Oily Rev 3

[foulkesy]

Hi All, Thanks for the replies to my recent posts.

I am getting somewhere to getting her running well. Rectifier replaced fan, and cooling system now all good.

Starting!! She kicks back like a mule on occasions.

When I looked at the Bike it was advertised as a 2003...It was clearly a 2000 Rev 3.

The guy I bought her from said he had relpaced the plug, changed oil and replaced filter...He had.

The only thing is that it looks as if he has installed a 2003 filter rather than a 2000.

When I inspected it, clearly it is not a good fit, it looks as if a bit of sponge has been stuffed in the airbox and clearly clogging the air intake!!

I have ordered a new one to suit the year from trials Bits.

Now do you think that besides this helping cure the oily plug and exhaust, it will take away some of the Kick back i am getting.

Or do I need to look elswhere for possible problems, and as a matter of precaution do you think I need to de-coke.

I also am encountering a very high pitched pinging at the top end of the engine, cant say its a knock as such, more a rattle, and it seems to be intermitent??

Also for info I am using 70:1 mix fully synthetic

Any advise greatly recieved.

Dave

Edited January 31, 2010 by foulkesy

[matt_urban]

make sure it has right plug in it and gap is correct myn back fires when i kick it wrong some times but your might just be running to rich try cleaning out the carb then playing with the mix screw and idle screw

[feetdown]

First things first check you have the right plug in, Beta recommend the NGK BP7ES this is far to cold I run a BP5ES which is what Lampkin recommends if you really want to splash out BPR5ES but I have noticed no difference other than in price,

Then sorting out your airfilter would be a high priority, the 2000-01 rev's have the filter on the side (which I assume is where yours is) this is fundamentally flawed its virtually impossible to seal and just fills up with muck and even in shallow streams manages to suck water through, Way back in 2004 I bought a airbox the subframe rails and rear fender to move it up top (the mount on your silencer will have to be moved and about a mm of material removed from the r/h subfame rail to clear the shock) Pricey! but well worth the expense.

Can we have a bit more info on your top end rattle ie from cold or only when hot, maybe a topend rebuild is in order (it is 10 years old) rings, gudgen pin, circlips and gaskets

And are you sure its not clutch rattle, you say its intermittent does it rattle only with the clutch pulled in,

The kickback could be a worn spring on the idle gear, on top of the clutch side case right above the kickstart shaft there is a bolt check its tight (just nipped don't wrench it!) if it is tight, pull the case off remove the kickstart and gearshift and water pump hose Then lay the bike on its side to save draining the oil, you will have to release the sump plate I only remove the rear bolts and wedge it wide enough with a wooden wedge,

remove the idler gear and study it to see how it works (Its simple enough but would take a fair bit to explain) and then just wind it on a touch to tension the spring a little more,

You will have to replace the inner gasket, and depending on how flush you feel may want to take the opportunity to replace the gear/kickstart shaft seals and maybe over haul your water pump

Edited January 31, 2010 by FeetDown

[liviob]

Then sorting out your airfilter would be a high priority, the 2000-01 rev's have the filter on the side (which I assume is where yours is) this is fundamentally flawed its virtually impossible to seal and just fills up with muck and even in shallow streams manages to suck water through, Way back in 2004 I bought a airbox the subframe rails and rear fender to move it up top (the mount on your silencer will have to be moved and about a mm of material removed from the r/h subfame rail to clear the shock) Pricey! but well worth the expense.

What year subfraime and airbox did you use too replace the 2000-2001 setup with. Is one year more preferable than another?

Edited February 1, 2010 by Liviob

[foulkesy]

First things first check you have the right plug in, Beta recommend the NGK BP7ES this is far to cold I run a BP5ES which is what Lampkin recommends if you really want to splash out BPR5ES but I have noticed no difference other than in price,

Then sorting out your airfilter would be a high priority, the 2000-01 rev's have the filter on the side (which I assume is where yours is) this is fundamentally flawed its virtually impossible to seal and just fills up with muck and even in shallow streams manages to suck water through, Way back in 2004 I bought a airbox the subframe rails and rear fender to move it up top (the mount on your silencer will have to be moved and about a mm of material removed from the r/h subfame rail to clear the shock) Pricey! but well worth the expense.

Can we have a bit more info on your top end rattle ie from cold or only when hot, maybe a topend rebuild is in order (it is 10 years old) rings, gudgen pin, circlips and gaskets

And are you sure its not clutch rattle, you say its intermittent does it rattle only with the clutch pulled in,

The kickback could be a worn spring on the idle gear, on top of the clutch side case right above the kickstart shaft there is a bolt check its tight (just nipped don't wrench it!) if it is tight, pull the case off remove the kickstart and gearshift and water pump hose Then lay the bike on its side to save draining the oil, you will have to release the sump plate I only remove the rear bolts and wedge it wide enough with a wooden wedge,

remove the idler gear and study it to see how it works (Its simple enough but would take a fair bit to explain) and then just wind it on a touch to tension the spring a little more,

You will have to replace the inner gasket, and depending on how flush you feel may want to take the opportunity to replace the gear/kickstart shaft seals and maybe over haul your water pump

Thanks

It did have a BP5 I have changed to a BP7 I got from a Beta dealer, what gap do you use?

One step at a time on this I think.

Also for info, the rattle seems to have appeared & got worse after I freed of a stuck on clutch (held lever in and ran hot for 20 mins or so), the bike had stood for 3 years and only been started a handfull of times, I did not strip the clutch out and do the plate mod but changed the oil to ATF. She still drags a little but nothing that effects my riding i will carry the plate mod out soon.

[feetdown]

Plug gap 0.5 for BP5ES

My clutch rattles something horrible, but as soon as I let the lever go all's well, never bothered me

[feetdown]

What year subfraime and airbox did you use too replace the 2000-2001 setup with. Is one year more preferable than another?

I used 2004 airbox, subframe rails,fender, and airfilter clamp, but have since bolted on a 2006 fender just to modernise the look, I believe any year up to 2008 will fit, phone Lampkins he will sort you out,

[foulkesy]

Wrong Air Filter.

Sheared Key.

She now runs Loverly

Thanks to My mate Simmsy and Barry AB motorcycles Merthyr for the advise and tools