ticket2ride Posted March 28, 2010 Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 Chaps, What a nightmare day! Firstly, the rear brake locks on when it warms up!! (it wasn't working too well so threw new pads in, now thinking it's a cylinder thing as there isn't much piston/pad movement either!!)... So, loosened the brake off completely...next section, mid way through....engine dies! Tried new plug - no joy... Checked again, no spark at all!! Any thoughts/experiences on this before I go for the guessing game!! Are there any known issues with the stator on the Evo's? Or, any other electrical gremlins? Was working fine prior, no performance issues at all.... AAggggghhhhh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordi Posted March 28, 2010 Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 Always check the kill switch first if theres no spark. Not the best bit of kit on a Beta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jokerr Posted March 28, 2010 Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 yep check kill switch. there prone to not returning fully out. give it a pull, but it will fail sooner or later. check that your rear brake has free play at the pedal piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianwilson Posted March 28, 2010 Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 (edited) Its easy to isolate the kill switch you just remove the right hand plastic tank panel and disconnect the kill switch there. I have had a problem with the brake on my evo.I lost the small return spring from the rear brake pedal and didn't notice. Its only a lightweight spring but is enough to stop the brake rubbing a bit. I noticed mine dragging and starting to nip up. I let it cool down and all was fine after replacing the spring. Edited March 28, 2010 by ianwilson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticket2ride Posted March 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 ....thanks chaps.... tried to isolate the kill switch.....it's a yam one and didn't make any difference... There's just absolutely nothing there....spark wise.... Checked for that spring and it's all as should be.....it feels like the piston in the cylinder isn't moving very far or returning.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedee Posted March 28, 2010 Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 Hi i had the problem with the rear brake, the piston and seals are too gooder fit there for not allowing the pistons to return. Buy a new seal kit and you will need some fine grade emery cloth and evenally sand the inside of the seal away just enough to allow the piston to slide in and out easier. I had to do this about two months ago to mine and its never been so good!! As for the engine mine kept cutting out and bogging down at low revs, I replaced the little jet in the card that is attached to the floats. The little rubber end gets stuck shut there for not allowing fuel to pass through they are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticket2ride Posted March 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 thedee.... thanks for the brake advice chat....I'll speak to Lampkins tomorrow and get one ordered....! Re. the float jet/card - which part do you mean?.....although, it's an electrical fault this time, I did/do have a bogging issue too...!! http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams123/exppwk.gif Is the exploded view of the PWK......which part do you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stork955 Posted March 28, 2010 Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 (edited) Gday, regards the brake issue - dont sand anything! Check that there is freeplay between the piston and the pushrod first. This is absolutely vital. 1 mm is enough. You should be able to move the pedal a small amount before contacting the piston. After that, check that the pistons in the caliper are free to return - try pushing them back into the caliper with a suitable tool like a small G-clamp. Dont force them with great pressure though. This will also cause fluid to be pushed out of the reservior, so be prepared for that - it may pay to drain the fluid until it is almost empty first. If this is no good, you need to strip and clean the calipers and seals inside. This is probably as far as you need to go, as your bike is no older that 1 year (I assume you have a 2009). Ignition - You have already disconnected the kill switch so that is eliminated. I assume you have also tried it with a brand new plug, if not do this first. Check all wiring for corrosion, damage etc. Do this very carefully! Next checks - you need a multimeter, any one will do. Set it to OHMS - resistance. At the coil, Measure between the terminal from the CDI and up inside the spark plug boot. You should see around 1000 -200 Ohms. Much more or less is no good. This will check the secondary side of the coil and the plug cap. If this is no good, have a good look for problems in the cap, and if necessary remove it and re-measure. If OK check between the same terminal and the metal surround of the coil. You should see 2 ohms or so. This checks the primary side of the coil. Check resistance between the Brown wire at the CDI connector and a good clean and bright point on the frame. You see 0 ohms. This checks the CDI grounding and wire. If OK, remove the spark plug and hook one lead to the engine, somewhere that is clean and bright and the other to the Blue wire going in to the CDI. (Be careful you dont damage the little connectors inside). There should be no circuit at all. Switch the meter to AC volts, and use a 400 volt scale if