see that only the pinion needs removing & the clutch can be left in place Yes,people, that primary drive pinion was a bugger to get off ....there is next to no room behind it for the legs of a standard puller so I had to grind them back (wafer thin) like Cope says. Watch you don't burr the teeth edges on the gear when you use a puller/screwdriver?...if you do you'll must use a fine carborundum stone to dress it..you must avoid a high spot on those gears that's why, I personally, wouldn't jam them to hold them. DISCLAIMER--This is a HAM bodge--- but I'm sure there is a multi-wall(6?) drive socket that fits perfectly over the front sprocket drive shaft so you can torque away to your hearts content ( I know this 'tests' your transmission!). Like Cope says ,if your web is intact I wouldn't worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted October 18, 2009 Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 I'm sure there is a multi-wall(6?) drive socket that fits perfectly over the front sprocket drive shaft Hey Ham.....you've lost me here....could you please explain what this tool is and how it hold the the main pinion and turns the nut at the same time? I know what you're saying but I've used a small peace of wood as a jam a few times now. The teeth tend to bite into the wood and that spreads the load down into the teeth. And I've not seen a single mark on the the teeth while using this method. Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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