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Stainless Steel Wheel Bearings


fred
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hi mate stainless steel is softer than normal wheel bearings as the steel they use is high grade steel which they case harden i would never buy any stainless screws to put on my engine they may look pretty but they are so much softer than normal screw i would be afried if i use a allen key in them they could round the head and would have to be drilled out

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Basically, even if these bearings offer stainless outer shields, I see little relevance in trials use. The bearing material itself is still steel.

As far as stainless screws go, they are fine under normal use such and will not corrode. Not recommended for high stress situations. Never any problems when used properly. I use them in many applications such as side covers on the motor, normal holding of other bits. Never a problem as the strength is as good as your basic bolt or screw for the most part.

An example might be your axle bolt or nut made of ali! Nowhere near as strong as stainless, but much lighter! :rolleyes:

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Basically, even if these bearings offer stainless outer shields, I see little relevance in trials use. The bearing material itself is still steel.

As far as stainless screws go, they are fine under normal use such and will not corrode. Not recommended for high stress situations. Never any problems when used properly. I use them in many applications such as side covers on the motor, normal holding of other bits. Never a problem as the strength is as good as your basic bolt or screw for the most part.

An example might be your axle bolt or nut made of ali! Nowhere near as strong as stainless, but much lighter! :rolleyes:

....or your fork pinch bolts..... :rolleyes:

12.9 Grade hi tensile screws and bolts seem to be the thing for hi stress ares (thanks Wayne.. :thumbup: ) and are not staggeringly expensive either. UNBRAKO seems to be the brand to use, just got myself a pile of them.

I'm maybe bucking the trend here but I do use these bearings. Got two boxes of ten from ebay last year for less than

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....or your fork pinch bolts..... :rolleyes:

12.9 Grade hi tensile screws and bolts seem to be the thing for hi stress ares (thanks Wayne.. :rolleyes: ) and are not staggeringly expensive either. UNBRAKO seems to be the brand to use, just got myself a pile of them.

I'm maybe bucking the trend here but I do use these bearings. Got two boxes of ten from ebay last year for less than

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I think he said he bought them on the cheap! Lifetime supply!

Did you get that grub out of your fork matey? :rolleyes:

Tis sorted yes, wonderful bloke who is chairman of our club and just happens to own a major engineering company got it done for me....he's a wonderful bloke..!! decent capscrews in the now, 12.9 grade Unbrako's with copperslip...no more silly mistakes :rolleyes:

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Tis sorted yes, wonderful bloke who is chairman of our club and just happens to own a major engineering company got it done for me....he's a wonderful bloke..!! decent capscrews in the now, 12.9 grade Unbrako's with copperslip...no more silly mistakes :rolleyes:

Good you got it out!

Now, as we are on te General Forum, I shall post you all up with a little tidbit! To wit, I do doo hope many shall heed!

It is not the strength of the bolt that matters in most general situations, but the treatment to prevent siezing by corrosion that makes the big difference.

In a situation that you allow a high strength bolt to sieze up due to corrosion, it will only require you a bit more torque to twist the head off!

The use and application of some type grease or anti-sieze on things is a penny worth a pound in prevention, yet still, one it well advised to MOVE things on occasion. Loosten and re torque to keep things moving!

Coat those axle shafts with lube! Along with the swingarm shaft! Bad things happen when these things have set too long and corrosion sets in! Once it does, you may have (or already have ) some major problems.

:rolleyes:

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