twinkletoes Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 my mates virtually unused Sherco 290 2009 has started to give electric shocks via touching the brake lever when revving up. higher revs, bigger shock. quick check over mid trial showed no loose earth's or loose block/bullet connections. everything appears visually OK. His gloves were very wet. What next to diagnose the problem, apart from the call to MRS, obviously? Anyone else had similar problems? got him to ride slower and smoother that's for sure, but its rather a drastic way of coaching ....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Have the lights been removed from the bike ? And if so was it done correctly ? I believe sherco makes a light harness eliminator harness/jumper kit so the output of the generator gets routed correctly without regulator issues ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamjayzee Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 The only way you'll get a shock touching some metal is if you have a grounding issue. That may be that you have a 'floating' ground (as may happen if, as mentioned above, something like a lighting kit is removed without tieing down the output of a coil, or ensuring stray cables cannot touch metal), but may also be that a ground is dirty or loose. I'd look here first. Also look for bare insulation on any wires and particularly look around th coil area and HT lead. Good luck, and wear wellies... Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twinkletoes Posted July 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 cheers guys, to further, all the grounds were tight free from corrosion and the lighting kit is still in situ from new (its only done about 4/5 trials). thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 (edited) Just because an earth connector is held firmly in place does not mean it has a good connection. Remove it and file flat both surfaces....Using a digital ohm (resistance) meter will also help locate the problem. Best of balance. Neo Edited July 12, 2010 by Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Kill switch is bad. Not properly isolating the hot wire from the bars. Replace with a good two-wire kill switch. The kill switch wire is usually about 400V so if the ground through the headstock is not great (it isn't) then there can be a couple hundred volts leaking onto the bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Kill switch is bad. Not properly isolating the hot wire from the bars. Replace with a good two-wire kill switch. The kill switch wire is usually about 400V so if the ground through the headstock is not great (it isn't) then there can be a couple hundred volts leaking onto the bars. Along the lines of what Dan stated, inspect for water entry into the bar bounted switch assy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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