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The Beta Clutch Fix


dan williams
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7 hours ago, tshock250 said:

I had a 2013 evo with clutch drag that got worse the hotter it got, cleaned the glue from the plates, switched to nano-trans no different. Only got better when i installed a whole new clutch from an old Techno engine that was lying around the garage.

To be honest my 2018 has an old clutch pack. I just bought a 2020 factory that looks like it was never ridden so I’ll have to see what it looks like inside.

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  • 1 month later...

Ooooh the 2020 Factory has a light-switch clutch and a bit of delay when trying to release the clutch. Also the pull is heavy. I wanted to try before I modify and I'm not surprised. Needs the carbon reeds too as it's easier to stall. Let the fettling begin!

 

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  • 1 month later...

Fettling done for now. Six thin (2.7mm) plates with the fix, 3mm offset washers and blasted the steels with fine aluminum oxide. Tried the bike and had massive clutch slip. Reduced the spacer washers on the throwout bearing about half a mm and all is well. Behaves pretty much like every other clutch I’ve done the fix to.

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1 hour ago, dan williams said:

Fettling done for now. Six thin (2.7mm) plates with the fix, 3mm offset washers and blasted the steels with fine aluminum oxide. Tried the bike and had massive clutch slip. Reduced the spacer washers on the throwout bearing about half a mm and all is well. Behaves pretty much like every other clutch I’ve done the fix to.

What are you running for final gearing Dan? Having tried 9/43 gearing with good results on my Evo 300, I'm now running 10/48 and finding 2nd gear very adequate for plonking around in sections with my 20 Evo 300 Factory. Clutch is also working very well.

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On the 2018 I added two teeth to the rear and liked it very much. 10/44 I think but I’ll have to look. The 2020 is still stock. Messing up my already dodgy timing but I’ll try to get used to it. I might go for the lower gearing later. 

Edited by dan williams
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hiya. People are still finding this thread.  Light switch to normal after mod. Thanks.  I've fettled and modified all sorts of clutches,  but never considered the fingers on the plates would be as touchy as the Beta ones.  2008 Rev Btw.

 

Thanks. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
 
 
 
  • 7 months later...

Hi. Bought a 97 evo 250 (my first trials bike) recently and the clutch is fairly ineffective and the bike takes off as soon as first is selected. I have replaced the master as it looked rather shoddy (admittedly with a cheap ebay special) and replaced the braided line and banjo bolt and bled the system. Still having no joy. Before I go about replacing/rebuilding the slave (which are fairly expensive) am I actually fighting against an inherent fault in the clutch which the above fix could solve. Or am I right in thinking that as it is almost completely ineffective it is likely a faulty slave. Cheers.

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There is an inherent sticky problem with the Beta clutch which the fix fixes but before you start replacing stuff you need to make sure the actuator mechanism is actually doing what it's supposed to. All it does is move a pressure plat approximately 1.2mm. Put the bike on its side and pull the clutch pack cover (the round one) off. Be careful not to damage the piddly little round O-Ring gasket. Now with your finger on the pressure plate pull the clutch lever and make sure the pressure plate moves. If it does good. The fix will probably help you. If it doesn't the problem is in the hydraulics or somebody left the ball bearing out of the throw-out assembly. A fairly common mistake.

'97 is a Beta Techno. The EVO model didn't come out until '09

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 The older bikes the plates would stick every morning. Once unstuck the bike worked fine all day. You just had to warm them up, maybe ride a few minutes with the clutch in. You might be chasing your tail, being that was normal. I loved my '97. Still got Dougies pic on the wall.

20230113_131951.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I bought a 2012 Evo 250, pretty happy with it once I tightened all the bolts and sorted the stand out. 

Not at all impressed with the clutch though, the only thing it did consistently was drag a bit. So after reading about the fix I ordered a set of surflex fibres and went through the very monotonous task of cleaning them up. When I took the clutch apart I remembered an old mx trick and drilled holes through the inner hub, two holes, one hole then none on successive teeth. We always reckoned it improved oil flow through the clutch, might be a myth but worth a go. 

When I reassembled the clutch, after soaking the fibres of course, I was very careful setting up the free play on the pressure plate, getting it as minimal as I could. I then used only 4 springs to get a lighter pull. 

I should point out I'm a crap Trials rider and the clutch action is the very least of my problems. However the difference is night and day better, I can even select neutral easily now. The bite is much smoother and the same every time. Well worth the mind numbing task of cleaning up the plates and a bit more time on the other stuff. 

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  • 3 months later...

Hi guys

Evo250 2009

I've got a query about the evo clutch. Mine was cold sticking really badly, bike is new to me. It was OK while riding, but if you stopped and turned off, 3 minutes later it was stuck again. 

I've done the clutch fix this afternoon, cleaned out the glue, tidied the ends of the friction plate tabs, and re assembled with fresh oil. And I've left out 2 springs. 

All working perfectly now, I can even find neutral! 

When it was apart I measured the plates and I have 6 2.7mm friction plates. From what I've read I was expecting at least 1 3mm plate, possibly 2. Is this an issue? Apart from not sticking, the clutch bite is now a lot higher (in the last 3rd of travel) before it was all the way from fully in. 

If that's normal I'll just get used to it. 

Thanks

Matt

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Give the hydraulics a bit of time to settle in before you adjust. Six 2.7 plates is the older configuration and the one I prefer. You can get some adjustment of the bite point by shimming the thrust washer on the throwout bearing but you might just need to back the lever adjuster of a bit. 

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