dan williams Posted March 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 (edited) Too be honest I didn’t design the spacers. IKB did but I haven’t seen him on here for a bit. Edited March 19, 2018 by dan williams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe cool Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Hey Dan, Are the clutch spacers still available ? Also would the Sureflex clutch need the same fix as the stock clutch ? Thanks much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heffergm Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 When I had a Beta some years ago I bought a surflex clutch to see if it was in any better shape than the stock clutch. The short answer is it wasn't... it needed the same cleanup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe cool Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Thanks for heads up...guess I finally need to clean up the stock clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, joe cool said: Hey Dan, Are the clutch spacers still available ? Also would the Sureflex clutch need the same fix as the stock clutch ? Thanks much Yeah I got tired of posting them out so I gave a bunch to Stewie at a certain trials shop that doesn’t advertise here (but should). PM me for details if you need more specific info. I don’t wish to run afoul of the rules. Edited March 19, 2018 by dan williams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe cool Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 Dan, I sent you a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brackenbury Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 Hi guys I am new to this forum so bear with me please. I just got a 2018 300 4T factory and while the clutch does not snatch it could really do with a softer feed. Just wondering if I want to pull a new bike down and give this upgrade a shot. I have read most of this thread but did not see any comments on the Factory 300 4T. And I do have all the right tools (including me , yes I can be a tool now and then ) as I have been in my trade for 58 years now (Goldsmith ;-) ) and in advance Thanks for your time with this old fart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 Hi Eric, Welcome to the clutch thread. The 4T is a slightly different beast as it has all six of the thicker (3mm) fiber plates. I looked at your parts manual and it looks like they use all standard steel plates even for the factory and the basket is aluminum. Some of the earlier "factory" clutches on different models had steel baskets and three oddball steels. Beta is still screwing around with the configurations so it's always a mystery what's going to be in a clutch pack year to year model to model. The glue cleanup is not a big necessity on the newer bikes but the tab polish is still a good way to smooth out the engagement. You should have the stepped spacers on your clutch so you might be able to turn them around for a lighter pull as with the steps facing in they reduce preload on the clutch springs by 1.5mm. I can tell you where to get a set of the 3mm spacers I had made if you PM me. On the bars make sure your lever perches are moved in towards the middle for more leverage. This also cuts down on snapped levers. Also make sure the pivot for the lever is lubed and tightened properly. It may not seem like a big deal but over the course of a long trials it makes a difference. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brackenbury Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, dan williams said: Hi Eric, Welcome to the clutch thread. The 4T is a slightly different beast as it has all six of the thicker (3mm) fiber plates. I looked at your parts manual and it looks like they use all standard steel plates even for the factory and the basket is aluminum. Some of the earlier "factory" clutches on different models had steel baskets and three oddball steels. Beta is still screwing around with the configurations so it's always a mystery what's going to be in a clutch pack year to year model to model. The glue cleanup is not a big necessity on the newer bikes but the tab polish is still a good way to smooth out the engagement. You should have the stepped spacers on your clutch so you might be able to turn them around for a lighter pull as with the steps facing in they reduce preload on the clutch springs by 1.5mm. I can tell you where to get a set of the 3mm spacers I had made if you PM me. On the bars make sure your lever perches are moved in towards the middle for more leverage. This also cuts down on snapped levers. Also make sure the pivot for the lever is lubed and tightened properly. It may not seem like a big deal but over the course of a long trials it makes a difference. Hi Dan, thanks for this. As yet I have not pulled the cover, wanted to do some research first. I am going to do the new plates for my 390 RR first and see how that goes, then tackle the 4T plates with some experienced gained. The spacers should not a be a problem If I need them as I have a lathe and can turn them to my needs. Being a tradesperson I can ( should be able ) do a reasonably precise job on the tabs and with an Aluminum basket ( on the 390 too ) It should make it last longer not being worn by rough tabs. I could also polish them with tripoli on a felt pad with my flex shaft if that will be of benefit, and it should I hope. My 250 4t and 250 2T had very gentle release on the clutch but both were used bikes so maybe the 4T being new needs to run in a bit ? I also am looking into 4T oils as that will have a bearing on this issue probably. It may be a week or two but I will report back on the results and try to take images of the tabs before installing the plates. On the bars I have short levers in as far as i am comfortable with a one finger pull, they have lube ;-). Edited June 30, 2018 by Eric Brackenbury 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brackenbury Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 On 30/06/2018 at 3:23 PM, Eric Brackenbury said: Hi Dan, thanks for this. As yet I have not pulled the cover, wanted to do some research first. I am going to do the new plates for my 390 RR first and see how that goes, then tackle the 4T plates with some experienced gained. The spacers should not a be a problem If I need them as I have a lathe and can turn them to my needs. Being a tradesperson I can ( should be able ) do a reasonably precise job on the tabs and with an Aluminum basket ( on the 390 too ) It should make it last longer not being worn by rough tabs. I could also polish them with tripoli on a felt pad with my flex shaft if that will be of benefit, and it should I hope. My 250 4t and 250 2T had very gentle release on the clutch but both were used bikes so maybe the 4T being new needs to run in a bit ? I also am looking into 4T oils as that will have a bearing on this issue probably. It may be a week or two but I will report back on the results and try to take images of the tabs before installing the plates. On the bars I have short levers in as far as i am comfortable with a one finger pull, they have lube ;-). Hi guys I am working on the tabs and finding the best combination of tools for me. I have attached an image with before and after plates, only 4 more plates to do :-)The materials I used, first on a flex shaft at 18,000 rpm a Moore's fine Adalox disc, next a hand buff with Norton P800 Adalox sheet, then a hand buff with 4/0 emery polishing paper. The glue on the plates is not a big issue with these plates from PRO-X for my 390, just a few bubbles of glue here and there which I removed with a flat file I ground to fit between the pads. So far so good now to get the other 4 plates done and then clean them before the install. Anyone know what brand are in the Factory 300's ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted July 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 Advige is what was stamped on them years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted July 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 Correction Adige and I found this. http://www.adige.eu/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brackenbury Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 1 hour ago, dan williams said: Correction Adige and I found this. http://www.adige.eu/ Thanks Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snorky29 Posted July 17, 2018 Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 Hi, fantastic read and clear instructions.....but can i ask for some clear instructions regarding "leaving a couple of springs out" for a lighter pull is there a clear quantity or just trial and error, is there any specific pattern to removal of the springs why i ask is my clutch is operating fine (no cold stick or snagging) but i would like a lighter pull, so can i remove some springs with out any "mods Regards Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 Removing springs is what I used to do but then I’m an old guy riding bunny sections. Some of our more talented friends found that removing springs led to clutch slippage so it isn’t a panacea. I had spacers made according to a design by forum member IKB which do something similar without leaving parts out. PM me for details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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