zippy Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 (edited) Flywheel cover----------------- I just use some silicone gasket maker of your choice. Put some in the groove that the O-ring sits in, put O-ring in groove. If you are really feeling like gooing it up good, put a thin film on the case as well. reinstall. Seems to work OK on my bike. HMMMMMMMMm, does this mean that you won't be selling the bike at a bargain basement price to me? I can't purchase anything right now anyways. Edited October 20, 2009 by ZIPPY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htrdoug Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 Hey Adam, If you wanna try yer bike out bring it over to Bloomington wednesday night around 5:30,we're gonna be working on the trials sections just west of town,I think I've got my Fantic back together and will likely be bringing it along to mess around on once we finish clearing some more brush.(I do have to replace the broken front brake lever yet,I think I've got a temporary replacement until I can get a Domino lever) I'll give you a call 2morrow and let you know how to get there. Got the seals installed in the sherco this weekend. Haven't put much ride time on it to verify the problems are gone but it defiently idles a lot more crisp! Both the seals I recieved from RYP and the ones that came out were BLACK. Even if these "BLACK" seals only last 3 years this project is sooo simple and easy it wouldn't be bad every 3 years. My only remaining question (assuming the problem is fixed) is what is the best way to seal the flywheel cover? Thanks, Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 Got the seals installed in the sherco this weekend. Haven't put much ride time on it to verify the problems are gone but it defiently idles a lot more crisp! Both the seals I recieved from RYP and the ones that came out were BLACK. Even if these "BLACK" seals only last 3 years this project is sooo simple and easy it wouldn't be bad every 3 years. My only remaining question (assuming the problem is fixed) is what is the best way to seal the flywheel cover? Thanks, Adam Ok Adam, glad it is good! Your posts have raised a number of questions and potential issues. Foremost, the reported leaky seals coming out of the bikes do indeed seem to be black, initially indicating they are indeed Nitrile and not Viton which is supposedly better material and may last longer. I am still not sure if there are any identifing numbers on these old seals that may be back referenced to verify? There have also been changes in the use of "sealed" as compared to conventional, main bearings that started in about '06 as I recall. To me, there are other things that come to mind as potential causes for premature seal deterioration, yet all theory. Did they seem loose in sealing on the shaft, as if they had taken a hard set? The other thing with the #35 pilot in your prior post, if you are having to run 4 turns out on the screw, that is just a bit too much in my mind and just out of the real op range of the screw. Pick up a 38 along the line and plug it in! This should hopefully bring you back to around 2.5 turn range on the screw and more in its working range. That little trick seemed to kill my off idle pinging problem as well on mine. The dellorto has a secondary transition passage that is effected kinda before you hit the needle it seems. Yes, as compared to most race bikes, it is all minor! Add well put into perspective, as you obviously have some experience with the other side! Thanks and Cheers, MC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikeadam Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 HTRDOUG- I got my self into one of the deals where you get a really cheap hot tub but you and your suckers... cough.. excuse me I mean friends have to come out and move it, well that is supposed to be happening tomorrow (wed.) night but if it falls through which i would say has atleast a 30% likelyhood of doing so, i would love to come out tomorrow with you guys! i should know wether or not the hot tub thing is going down by tomorrow afternoon and i'll give you a shout if not! Thanks for the invite i appreciate it. Zippy- Yeah I guess i'm going to stick the sherco out for a bit longer, unless the air filter gets the best of me ! I've got a few ideas rolling around about a re-design that hopefully would make life for me and the engine better! For the flywheel cover, that's what i was afraid of. I had done it that way and upon my disassembly of the flywheel side for the crank seals i noticed bits of RTV floating around in there that had broken off from the "sqeeze out" on the inside(even behind the windings). I'm concerned this may have had a part in crank seal failure on that side, unknown for sure but no sense in taking a chance. I assembled it this time by smoothing the RTV across the cover and letting it dry before installing. Essentialy making a rubber gasket. Who knows we'll give it a try and see Copemech- I'll order a 38 pilot no problem and it give it a whirl. What do you suggest on the 115 main? is that in range or should we bump it up one or two as well? I cannot say why the seals failed but they didn't seem hardned and were almost as pliable as the new ones. One theory(atleast for flywheel side) might be, upon disassembly of the flywheel side I found "strings" of RTV from the "sqeeze out" on the inside of the cover from trying to seal it. I found them even behind the plate! They weren't wrapped around the shaft but it doesn't mean they never were. That would wipe out a seal immediately! Could have just been from fatigue too, who knows, no smoking guns unfortunately. All and all the whole mess cost 