b40rt Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 Hi all. In the process of "trying" to remove the barrel for a re-bore. The four long studs that go right through to the crank case are solid. Haven't been touched for decades. I have been regularly spraying them with wd40 & duck oil but so far no movement. A friend has suggested a hot air gun, which I haven't bought yet, is this the best way ? Any other suggestions ? Thanks Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max1956bikes Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 heat is the way to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 When you say no movement, do you mean from trying to slide the barrel off the studs or the studs themselves. I had the same problem with a couple on mine which had rust build up along their length in the barrel and the only way to do it was to remove the studs themselves. Unscrewing the studs was sufficient to break the hold the rust had and allow them to be removed, but there was no way the barrell was going to slide off the rusted studs, rust build up was too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted July 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 When you say no movement, do you mean from trying to slide the barrel off the studs or the studs themselves. I had the same problem with a couple on mine which had rust build up along their length in the barrel and the only way to do it was to remove the studs themselves. Unscrewing the studs was sufficient to break the hold the rust had and allow them to be removed, but there was no way the barrell was going to slide off the rusted studs, rust build up was too much. No movement from studs or barrel. Tried to remove the studs but don't want to break them, gently tapped the barrel but only bending the fins. Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stork955 Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 Gday Ross, heat is the go, and plenty of WD40 or equivalent. Cover the mouth of the crankcase up with a rag to stop the rubbish dropping into the case area. Give the ends of the studs a tap with the nuts on to protect the threads as well, this might help to shock the rust free. Good luck. Cheers, Stork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinm Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Hi Ross I assume you have got the head off ok ?? If so get 2 cylinder head nuts screwed onto 1 stud, wind the nuts together with 2 spanners so they lock together and unscrew the stud by using the lower nut. I would be surprised if you break the studs...dont panic if you do, I have loads of them here if you need any replacements. Cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Hi RossI assume you have got the head off ok ?? If so get 2 cylinder head nuts screwed onto 1 stud, wind the nuts together with 2 spanners so they lock together and unscrew the stud by using the lower nut. I would be surprised if you break the studs...dont panic if you do, I have loads of them here if you need any replacements. Cheers Martin Hi Martin Have been trying that, the studs will twist by 20/30 degrees, didnt want to break them and end up having to drill them out of barrel / crank case. Good to know they are available if required. Thanks Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinm Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 OK Ross Try this as a last resort. Get a plastic storage box, place the motor in it with the barrell pointing down. Fill it up with diesel and leave to soak for 2/3 days. If that doesnt shift it, get your hacksaw out !!! Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted July 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 Three out of the four removed with a combination of heat, hitting and duck oil. Forth still resisting. At least the barrel is moving slightly so should free off eventually. All the corrosion is between the studs and the barrel, the actual threads look fine. Are they locktited in originally ? Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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