trialsbikeadam Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 HTRDOUG- I'm second guessing going out to Tippecanoe myself, with the new sherco issue's and them calling for rain. We have a 5th wheel toy hauler we use to go to the "go fast" races and after seeing the parking lot in dayton we'd never get that thing in there so with them calling for rain we might just pass. I'm located right by nashville, story to be exact I'd love to see what you guys are making out there and lend a hand if i'm in town! Keep me updated. Thanks, adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Adam, I know there is not a lot of roombetween the fuel inlet to carb and the muff, but what I do is sort of make a little loop in the line by running it over to the left side, curving it over by the clutch hose, then back to the petcock, allowing the natural force of the hose to keep it away from the muff. Hope that makes sense. If the bike seems to be running pretty much OK, I would not be overly concerned about the pilot jet, it just seems many of the bikes came set too lean and you have to run the mixture screw way far out at 3 or more turns to get them to run. The 36 seems about right for most, and some of this depends upon fuel. I can't even find fuel without alcohol anymore around here. I just would not be over-concerned about the vent hose spatter, I have noticed some on occasion, but it stops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 If you're still running the standard dellorto the routing of the hose can be affected quite a bit by where the inlet/filter cover is tightened up, you can loosen the bolt & twist the hose to a new position. Mine doesn't loop around the clutch hose & sits nowhere near the exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 If you're still running the standard dellorto the routing of the hose can be affected quite a bit by where the inlet/filter cover is tightened up, you can loosen the bolt & twist the hose to a new position. Mine doesn't loop around the clutch hose & sits nowhere near the exhaust Hey Tony, Can you be a bit more specific please, imagine you're looking at the carb' from the exhaust side what angle (o'clock) is the inlet pointing at? Cheers, Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikeadam Posted October 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 I got stuck working late last night so no time to fiddle with the sherco and i'm being pressured by the go fast guys to get out with them tonight. Ripping on the ole' KTM might be just the reprieve I need from wrenching on the sherco I'll get the numbers off the pilot jet by tomorrow night and wait to hear the final word on the best position for the dellorto fuel inlet before attempting another fuel routing change. If anyone has a pic of how they run their line it seems it might be super helpful to us that may still be a little foggy. Thanks again to all, for your tips,suggestions, and questions. Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 This should give you a better idea what I am talking about. The routing itself pushes the hose away from the muff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Hi ham2 Had a quick look & would have to say if holding carb upright then hose comes in at 1-1:30, gives 1-2mm clearance on muffler. I have my carb so that the choke lever fits pretty much in the centre of the pocket in the tank, this also has an effect on where the hose runs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikeadam Posted October 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Thanks guys!!! It's a rainy mess here today so i'll be tearing back into the sherco and applying all the tips and tricks you have suggested (that already haven't been done) I'll give a full report on my findings/results tomorrow. Thanks again, Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikeadam Posted October 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Ok have been into the sherco since i've been home and this what i've found. Pilot jet is a 35, main is 115 so everything looks ok there, re-routed fuel line to maximize distance from the muffler, set fuel screw to 4 turns out, put in brand new BPR5EIX iridium plug gapped to 20 thousandths, fuel is staright outta the pump 93 octane mixed with bel-ray MC1 @ 80:1, air filter and box are spotless, checked all wiring for bad spots (found a few,,,, ,,,more). After all of this the bike was still contrary to start, so i puled the flywheel cover and sparyed electronics cleaner behind the flywheel (since i don't have a puller) just to get anything that might be hidding back there out. While doing this i just had the notion to also do it while it was running, and whatta you know a three second burst of electronics cleaner behind the flywheel results in a much crisper (and lower) idle with nasty smelling plums of white smoke out the exhaust!! Looks to me like we have a leaky crank seal but wanted to bounce this off you and ask for some direction from here. There is no excessive smoke normally so i doubt the clutch side is bad but should i replace both anyway? I remember reading on one thread that somewhere on here is instructions on how to replace crank seals and that it was pretty straight forward? If we all agree on crank seals where should I get them and a puller? RYP? Thanks and i look forward to hearing back and hopefully we've got this nipped in the butt!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 (edited) Many good manuals here from Wayne Not sure if those are what you need or you may already know of them. Engine Teardown, this may be of interest to you Edited October 15, 2009 by ZIPPY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikeadam Posted October 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Thanks those manuals are helpful! I was hoping not to have to tear it down completely, can you sneak the seals out from the out side? like with a seal pick? then just drive the new ones back in? I've searched up and down for a post relating to the actual replacement of the seals and i'm sure it's on here. I just can't seem to find it! if anyone knows where it is , that would be great!!! Thanks, Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Based upon your testing, as described, you are on to it! Good test, yet I would do a verifing ck! Seems these reports on leaky seals are a somewhat new development! Add still rare! Good stuff ! Flywheel puller needed! Seal composition is still somewhat in question here. Seals black or brown as removed? Nitrile or Viton? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 (edited) Ryan would be your best place to get the seals & puller, that way you know you're getting the right stuff. I didn't get my puller genuine but is a buzzeti one made in italy, thread is the same as old bultacos which is how i found out which size i needed, think quite a few trials bikes use the same thread You can do the seals without splitting the cases just removal of the clutch casing & drive gear. It's not a hard job to do apart from getting the gear off & should leave you with change from $100 Edited October 15, 2009 by tony27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikeadam Posted October 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Awesome Thanks a million all!!!!!!!! I'm going to place the order from RYP this morning and i've heard most stuff can be had within a day or two from my distance! I'll keep updating as progress proceeds and the questions i'm sure i'll have. I'll update the color/type of seals in the bike and new ones as soon as i lay eyes on em'. Thanks again this forum is a great help Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikeadam Posted October 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Got the seals installed in the sherco this weekend. Haven't put much ride time on it to verify the problems are gone but it defiently idles a lot more crisp! Both the seals I recieved from RYP and the ones that came out were BLACK. Even if these "BLACK" seals only last 3 years this project is sooo simple and easy it wouldn't be bad every 3 years. My only remaining question (assuming the problem is fixed) is what is the best way to seal the flywheel cover? Thanks, Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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