your meter does this, and connect the other terminal to the Red wire to the CDI. Kick the engine over, you should see around 70 volts or better briefly as the engine turns. This checks the Source Coil. If this is OK, connect the meter leads to the Black and White CDI wires. Kick the engine over. You should see the meter needle flick to around 1 volt (you may need to set the meter to a low scale) as the motor turns. This checks the pulser coil. If all these checks are OK, the CDI unit is at fault. I will double check these measurements on my own bike (2010 250 Evo) later today and post the results, but these figures should get you started. Cheers, Stork. Edited March 28, 2010 by Stork955 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_scorpa3 Posted March 28, 2010 Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 Hi i had the problem with the rear brake, the piston and seals are too gooder fit there for not allowing the pistons to return. Buy a new seal kit and you will need some fine grade emery cloth and evenally sand the inside of the seal away just enough to allow the piston to slide in and out easier. I had to do this about two months ago to mine and its never been so good!! As for the engine mine kept cutting out and bogging down at low revs, I replaced the little jet in the card that is attached to the floats. The little rubber end gets stuck shut there for not allowing fuel to pass through they are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedee Posted March 28, 2010 Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 Hi its part number 8 float valve comp* Lampkins will give you the number to phone for carb bits he doesn't stock any spairs for the carbs, ive heard a couple of cases where the rear caliper cracks but doest leak so check for cracks if you strip the brake, that might be the problem. You should be able to blag a new one under warrenty!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liviob Posted March 28, 2010 Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 I have an 09 290 evo. I had a temporary rear brake problem similar to yours. I removed the rear wheel and used a screw driver between the pads to open them up a little. And after reinstalling the the wheel into the swing arm the rear brake would drag upon release of the brake pedal. I assumed that i might have twisted the brake slave cylinder piston a little. I fixed it by inserting a screwdriver into the top half of the brake pads and pushed an equal amout as i pushed at the outside of the brake pad and problem solved. Those calipers must have a very short piston? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stork955 Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 Gday, here are the Evo ignition specs. Keep in mind my bike is a 2010 250, but they are very likely the same anyway. Also, if there is no spark don't go pulling the carb apart. You have enough issues now without building new ones in as well! Source Coil Blue and Red Wires Resistance - 316 ohms. Check there is No circuit to ground. Output at kickover - 25 V AC (Measured on my multimeter using its recording function. This is RMS V AC so output looks lower than it really is. It gives a good ballpark reading though.) Trigger Coil White and Black Resistance - 336 ohms. No ground. Output at Kickover - 0.3 v AC (Same as above for the Source coil) Coil Secondary measured from plug cap to ground Resistance - 10.17 K Ohms Coil Primary White/red trace Measured between CDI connector and ground. Resistance 0.4 ohms. My meter has an internal resistance of 0.2 ohms so factor this in. If it is up to 1 ohm its OK. Less is also no good. This test also checks one connector on its trip to the coil. Ground Brown 0 ohms circuit to ground. This checks the ground wire from the CDI connector. I noticed that the ignition coil also uses a seperate ground which connects to this point. If in doubt, check the coil seperately. For the coils, check both resistance and output. There can be issues with the flywheel that can prevent the unit functioning but still measure OK for resistance checks. You may need an assistant to hold meter leads etc. Cheers, Stork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petejohn Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 Kia ora thanks stork, that explaines how to check all the electric stuff. Do you know if the same readings are used on a Evo 125. I am hoping if you have all this info you will never use it Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticket2ride Posted March 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 Thanks all, Stork - really appreciate your time on this.... I'll hopefully have a look later this evening and see what I can find........electrics are a bit of a grey one for me but will see what happens!! Loads of comments on the rear brake too.....the caliper pistons do have a short throw....but, I'm wondering whether it's the master cylinder piston that is a little sticky as a first port of call....I did have to push the caliper pistons back to get the pads in initially and they seemed reasonably loose......the bike has only done around 10 hrs in total too so I wouldn't expect too much crap on the seals..... I'll report back when/if I have any joy!?!??!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pipster Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) Fair play Stork great feedback I 've got a 09 250 Evo touch wood no gremlins yet but will print that info and keep it in workshop ... Edited March 29, 2010 by pipster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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