sherpat250 Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 Hi all, Coming off of a no throttle condition, my engine goes through a brief "flat spot" where it nearly stalls. Advancing the throttle just a bit farther makes it suddenly 'spring' to life and it runs well from there on up to high RPMs. I thoroughly cleaned out the carburetor, even all of the little passages (all that I could find, anyway) and the bike continues to run erratic at low speeds. A possible clue: Adjusting the air mixture screw on the carb seems to make very little, if any, difference in how the engine runs. I thought perhaps the rubber insulator was leaking between the carb and block, so I tightly wrapped the joints with electrical tape--just as a test. It made no difference that I can tell. Anyone have any ideas of other things I can try? Thanks, Kevin Rochester, NY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john collins Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 Just a quick one - as you do not give year? If it is what I call the square bowl Amal - fitted 75 on - just check the overflow pipes coming from each side. They are joined from side to side as standard BUT there is a slit in the tube - which in effect means they are two separate tubes with open ends. Sometimes people see the split and fit a new piece of pipe - if you have done this just cut pipe in half with a scissors and try bike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 (edited) Try raising the needle a notch or two. It sounds as if its just a shade weak just as it starts to come off the idle jet. If you can get one try a size larger idle jet. Perhaps go through your carb clening again with extra care on the slow running jet and passages to and from it. Check the number of turns ut of the slw running mixture adjustment screw. Cheers PS just had a thought - is your slide worn near the cut away, this cancause weakness just as throttle starts t open. Edited June 23, 2010 by Dadof2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpat250 Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 Just a quick one - as you do not give year?If it is what I call the square bowl Amal - fitted 75 on - just check the overflow pipes coming from each side. They are joined from side to side as standard BUT there is a slit in the tube - which in effect means they are two separate tubes with open ends. Sometimes people see the split and fit a new piece of pipe - if you have done this just cut pipe in half with a scissors and try bike Thanks for the input. The bike is a Model 91, which I believe is 1972-74 time frame. It has a concentric carb, with no overflow tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpat250 Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 Try raising the needle a notch or two. It sounds as if its just a shade weak just as it starts to come off the idle jet. If you can get one try a size larger idle jet. Perhaps go through your carb clening again with extra care on the slow running jet and passages to and from it. Check the number of turns ut of the slw running mixture adjustment screw.Cheers PS just had a thought - is your slide worn near the cut away, this cancause weakness just as throttle starts t open. Thanks, I'll give that a try. The needle does appear to be down almost as low as it will go, so there is certainly room to raise it. The slide appears to be nice and snug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swooshdave Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Tear the carb down and report back with needle jet, main jet and pilot jet numbers. They are stamped on each part. Instead of tape or "snuggest" of the carb to manifold a better test is to spray carb cleaner on the joint will the bike is running. A change in rpm denotes a leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpat250 Posted July 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Tear the carb down and report back with needle jet, main jet and pilot jet numbers. They are stamped on each part.Instead of tape or "snuggest" of the carb to manifold a better test is to spray carb cleaner on the joint will the bike is running. A change in rpm denotes a leak. Hello, I tore the carb down and found the jet numbers. They are as follows: Needle Jet 106 Main Jet 160 Pilot Jet 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big john Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 You say the mixture screw doesn't make much difference to fine tuning...it should! Here's a thought... When were the crankcase seals last replaced? Air can be sucked into the crankcases if the magneto side is worn giving a weak mixture and sometimes a flat spot. If, on the other hand, the clutch side wears, it usually fouls plugs by sucking oil from the primary chaincase. If the seals are not spot on, the bike will run crap and no amount of rejetting etc will improve it as the seals will continue to degrade and make the mixture settings go off further. I presume this has happened gradually and the bike ran fine before all this? Big John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overthehill Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 If the carb is the best part of 40 years old the best thing you can do is replace it with a new one - the bores and slides wear, the needle and needle jet wear - you can get a new concentric for about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swooshdave Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 I thought the pilot jet to be too small. I'm running a 35 compared to his 20. The lag from "no throttle" is just where the pilot jet is in effect. Lag could be that it's too lean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpat250 Posted July 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Greetings all, I have an update to my situation with the Bultaco carb...This is an Amal 627(L), and I have discovered a lead plug that is very loose in the small hole at the right hand side of the air intake horn. I believe this plug is used to block off the unused side of the carburetor, depending on which side the adjustments are to be on. Looking at a detailed diagram of the carb, it appears that this passageway is in the same circuit as my pilot jet. Do you think that could be the whole problem? I'm thinking it could be introducing excess air into the pilot circuit and/or interrupting the operation of the pilot jet. I appreciate all the suggestions given thus far. The carb is otherwise in good shape (tight slide, proper float operation, no gum build-up, etc.) so I would liketo fix it if possible, rather than buy a new one, but it's good to know that option exists if I need to go that route. Regards, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swooshdave Posted July 23, 2010 Report Share Posted July 23, 2010 Pretty easy to test. Plug the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpat250 Posted July 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2010 Pretty easy to test. Plug the hole. I have done just that, using a small amount of J-B Weld sealer. I'll report back on how it works. I'm more inclined to think this is the problem rather than a jet sizing issue, because it ran fine before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swooshdave Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 I have done just that, using a small amount of J-B Weld sealer. I'll report back on how it works. I'm more inclined to think this is the problem rather than a jet sizing issue, because it ran fine before. Well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpat250 Posted August 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2010 Well? Hi Dave & all, Well, the saga continues...I plugged the hole in the AMAL carb (where the loose lead plug was previously), and it did help a SMALL amount. However, I still have the erratic idle, the air adjustment screw makes little or no difference, and there is still the "flat spot" upon acceleration off idle. I was dissapointed, because I thought surely this was the problem. I'm now investigating a possible leaky crankshaft seal. I pulled the flywheel, removed the left side crank seal, and sure enough, it does show signs of leakage (some grease/oil outside the seal). I also noticed that the fine, circular spring that goes around the outer edge of the seal is broken. There are actually two seals, back to back, and only one shows the broken spring. These are 38mm diameter seals. So, how about it, Bultaco pros? Do you think I am on the right track in suspecting leaky seals? I will get new seals and give them a try. It has been suggested by someone near me who handles Ossa parts, that the seals MAY be common between Bultaco and Ossa. Does anyone know if this is the case? Thanks, --Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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