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Sherco Regulator


gilko
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Hello people, thanks for having me along it's nice that there is a site for like minded people.

I have been trialing now for 9 months, had plenty of thrills and too many spills already but it's a great way to hurt yourself !!! ha ha :wall:

My latest issue is that my regulator seems to have stopped working. If I wire the fan directly of a 12v battery it works, if I wire the thermostat directly bypassing the regulator it cuts in at about 85 degrees and starts the fan. So I am 99% sure that it's the regulator thats at fault.

Is there an alternative cheaper regulator I can fit than the Sherco one as I am strapped for cash at the moment ........... already had to repair a siezed crank 3 months ago, the piston stuck in the barrel and blew the rings 1 month ago and now it started overheating !!! :thumbup:

Please help if you can and thanks again from a newbie ^_^

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Is it not the stator supply to the regulator at fault?

The only type of regulator fault I've heard of doesn't display the same symptoms as yours,namely:-

The fan runs... but cuts out when the revs are raised from idle, meaning the fan supply from the regulator exceeds 12V (where a healthy regulator would 'cap' it at 12V).

Check you wiring connections (cheap) until someone like Copemech can chime in with better advice, he's sleeping in the back of the shop at the moment (you know the one in Pulp Fiction where Zed parks his chopper...literally ^_^ ).

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The fan works from a battery and the thermo switch also works from a battery so the regulator does sound suspect. Gilko says that the Thermo cuts in at 85 degrees Copemech when it is by passed using a battery power feed.

Is the earth lead tight?

Edited by John.B
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Oh, I think I understand what was done now.

Disconnect the regulator entirely(rectangular thingie) to see if the fan runs with the thermo switch bypassed(connected together). If not, replace the rectifier(squarish thingie). Ck for proper earthing on the rectifier first.

You kind of have to get the fact here that both fan and lights are run off the yellow wire from the source, which is AC power being provided fron the maggie. The fan requires a rectifier(square thing) in circuit to convert the voltage to DC,(which excess is shunted back to earth) and the lights could care less really!

The lights require a regulator(rectangular thing) to keep excess voltage from popping lamps and stuff(whisc is also shunted back to earth), so it must have some limit, the fan could care less really, it will just spin faster at a higher revs and voltage, to a point, not to overstress it, it still has its range, but at low speeds at idle, this would not be an issue for testing to see if the regulator was shorted and taking the entire system voltage down to unworkable levels.

And if now you have a better understanding and actually manage to fix something here you must now send beer money via paypal, an if none of this works out, you are pretty much knackered! There are no discounts provided here!

There you go, ^_^

Edited by copemech
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Hi lads - still trying to get used to the site so I didnt realise I had any replies, thanks.

Let me be a little clearer, I can normally diagnose through standard means but I am NO electronics man :wall:

I connected the fan terminals directly to a 12v battery and the fan run so I knew this was not a problem

I reconnected the fan and ran the bike. Then I shorted between the 2 thermostat terminals and the fan did not cut in so I knew that even if the stat was working it still did not pull the fan on

I then followed the yellow wire from the coil pack to the stat and thought "I aint messing around with the coli pack" :thumbup:

Then i followed the wire from the other terminal on the stat which is red and it went to the regulator.

I noticed that the fan wires came from the same regulator so the red must be putting power into the regulator which is activated when the stat comes on giving power to the fan ;)

Feeling brave I then unpluged the red wire from the regulator and bridged power from that to one of the fan terminals and with the bike running shorted between the stat terminals.

The fan came on ;) but I still needed to reach 85 degrees without bridging the stat to prove the stat was not at fault. It reached 80+ the fan kicked in and went off after cooling. I disconnected the direct live short to save doing any lasting damage.

Sorry for the long ass explaination but thats why I am sure it must be the regulator at fault ........ I hope you can confirm it ^_^

Many thanks - Matt

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Hi lads - still trying to get used to the site so I didnt realise I had any replies, thanks.

Let me be a little clearer, I can normally diagnose through standard means but I am NO electronics man :wall:

I connected the fan terminals directly to a 12v battery and the fan run so I knew this was not a problem

I reconnected the fan and ran the bike. Then I shorted between the 2 thermostat terminals and the fan did not cut in so I knew that even if the stat was working it still did not pull the fan on

I then followed the yellow wire from the coil pack to the stat and thought "I aint messing around with the coli pack" :thumbup:

Then i followed the wire from the other terminal on the stat which is red and it went to the regulator.

I noticed that the fan wires came from the same regulator so the red must be putting power into the regulator which is activated when the stat comes on giving power to the fan ;)

Feeling brave I then unpluged the red wire from the regulator and bridged power from that to one of the fan terminals and with the bike running shorted between the stat terminals.

The fan came on ;) but I still needed to reach 85 degrees without bridging the stat to prove the stat was not at fault. It reached 80+ the fan kicked in and went off after cooling. I disconnected the direct live short to save doing any lasting damage.

Sorry for the long ass explaination but thats why I am sure it must be the regulator at fault ........ I hope you can confirm it ^_^

Many thanks - Matt

Ok, so if you did disconnect the regulator thing (rectangular) and it workes and runs at normal speeds that increase with revs, then go for it!

They do not cost that much as I recall.

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We're getting confused now?

Regulator....rectifier?

One chops the top off the AC wave and makes it DC, the other stops an over-voltage....Well as long as the lad gets sorted :thumbup:

Sing along now: ''You sat tomayda, I sat tohmahtoe....let's call the whole thing owf...'' ^_^

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