deputy dawg Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Haveing just bought a rev3 and experiencing clutch drag and impossible to feather the clutch, This thread is a godsend 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0007 Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 By the way, just cleaned all the crud from between the pads on the fibre plates on my Evo The result is a clutch that has substantially less drag The clutch operation was OK but the bike would not shift, big improvement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deputy dawg Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Just done this and i now have a useable clutch owe you a cold one Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted March 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 Everybody says that. At some point I'll see you guys and not be sober for a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brenin Posted March 6, 2013 Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 Guys, i have recently got an 08 Rev 3 250. There is lots I like about it, but i do have all the symptoms of 'Beta clutch drag'. I am going to perform the clutch mod as detailed in this post, but I have a couple of points id like help with:- The bike is one owner and i believe on its original clutch. I wasny told it had been replaced at point of sale. There isnt any clutch slip etc at the moment, so is it worht me just buying a new set of friction plates and modding them straight from the box? That way they are clean and easy to work on in spare moments. Plus if its nice out, I can go and play in the quarry! If so, what brand of plates should i order? Are they all equal? Should i go direct to Beta UK, or are pattern/after market parts better in price or performance? As I will have to open the clutch cover, is it just one gasket I need to order? And will it dry seal ok, or will i need sealant? I know they may seem trivial questions, but with limited play time, id like to get everything I need and just not fall at a simple hurdle when i havnt got the correct parts. Prior Preparation and Planning Prevents P&*^ Poor Performance....i hope! Also, my bike has Grimeca brake and clutch master cylinders, am i right in thinking that AJP type wont fit? many thanks Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micktw Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Many thanks for this, after a weekend of dragging clutch and leaking fuel its time to give my new (old) Rev 3 a bithday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterschnecke Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 This is just amazing. Finally my beta no longer jumps 1 meter forwards when I shift from neutral into first. I guess my clutch was in a very bad shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0007 Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Hi Peter, curious what oil have you been using in your bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterschnecke Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 @0007: I use Motul Transoil Expert 10W40. But I only got the bike a year ago so I have no Idea what the previous owner had been using. The Motul Oil reduced the clutch drag a lot. With the old unknown oil I was able to ride up some hills without even releasing the clutch, the Motul Oil made it a lot better. But the bike would still jump a meter forward when shifting from neutral into first. While working on the clutch I obviously changed the transmission oil and It still looked very god. But otherwise the Motul was only one year and 500km in my bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0007 Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 I'm thinking that some of what is between the fibers is glue but some or lots of it is buildup from wrong trans oil Maybe some lubes have a low detergent level? Seems strange that I have never seen this crud on fibre plates on Japanese bikes Maybe the clutch runs pretty dry and because it doesn't spin very fast it doesn't clean itself? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted April 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 It's glue. It's not just between the fiber pads. It's on the tabs and splashed all over some of the plates. Brand new plates that never saw the inside of a transmission had the same goop all over them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneal121 Posted May 19, 2013 Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 Ive just done Dan's mod to my Beta Techno And i was amazed on how much glue build up that there was on the fibre plates. And while i was in there i changed the oil for rock oil lite gear oil and the results are great. I can now get neutral and no drag and no jumping when put into gear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shyted Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 (edited) Got to tell you this mod works on GasGas and Fantic too . I twigged on after i bought a new clutch plate set for my old Fantic .Looks like the plates,certainly on European trials bikes ,that they could all come from the same manufacturer as the same adhesion method seems to be used . That's sheer speculation ,but the GasGas was dragging like hell until i carried out the mod and switched to semi-synthetic 5w 30. Bye bye problem . Ted Edited May 24, 2013 by shyted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark sidey Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Hi Ralph Sidey here. I scraped the goo out from between the plates on my '12 300 Factory and it made little difference. Dunno why everyone is using files, a hacksaw blade worked fine for me. They cut well. But after I fitted the astonishing Sidey "red pipe" expansion chamber the clutch was easy to slip in 5th and 6th gear. I found that out at the Kaikoura 6 day trial, which everyone should have gone to because it was an ABSOLUTE RIPPER! Actually anyone who wants more power from an Evo 300 is a maniac, but I know how to get quite a bit now. When will we see you at a trial again? Jokerr: There's no international incident. Scotland is, after all, the host of the second best 6-day trial in the world! Gotta put you straight though: most Kiwis eat Weetbix for breakfast. Not Weet a Bix, but the real antipodean answer to porridge; Weetbix! I think Ralph must have had about 8 to do his clutch in 2 1/2 though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saluki Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 I'm new to trials and am looking to find a good starter bike. Came across a 2001 (or maybe it's a 2002?) Beta 270. The fellow selling sent a short video showing him starting it on 2nd kick from cold after bike had been sitting since mid-June (this according to owner). However, as soon as he let out the clutch, engine stalled. Owner made the comment that "the clutch REALLY needs to warm up before it releases well. I will never like a Beta clutch, "they all do that"" ". I gather that the mods described in this "Beta Clutch Fix" Thread is exactly what this bike need, yes? So, is this Beta a good starter bike, even with the "sticky clutch"? Here's a pic of the Beta and a link to the short video (hope I'm not overstepping the bounds here posting a link - ED can delete if I am). Cheers, http://s1089.photobu...html?sort=3&o=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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