jsygasgas Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 (edited) just was attempting to swap s3 pipe off 125 and put it on my 250 ... i took the nuts off the thread and then pulled thepipe off all good and and then as i was taking the thread out with the right size allen key half way down it just snapped clean off i didnt even realise cause of how cleanly it broke off so completly clue less i took the other one off and of course ith happened to the other one aswell ..................... does any one have any idea on how to get these lil F***ers out if so please help cause my dad is on a mad one (N) Edited April 1, 2010 by jsygasgas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalley250 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 You need to join in with your dad with the swearing and see if you can swear it out You most likley will have to drill and tap n die it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
houseape1000 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Is there anything left to get hold of ? Best method is heating them up with a blow torch........try to keep the heat away from the head though. If there is enough thread showing, you can put two nuts on, and tighten them against one another, then wind out, make sure they're hot. If there's no thread showing, you will need to use an easy out, would still recommend heat also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richt Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Yes, usually when a stud shears off is because the thread is seized or Locktighted, sorry to say this but I think you will end up having to drill them out. (after you have both finished swearing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 (edited) A good quality easy out is all that will work and since you know its very tight a lot of heat right on the remaining part without heating the cylinder too much. I cannot over emphasise the good quality part of the above statement. You will get easyouts that look like taps with a reverse thread but a lot of these are poorly made and seldom work in my experience. They could leave you with few options other than drill and tap a new hole. Maybe a very good set would work but I find the best type are the tapered square edge type that a good hardware shop should have. These look like a tapered square rod about the size of a drill bit with a machine tool stepped edge. All you do is drill a pilot hole and hammer the extractor in. It bites the edge of the hole and you fit a spanner or socket to the end and screw it out with lots of heat. Never had one fail yet. Square stud extractor The art of extraction Edited April 1, 2010 by bigfoot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_scorpa3 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 By all means give it a go using all of the methods mentioned, but if you try to drill a hole in the stud, be very careful not to drift off centre, you could do some serious damage to the surrounding area. See if you can find a local engineering firm with a spark erroder, in the long run it might be worth paying a proffesional to get them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikee Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Go easy with the drilling as its a blind hole and its only about 12mm deep... Go to far with the drill and you will end in the water jacket and have a bigger mess. Best to take the barrel off the bike so you can see what your about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
houseape1000 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 (edited) You could place the nut over the stud so it can be seen through the hole, then weld the nut to the stud through the hole in the nut......got it....? This heats the stud up up a lot, and you get a nut to fit a spanner on ! if you see what I mean ! can you post a pic ? Oh and its a good idea to put a washer behind the nut. I DONT KNOW IF THIS WILL AFFECT THE STATOR OR ANYTHING ELSE Edited April 1, 2010 by houseape1000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anyoldiron Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 You could place the nut over the stud so it can be seen through the hole, then weld the nut to the stud through the hole in the nut......got it....? .Top tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_scorpa3 Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 You could place the nut over the stud so it can be seen through the hole, then weld the nut to the stud through the hole in the nut......got it....?This heats the stud up up a lot, and you get a nut to fit a spanner on ! if you see what I mean ! can you post a pic ? Oh and its a good idea to put a washer behind the nut. I DONT KNOW IF THIS WILL AFFECT THE STATOR OR ANYTHING ELSE You could place the nut over the stud so it can be seen through the hole, then weld the nut to the stud through the hole in the nut......got it....?This heats the stud up up a lot, and you get a nut to fit a spanner on ! if you see what I mean ! can you post a pic ? Oh and its a good idea to put a washer behind the nut. I DONT KNOW IF THIS WILL AFFECT THE STATOR OR ANYTHING ELSE If you are going to try this (I assume you will use a type of electric welding), please DO disconnect the stator and the cdi before striking an arc. Also, the heat from the welding process may well loosen the stuck thread but wait until it fully cools down before trying to turn the nut as the heat will make the stud expand and actually be tighter until it cools. Good luck and let us know how you get on. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraggydog64 Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 If your going to drill out the broken stud get a small Dremmel type drill with a small round grinding attachment to create a small indent in the centre of the broken stud. Then you can be sure the drill will go down the centre of the stud. I find battery drills best for this type of delicate work. That 900w Makita hammer drill might prove a bit too much. Scragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsygasgas Posted April 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 cheers for all the advice got them out in the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
houseape1000 Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 cheers for all the advice got them out in the end HOW ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalley250 Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 Did you swear them little f*****s out. Glad youre sorted and buy your dad a beer via your mum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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