Clutch Drag ? Help

[viciousvinny]

Hello, I have just bought a 2007 gas gas pro 250, the clutch drags and its almost impossible to find neutral with the engine running and it slowly creeps with the clutch in, I have had it all apart and the only thing I found was a very small warp in the steel seperator plates (1mm) I have replaced these with 2 new ones (1.3mm thick). There was also very minor seepage from the master cylinder seals, so i have just replaced these and its still the same even after bleeding from the lower nipple up to the master cylinder with a syringe. I then spoke to gas gas who suggested getting bike up to temp then burying front wheel into a wall and dropping the clutch 3 or 4 times for about 5-10 seconds with plenty of gas. I did this and the bite seemed almost right at the end and it stopped dragging :-), for 5 minutes. As soon as i turned it off for a minute then restarted it, its dragging again, please can anyone help

[viciousvinny]

oh, forgot to add, there was ATF oil in it when i bought it, it was dragging then, I have put 10/40 semi in it 550 ml ????

[gronno]

Go back to AtF, cheapest and quickest potential solution.

[viciousvinny]

thanks ,but like i said, it was dragging with the atf, surely theres got to be a simple solution? ???

[rhinouk]

I had the same problem it turned out being the braided hose it was leaking inside the plastic sleave so there was no sign of fluid leaking i would bleed it and it was ok for a while then it would drag again If you look at the clutch hose and its a slightly darker colour than the brake hose then yours could be the same problem

[viciousvinny]

hose looks ok, its the same as soon as i bleed it, as I said, i did the trick gasgasuk advises, putting it up against a wall and dropping clutch in 3rd or 4th, 4 times for a few seconds so it slips, and this works fine for a few minutes, then it starts dragging again, the metal divider plates are the thinnest 1.3mm type so the clutch pack shouldn't be too thick, and the friction plates still have a small amount of pattern on them, so not completely worn out, although I do have 550ml of 10/40 in it, i will empty it out tomorrow and try 350ml of ATF (although it had ATF in it when i got it and was still dragging), and post back here, thanks for the suggestions so far and any further help would be gratefully appreciated

[viciousvinny]

just posted this in the wrong place by mistake so pasted it here, sorry,

ok, the 2 steel plates i replaced were with 1.3mm ones, these are the thinnest they do, so i'm thinking that the plate stack shouldn't be too thick, the actual friction plates still just about had grooved dividers every 20 mil or so around them, so i think this means they are not 'too worn'?

also it says 550cc on the side of the engine for oil, do people put 350cc/ml to stop them dragging, it says in the manual to use a 10/40 but on the gasgas.com tech help to use 5/30 and NOT 10/40???

[paddyrfc]

I had the same problem. I found the problem was with the master cylinder. The bore that the piston sits in had little grooves worn into it so it wouldnt seal or push the fluid down fully to the slave cylinder. It was weeping at the rubber boot on the cylinder. I replaced the unit and problem solved. I use gasgas gear oil by Rock Oil in the gear box and find it works very well. As cheap as ATF aswell. Hope you get sorted soon.

[viciousvinny]

changed the oil today to 350 - 400 ml lf atf, and its still dragging?

[copemech]

changed the oil today to 350 - 400 ml lf atf, and its still dragging?

Sounds to me you need to start over with new plates(warped)! Then ck your stack height!

Nada gas expert here!