boristas Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Hmmm.....that looks good....but how do you know you've put in exactly 450ml?....because if you put only 450ml in the bottle then I'd guess that some of that will remain in the pump mechanism?Best of balance. Neo Yeah you're right Neo but the bottle has 100ml markings on the side, so I just tip in my whole 1ltr bottle, confirm there IS 1000ml of oil and just leave 550ml in there, next time I leave 100ml.......you get the drift. Also that plastic clear hose it comes with is a perfect fit in the filler once you take off the little aly U bend. Get one, they're cheap as chips and fantastic when you're in a hurry, like after you've drowned your bike mid event and you wanna give it a quick oil change, (don't ask me how I know this ;-) BT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htrdoug Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 As a side note I have a 2000 2.9 that I use Maxima 75wt Motorcycle Transmission Lube. I change my oil once or twice a year. I have not had the clutch plates stick at start up, always been a nice smooth clutch operation, no slippage. (maybe the plates are just old and don't hook up like they should)Filling it back up takes a little bit of time, I lean the bike over against my workbench at roughly 45degrees. I have a funnel with some silicone tubing that I use, Takes a bit for it to flow into the bike, but with the tubing attached to the funnel I can stand up and not be all hunched over. The following is just my opinion and may be subject to fact verification by someone who actually knows. I don't like the idea of using automatic transmission fluid in a gearbox. The ATF is a hydraulic fluid used for pressure applications not for its lubricating abilities. Inside a gearbox lubrication is way more important than pressure abilities. And a Gear Lube that is designed for motorcycle wet clutches is designed for just the purpose that I am using it for. Automatic transmissions have meshing gears in them! and sliding surfaces,pumps,bushing,bearings,seals that slide,all kinds of chit! Many manual transmissions spec ATF as their fluid. That said,my old Fantic(note-not a Sherco) starts shifting stiffy on about the end of the second loop with straight ATF in the trans,but the clutch works great with it. I think it's just too thin for my bike,I'm running 50-50 atf and m/c gear oil right now,but haven't ran any events with that combo yet,so I don't know how well it'll do on a long day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Well, all I can comment on this is based upon my current condition with still runing the -2 spring set! Seems running the thinner ATF is neccessary, What has it been, over a year now and no problems, yet not using the cheap ATF, but rather the good Merc synthic stuff. I have no problems with the lubricating properties of ATF in either a clutch or gear environment, yet the clutch response will vary with the viscotity of the oil and the squish out reaction between the plates. For a stock clutch, the motor oil just seems to work better! Yet I am spoiled now and admit it! Doing the Dan Williams mods such as the Beta and a bit of well spent off time can really make a difference. Even Ryan Young was easily able to get full WOT pops out of my bike running the less springs at our outing in TN, and I could never attempt what he was doing with it! Yet still light and smooth. The ATF just squishes out better under the lighter spring force, and such, yet still all this not recommended for advanced riders, just the punters. Stick with the motor oil and stock springs otherwise. Mine has not STUCK from cold due to surface tention, either. Yet I still never trust it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted April 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Hmmm...you got me thinking... remembering Cope. I running that -2 spring set! too....I love it too. But I don't think that will effect my test results.....for what happen to most Sherco's out there.....funny how my 2002 was less prone to this but it still happened. 5 perfect "stone cold engagements" and counting At this this stage I can at least claim that there is a significant improvement.....But please wait until I have had time to inspect the oil that comes out of the box in a few weeks time. Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-shock 250 Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 Any update on the oil NEO? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted April 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 (edited) Hi Gents, Sorry for the late update..... It's been cold here this past week so I tested the clutch one last time before the oil change..... Held the front brake on...One click, one twitch and no problems So I warmed her up, lean the bike over 45 degrees, place a large clean magnet on the bash plate (and one underneath the plate to hold it there) and let the oil run over it, on it's way down to the oil pan on the floor. And I have the say I was very, very, very impressed The oil was still semi transparent so you could still see the bash plate through the oil running over it. There were no smears and and no silver linings and not a fragment of metal stuck to the magnet. So as far as I am concerned this case is proven....and I am completely sold on this stuff. BTW...it took me just 1min 40sec to refill the 450cc with this oil. I have also made myself a new oil filler bolt that won't wear out...will post photos and write-up soon. Best of balance. Neo Edited April 30, 2010 by Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted April 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 As promised here it is... All I did was drill out and countersink an old filler bolt. Then tapped out the hole and used a HSS contersunk bolt which I fixed in with Arildite (not rapid) to keep the bolt in there. Then I painted the head of the bolt with hard black paint and put an o-ring over the head to finish it off. The allan key is the same as size as before but there is a much firmer feel to tightening and undoing the oil bolt now. I had use an electric hand drill to drill out the hole so it's not perfectly in the centre....but still looks OK. Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caddabs Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Good news Off in search of Nulon - nice one !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted May 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 Hi Gents, Can anyone that tries this oil give there feedback on what they experience? Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted June 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 (edited) 3 months on and I'm still finding this oil is the best solution Would be nice to see some feedback from anyone that has tried this oil too? Best of balance. Neo Edited June 30, 2010 by Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombat Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Neo, I'm changing from a '74 TY250a to an '03 Sherco 250 for State and Club rounds. I've used ATF in the TY for years without any problems, now the Sherco is different and i'm still learning whats good and bad for it. This thread is good as it has given me some ideas. You are using Nulon oil? where did you pick it up from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Hi wombat, This Nulon stuff is brilliant! But might not appreciate how good it is until you've had your Sherco drag you down the driveway a few times I'm not sure where in the world you are located but the Nulon Australia site has a Store Locator [CLICK HERE] where you can find your local stockist (All SuperCheap Autos too) ....If not I'm sure the Nulon site of you country should have the same thing. Your old oil will still be in the plates for a while. So it will take a few hours and a good ride before you'll see the full effect of the Nulon oil from a stone cold start. Please let us know how you get on with this oil? Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 (edited) Hmm, wish I'd known about this stuff in my Sherco days - As for getting it in the bike, I found 700ml (or any size) drinking bottles for rabbits/guinea pigs ect work best. Available from the nearest pet shop for a couple of coins. Click Cut a small amount off the end of the drinking spout so the ball bearing drops out and oil will flow freely from bottle to bike - Squeeze some 8mm i.d. fuel pipe on and you can tie the bottle to the bike, put the pipe in the filler and leave it fill while you get on with any other task Edited July 14, 2010 by shercoman2k8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 What do you mean by in my sherco days, have you got something to tell us? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 What do you mean by in my sherco days, have you got something to tell us? Riding a 2010 Gas Gas 125 Racing now... I miss you guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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