66 bucks for seals, gasket, and flywheel puller ( I used a rubber strap wrench to hold the hold the clutch hub/housing ) saving 60 bucks. I've seen a few places on here people mention running 10w-40 in their crankcase? RYP recomends 75w is the 10w-40 seeming to help something? Thanks, Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 HTRDOUG- I got my self into one of the deals where you get a really cheap hot tub but you and your suckers... cough.. excuse me I mean friends have to come out and move it, well that is supposed to be happening tomorrow (wed.) night but if it falls through which i would say has atleast a 30% likelyhood of doing so, i would love to come out tomorrow with you guys! i should know wether or not the hot tub thing is going down by tomorrow afternoon and i'll give you a shout if not! Thanks for the invite i appreciate it. Zippy- Yeah I guess i'm going to stick the sherco out for a bit longer, unless the air filter gets the best of me ! I've got a few ideas rolling around about a re-design that hopefully would make life for me and the engine better! For the flywheel cover, that's what i was afraid of. I had done it that way and upon my disassembly of the flywheel side for the crank seals i noticed bits of RTV floating around in there that had broken off from the "sqeeze out" on the inside(even behind the windings). I'm concerned this may have had a part in crank seal failure on that side, unknown for sure but no sense in taking a chance. I assembled it this time by smoothing the RTV across the cover and letting it dry before installing. Essentialy making a rubber gasket. Who knows we'll give it a try and see Copemech- I'll order a 38 pilot no problem and it give it a whirl. What do you suggest on the 115 main? is that in range or should we bump it up one or two as well? I cannot say why the seals failed but they didn't seem hardned and were almost as pliable as the new ones. One theory(atleast for flywheel side) might be, upon disassembly of the flywheel side I found "strings" of RTV from the "sqeeze out" on the inside of the cover from trying to seal it. I found them even behind the plate! They weren't wrapped around the shaft but it doesn't mean they never were. That would wipe out a seal immediately! Could have just been from fatigue too, who knows, no smoking guns unfortunately. All and all the whole mess cost 66 bucks for seals, gasket, and flywheel puller ( I used a rubber strap wrench to hold the hold the clutch hub/housing ) saving 60 bucks. I've seen a few places on here people mention running 10w-40 in their crankcase? RYP recomends 75w is the 10w-40 seeming to help something? Thanks, Adam I think the 115 should be ok with the stock reeds, basically. I have to run a leaner main using the Boyesen reeds, but that is another story. On the flywheel cover thing, seems you can never really trust them to seal! The '06 and up have a better cover, but still may not seal. Even worse, will trap water and cause corrosion. Therefore is is recomended to pop off the cover after a powerwash to dry things and maybe apply a bit of WD40 or something. I drilled 3/16 holes in the cover bottoms of my first 5 bikes to at least let things vent and dry, along with periodic cleaning and spraying! This is debatable ,yet common amongst many on other brands as well. I will tell you that on the air filter front, I have used a screen mesh on the retainer for many years which at the very least seems to keep the large crap out! I take a scrap of coarse fiberglass reinforced plastic screen material, cut to size, then clean and scuff the top of the filter retainer with #180 grit. Apply a thin coating of 3M black w/s adhesive #08008, apply the screen material, and recoat the exterior of the screen to bed it in and seal, then let dry. Has never failed! Acts as a water deflector too! But do not rely upon it, as the majority of water and dirt wash through the filter is self induced upon washing the bike, it should ALWAYS be removed and the box inspected. (prevented) Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil king Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 I don't see the spec for the '06 but the '01 I just got run like crap with a #118 main. It came with a #126 main and a #33 pilot from the factory according to the sherco web specs. The '09 comes with a #120 main and a #33 pilot, the porting or reed block must be different. Anyway the largest jet I had was a #122 and it seems to work pretty well. The #33 pilot seems to be perfect. I started with the # theme so I didn't want to quit midstream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 I don't see the spec for the '06 but the '01 I just got run like crap with a #118 main. It came with a #126 main and a #33 pilot from the factory according to the sherco web specs. The '09 comes with a #120 main and a #33 pilot, the porting or reed block must be different. Anyway the largest jet I had was a #122 and it seems to work pretty well. The #33 pilot seems to be perfect. I started with the # theme so I didn't want to quit midstream. I cannot tell you exactly this has seemed to change over the years, other than fuel. I used to run a 33/122 set in the '10 and '03 bikes with no prob. I might have changed to the 35 pilot in '03, cannot recall. All seems to vary a bit from carb to carb as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 HTRDOUG- I got my self into one of the deals where you get a really cheap hot tub but you and your suckers... cough.. excuse me I mean friends have to come out and move it, well that is supposed to be happening tomorrow (wed.) night but if it falls through which i would say has atleast a 30% likelyhood of