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Yamaha Ty 125 Carb Problem (3 Topics Merged)


squid
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Hello all

I've just got me suckers on a diddy 1976 TY 125. She starts well and looks sweet. I've a few problems though ,one being difficult higher gear selection and the other,which I'd like to explain in this mail is the carb.

Iam into getting me tentacles dirty but Iam a little retarded as far as mechanical things but Iam making a determined effort to start learning now,today.

My Carb problem is this.

I turn on the fuel, get her going and fuel shoots out of both the plastic tubes that exit the lower body of the carb.

Sorry, iam not sure of these tubes actual name, Iam currently looking for a Haynes manuel so I can explain better in future posts.

Thats it.

Thanks.

Squid.

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Inside the carby is a device that controls the level of fuel in the bowl. It consists of a float and a valve. The float pushes the valve shut when the fuel is deep enough in the bowl. As fuel is used, the float goes down and lets more fuel in from the tank to the bowl, restoring the level.

For some reason that valve in your bike is not stopping the fuel from overfilling the bowl. You will need to pull it apart and work out why that is happening. It might be as simple as the valve being stuck open, or it might be something else.

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Thanks to both (feetupfun)&(anyoldiron).

That was speedy.

I'll take a peak in the float chamber this evening. Would be great if its just a little problem as Iam busting to get out over Christmas and get muddy.

Big Thanks to you two.

Squid.

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As you are new to the mechanics "bit" take the carb off the bike and then remove the float bowl. Check the inside of the bowl for any gummy (red) deposits and clean out well. If the deposits are white like calcium clean them off too. Push the little rod out that holds the float mechanism and the float valve will drop in your hand. It is about 3/8" and is usually a triangular rod with a pin head on the lower end and a sharp point on the top end to close the valve as the level fills. Any roughness or deposit on this end will not close the valve and the fuel WILL overflow. A light sanding of the top of this rod will normally fix it.

Tony

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Hello Again.

I dont like to be a pain but I'd just like to ask before I progress any further.

I've taken the carb off the bike and removed the 4 retaining screws in the 'sump' part of the carb. By just doing this should the sump part come away? I ask because it will not budge, I dont want to use any undue

force and damage the carb body. Iam mincing a bit here due to no knowledge. I feel a bit ashamed to of only got this far and needing to write another mail but I'd hate to break anything due to my ignorance.

I've got to wait a week for my Haynes manual to arrive,impatient I know but I hav'nt been out for over 2 weeks on her and Iam getting the shakes.

Regards to all.

Squid.

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Are you just wanting to get the bottom of the carb off? From memory they have a rubber O ring type of gasket also from memory it should now come off for you. Now for my selfish bit..Can I assume Salon de Provence is in France if youare there you may be able to help me , what are reqts and cost of FFM licence or one event licences ..want to do 4 days Geuret & 3 days of Aveyron next year.

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Hello Chewy.

Thanks for that bit of info.

Yes Iam in france, a little bit further down from where your wanting to be. I'll check it out and let you know whats needed. Maybe buy next year I'll be up to scratch to have a mooch up there too.

I'll drop you a line as soon as I've got something.

Warm Regards.

Squid.

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Squid,

Another common problem with an old carb! .....and one that hasn't had much attention, DO NOT USE THE BLADE OF A SCREWDRIVER to pry apart! Using a soft hammer or the plastic end of the screwdriver you were thinking of using as a pry bar gently tap around the bowl and the two parts will come undone. Assuming you have already removed the slide, cable etc once apart you will also need to blow through all orifices when you have it relatively clean. Make sure to clean the pilot jet and choke system. When you look through the pilot jet it will look like there is a "S" in it but that is supposed to be there!........ and never ever use any silicone anywhere near a carb.

Tony

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Thanks to Tony, the soft tapping got the float chamber body off. I was surprised it seemed quite fresh in there. I cleaned out as recommended,and blew compressed air in the holes. I didn't remove any jets beside the one under the float, which did have a little chalkyish buildup on its sides.I gave that a very gentle clean and reassembled ,switched me fuel on and the floodings stopped. Great.

Tried to start her though, nothing at all. Checked me plug and its wet and black. Wiped it and its the good brown underneath .

Does this bring anything to mind.

I've 7 day's to wait till me Haynes manual arrives so if it get too technical I'll have to wait till then.

Thanks

Squid.

Edited by Andy
3 Topics merged as all relate to same issue
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Squid,

I'm assuming you have sparks, or know how to quick test? Lay the plug on the fins of the head and hand crank the engine, should be a rich blue spark. Make sure you have the correct plug and the gap is 22thou, or somewhere close. Not sure what your starting technique is but with the baby carb, zero throttle movement and full choke. As it starts to warm up remove the choke. If it won't start then normally the choke system is plugged so open the choke and blow c.air through the angled pipe. If it will only run on the choke then the pilot will be blocked again! Can sometimes take 2 or 3 cleanings to get all the muck out of the carb even though you think you have it all!

Tony

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Gday, Tony is correct with his technique, but at the moment your bike will be heavily flooded in the engine from the fuel leaking past the float valve. You need to dry off the plug, give it a few kicks with the plug out -

Be careful - make sure the plug and lead are not anywhere that a spark can light the fuel/air coming out of the plug hole. It might pay to hold the kill switch in while doing this.

Refit the plug and with no choke and full throttle try to start it. If that is no good after 3 or 4 kicks, remove the plug and repeat this procedure until the bike starts.

Cheers,

Stork

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