cfraser Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Well, I guess I should have my head examined but I just purchased a 83' Italjet 350T Piuma. The bike was left back here in the States after a world round. It is complete with the scrutineers marks on both hubs, engine and steering head. The paint dabs are scribed with the number 26 (Rider No, 26). I need a few bits and larger pieces to bring it back to being respectable. The mud guards, white tank, side stand and factory kick lever. During the round, the rider broke the kicker shaft as everone is well aware was a huge problem with these bikes. The shaft has been replaced which is a mirical in itself thanks for a doner Italjet being parted out on ...."the bay." So if you know of anyone with the elusive "kermitt" parts, I'd be forever greatful. The good news...the SWM is in fantastic shape! Here are a few photo's. All the best, Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedktor Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Some interesting colour schemes! Nice bikes though, thanks for sharing. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big john Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 The tank has gone yellow due to the fuel effectively vapourising through the plastic! That is why yamaha genuine decals have a foil backing to stop the decals bubbling and peeling off. Not many Italjets around in one piece nowadays, most have been parted out as you call it states-side! The SWM looks neat! Big John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cfraser Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Thanks Steve and BigJohn. It seems like "parting-out" is all you see anymore back here in the States. I guess everyone figures that the parts are worth more than the bike. You are correct regarding the tank. The problem that I have besides the yellowing, the plastic has broken down and is seeping through. The tank is not damaged or split it's just no longer sound. I have been researching and hoping to find a sealent of sorts. I have had some luck in the past with sanding the tanks and then heating and polishing them. This tank is to far gone. I have tracked down a green one from an earlier year but I'd like to stay with the white. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_r Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 (edited) I have just purchased a product called "Blue Lightning" to try seal my 240 tank before painting. LINK. It gets great reviews from many VMX websites as a good solution to fuel seepage in Poly tanks. I have yet to try it, so I can't give you a full rundown. Hope that can be helpful to you. Cheers, Ben Edited November 25, 2009 by Ben_r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cfraser Posted November 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Thanks Ben and it's very helpful. You may have saved the day. I like the fact that it doesn't harden and remains flexible. I'm going to try and find a local supply store that carries it. When are you going to try it on your 240 tank? I wish you luck and please keep me posted on the details. Thanks a million..... Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_r Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 (edited) No problems Carl, Glad I could be of assistance. The process I will do is: 1. Drain tank 2. Flush tank with acetone to remove as much residue as possible 3. Flush with detergent/truck wash and warm water, the rinse with fresh clean water 4. Leave tank without lid in the sun for 2 weeks to help evaporate hydrocarbons from tank internals and with the plastic. 5. Flush again with acetone and leave dry 6. Flush with detergent/truck wash and warm water, the rinse with fresh clean water 7. Use Blue Lightning sealer as per instructions As for external painting, not quite sure yet. Since the inside of the tank will be sealed, painting should be a little easier - I have been told Sika 215 might be a good primer to adhere to the poly, but I am still investigating. Cheers, Ben Edited November 26, 2009 by Ben_r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cfraser Posted November 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Ben, Sounds like a good process for preperation. Here is a link I found on-line and it seems like a pretty good process for painting. let me know your thoughts. http://www.4strokes.com/tech/plastic_restore/ Cheers - Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_r Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Hi Carl, I did see that, sounds like a good a plan as any, except with the addition of the Blue Lightning. The common problem I read about is people who don't line the tank have problems with fumes leaking through and bubbling the paint. I have also read that you can use a hot air gun on the tank after you have sanded it. From finishing.com: There are two issues involved in painting polyethylene. One is to "activate" or "modify" the surface chemically to allow wet out and adhesion. In industry there are numerous methods used to treat the surface of polyethylene before bonding or painting. The best are too hazardous for a small shop or garage since the chemicals involved are actually dangerous. Reasonable bond strength - enough for paint - can be achieved with very light surface roughening using detergent water and fine wet-or-dry sand paper. This must be followed by careful flame treatment. An oxygen rich flame is best and the flame must not be allowed to melt or glaze the surface. Instead, the farthest tip of the flame only should contact the surface and then only for a brief fraction of a microsecond. The flame must be kept quickly moving at all times. Every square inch of the surface must be touched ever so briefly by the farthest tip of the flame in this way. After some cooling, the surface can be retreated if in doubt - but I would suggest running the flame in a cross direction to the initial hit. The surface can be tested with super clean distilled water. Apply a single drop with a very clean eye dropper. On an untreated tank, the drop will bead up like on a well waxed car. No adhesion. If properly surface modified, the drop will actual cling to the surface and spread out to be at least twice as wide as it is high. This gives adequate adhesion for most applications. I was thinking about trying this before I put the blue lightning in. Cheers, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cfraser Posted November 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Hi Ben, Thanks for the additional info. I'm going to place an order for the Blue Lighning in the morning. We must be reading the same info on the web. I'm going to try the heat gun method as well. When are you planning on starting the project? Do me a favor and take a few photo's along the way and keep me posted on the outcome. I will do the same as well. Wishing you the best, Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brt650 Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 I wouldn't knock the Italjet so quickly.I have one that I competed with this year .I have the Green 350t. The bike has a Yamaha ty350 front wheel and a reed valve fitted.I like the bike alot. Good luck with it. The SWM is a nice machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cfraser Posted November 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 I wouldn't knock the Italjet so quickly.I have one that I competed with this year .I have the Green 350t. The bike has a Yamaha ty350 front wheel and a reed valve fitted.I like the bike alot. Good luck with it.The SWM is a nice machine. Thanks for the reply. I've read some of your past posts and it sounds like your bike is well sorted and you are having fun with it. I like the Italjet and I'm not knocking it from the performance standpoint but rather from the lack of parts available. I have only seen two other Italjets here in the North East and I've been riding long before Italjet made trials bikes. I'm looking forward to a frame off restoration over the winter and I do plan on riding it when I'm done. The gas tank is my main issue. I have the original white tank and a green one that the previous owner found. Both tanks have really broken down over the last 25 plus years. The platic is split and seeping fuel. I'm going to repair the tanks differently with hope that one of the repairs works out. The first is what I have previously listed in this thread. The 2nd, is to repair the tank using a PE welding process. Let me know if you ever run accross any parts. I'm going to stock up on spares, especially the kicker shaft. Good luck with the Italjet and I hope your Bultaco project is progressing well. All the best - Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brt650 Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 Thanks for that Carl. I have just reassembled the bully engine.I found a pursang 250 crank and balanced it to suit the 350 engine. I haven't had it running yet.The new tank has been made a good friend is painting it along with my air cleaner. So hopefully I'll get to ride it before the new season starts here. I know what you mean about lack of parts for the Italjet. But I have had no problems in one season's worth of use. Also I have a spare engine as well. Good luck with the rebuild. Cheers Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedronicman Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 Try Steve Goode Motorcycles in the UK he has many Italjet parts - http://www.stevegoodemotorcycles.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majesty320 Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 4. Leave tank without lid in the sun for 2 weeks to help evaporate hydrocarbons from tank internals and with the plastic. Looks like thats us in the UK knackered then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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