doing so, i would love to come out tomorrow with you guys! i should know wether or not the hot tub thing is going down by tomorrow afternoon and i'll give you a shout if not! Thanks for the invite i appreciate it. Zippy- Yeah I guess i'm going to stick the sherco out for a bit longer, unless the air filter gets the best of me ! I've got a few ideas rolling around about a re-design that hopefully would make life for me and the engine better! For the flywheel cover, that's what i was afraid of. I had done it that way and upon my disassembly of the flywheel side for the crank seals i noticed bits of RTV floating around in there that had broken off from the "sqeeze out" on the inside(even behind the windings). I'm concerned this may have had a part in crank seal failure on that side, unknown for sure but no sense in taking a chance. I assembled it this time by smoothing the RTV across the cover and letting it dry before installing. Essentialy making a rubber gasket. Who knows we'll give it a try and see Copemech- I'll order a 38 pilot no problem and it give it a whirl. What do you suggest on the 115 main? is that in range or should we bump it up one or two as well? I cannot say why the seals failed but they didn't seem hardned and were almost as pliable as the new ones. One theory(atleast for flywheel side) might be, upon disassembly of the flywheel side I found "strings" of RTV from the "sqeeze out" on the inside of the cover from trying to seal it. I found them even behind the plate! They weren't wrapped around the shaft but it doesn't mean they never were. That would wipe out a seal immediately! Could have just been from fatigue too, who knows, no smoking guns unfortunately. All and all the whole mess cost 66 bucks for seals, gasket, and flywheel puller ( I used a rubber strap wrench to hold the hold the clutch hub/housing ) saving 60 bucks. I've seen a few places on here people mention running 10w-40 in their crankcase? RYP recomends 75w is the 10w-40 seeming to help something? Thanks, Adam Oh, on the oil thing, the factory spec is 10-40, yet they do not say what! The motorcycle gear oils use a different spec rating, yet the 75wt is similar. I think Ryan sells the Maxima in an 80wt as well. All this gets into the grey area, as I have used 10-40 synthetic motor oil, the Maxima gear oil both. For a quicker clutch action, the thinner oils including ATF seem to work fine. Your pick! When running ATF, I use high quality synthetics such as the Royal Purple, Allison spec, or Mercedes spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikeadam Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Hey all!! Sorry to have taken soooooo long to update, but i haven't had time to ride and fully test the bike. Finally this past sunday I made it out to a trials event and i must say the sherco perfomed well! no issues at all, granted it was a nice, dry, 70 degree day but no issues with restarting at all! No oil lost (that i noticed) through the vent tube. I ran full synthetic 10w-40 without issue. Thanks everyone for all your tips, advice, and suggestions!! Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htrdoug Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 (edited) Guys,Adam won the Intermediate class in only his third trials ever! Newark,Oh results Sorry to call you out there Adam,but I thought it was cool! Edited November 10, 2009 by htrdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Guys,Adam won the Intermediate class in only his third trials ever!Newark,Oh results Sorry to call you out there Adam,but I thought it was cool! Sounds like he does know how to ride a bit! Hope he is happier now with a good running bike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh7 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 (edited) Way to hang in there and FIX the thing!!!! I've been there with my Gasser. Feels great to finally sort it out--eh? Congrats on your victory. Edited November 12, 2009 by uhoh7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikeadam Posted November 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 HAHAHAHAHA well looky there Doug did call me out!!! Thanks guys I appreciate the support!! Don't let that Doug fool ya he's, no slouch. Only been out three times as well and pulled in a 2nd for vintage! It is very nice to have the sherco up and running well, just hope all the problems are behind me, couldn't have done it without all the help from this forum!!! Thanks all!, you're a great help! On the note of the great help you've all been, does anyone know of any late season/winter events? I sure would like to compete again before april. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htrdoug Posted November 16, 2009 Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 (edited) HAHAHAHAHA well looky there Doug did call me out!!! Thanks guys I appreciate the support!! Don't let that Doug fool ya he's, no slouch. Only been out three times as well and pulled in a 2nd for vintage! It is very nice to have the sherco up and running well, just hope all the problems are behind me, couldn't have done it without all the help from this forum!!! Thanks all!, you're a great help! On the note of the great help you've all been, does anyone know of any late season/winter events? I sure would like to compete again before april. Man,what ya talkin' about,I won my class first trials ever.......cause I was the only entrant! BTW,the property I showed Bill Super on saturday likely has 50 sections easy,found tons more rocks and rock waterfall climbs... Edited November 16, 2009 by htrdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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