Adjust clutck lever

[kayloe]

Before i start just want to say thanks for the help so far with the other threads. New to trials and know nothing

Anyway clutch does not creep but not far off, also problem getting neatral when stopped. Back bled the clutch system last night with fresh mineral oil and changed gear oil to atf. No real changes to the getting neatral problem. As for the lever adjustment,should it just take up the play between lever and plunger? or should it have more load.

many thanks Kay.

[dadof2]

Set it so that is has about 19mm free play at end of lever, this is same as diameter as ball on end of lever. Is clutch still drags suspect something internal or still air is oil. On most trials bikes it can be hard to find neutral once stopped.

Cheers

[kayloe]

Set it so that is has about 19mm free play at end of lever, this is same as diameter as ball on end of lever. Is clutch still drags suspect something internal or still air is oil. On most trials bikes it can be hard to find neutral once stopped.

Cheers

sorry to sound dum, so if i had the adjuster wound all the way out just touching the piston when i bled it, how far should i wind it back in or do i leave just touching? sorry i dont understand too well.

Kay

[sting32]

sorry to sound dum, so if i had the adjuster wound all the way out just touching the piston when i bled it, how far should i wind it back in or do i leave just touching? sorry i dont understand too well.

Kay

Kay,

All the gasgas Pro model trials bikes "drag" a little bit, I think all brands might be the same way, but I dont know this to be true, and by drag I mean it tries to move if stopped "slightly" when clutch pulled in. if you compare to street bikes and such, it seems "bad" but it isnt.

Some of it is affected by the type and amount of oil in the transmission, But rest assured a lot of it is overlooked because the trick to the clutch operation is the ease in which you pull the clutch with one (your index) finger. WHen you get to riding trials, the clutch will be being held slightly slipping the clutch at almost all the time, while going slow, so the pressure it takes to pull that clutch needs to be easy. To gain the ease, we have had to give up some of the travel (where the forces seperate the clutch discs). When you know you are going to park (need to get neutral) do like I do, as you get close to where you want to be & while rolling find neutral, or shut it off, LOL

Then main thing you have to be concerned about is the free play on the lever, where it pushes into the little cup shape ended pin, that pushes the plunger inside the master cylinder. The plunger HAS TO be allowed to come all the way back to rest against a circlip. This "at rest" position is where the plunger exposes holes to allow the Hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) swap places with the resivior, IE: to allow the expanded by heat oil out or into the line to majically adjust itself to conditions.

Make darn sure that when you move the lever, there is like 1mm or so of play (at the plunger side I am talking about) before that adjuster screw starts pushing the plunger, which is behind the little cup shap ended rod that the adjuster pushes on. I do this by pushing on the cup ended rod with my fingers, to make sure I can move that rod a tiny bit (there is slack). if nothing else you should carefully feel a gap when you pull the lever from at rest position.

It is critical, that there is a little slack there as described best I can say it.

hope this helps.

Edited October 29, 2010 by Sting32

[chewy]

Hi Kayloe ;what it boils down to (what you need to achieve) is the piston in the master cylinder (thats what the body of your clutch lever is)is being allowed to come right back, there is a spring behind it ( if you imagine it being like a reillable syringe where the lever action pushes the plunger/piston to displace fluid) so that free play at the end of the lever means that your lever isn't holding the piston foreward. Just an opinion but you will find very few trials bikes wher the clutch disengages enough to find neutral easily, this can be atributed to several factors; eg. you could deglaze the plates (because of how they work with oil in between them they want to stick together, (if you take two extremely flat or well mated surfaces they will stick together as if glued) overall and it's only a guess I think the clutch systems (like most things) are a design compromise between weight, cost and function, hope this helps.

[kayloe]

Kay,

All the gasgas Pro model trials bikes "drag" a little bit, I think all brands might be the same way, but I dont know this to be true, and by drag I mean it tries to move if stopped "slightly" when clutch pulled in. if you compare to street bikes and such, it seems "bad" but it isnt.

Some of it is affected by the type and amount of oil in the transmission, But rest assured a lot of it is overlooked because the trick to the clutch operation is the ease in which you pull the clutch with one (your index) finger. WHen you get to riding trials, the clutch will be being held slightly slipping the clutch at almost all the time, while going slow, so the pressure it takes to pull that clutch needs to be easy. To gain the ease, we have had to give up some of the travel (where the forces seperate the clutch discs). When you know you are going to park (need to get neutral) do like I do, as you get close to where you want to be & while rolling find neutral, or shut it off, LOL

Then main thing you have to be concerned about is the free play on the lever, where it pushes into the little cup shape ended pin, that pushes the plunger inside the master cylinder. The plunger HAS TO be allowed to come all the way back to rest against a circlip. This "at rest" position is where the plunger exposes holes to allow the Hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) swap places with the resivior, IE: to allow the expanded by heat oil out or into the line to majically adjust itself to conditions.

Make darn sure that when you move the lever, there is like 1mm or so of play (at the plunger side I am talking about) before that adjuster screw starts pushing the plunger, which is behind the little cup shap ended rod that the adjuster pushes on. I do this by pushing on the cup ended rod with my fingers, to make sure I can move that rod a tiny bit (there is slack). if nothing else you should carefully feel a gap when you pull the lever from at rest position.

It is critical, that there is a little slack there as described best I can say it.

hope this helps.

Think i got it now off for a look. When i bled the clutch last night i released the adjuster out and can say, it was adjusted a fair way in!

Back to the garage we go, spent more time in there this week than i have in the five years i have lived here lol.

Just seems so many differances compared to road of even motorcross bikes.

thanks again Kay

[sting32]

Just seems so many differances compared to road of even motorcross bikes.

thanks again Kay

It will be different, no doubt, look how different the bikes are to the eyes. Trials as you can tell from the bikes, has totaly different set of issues to deal with, lightness, ease of putting foot down (somewere) when in an akward rock climbing sitation (2nd reason for no seat), and more. They have 2 wheels, engine, tank, and same idea behind the controls, But the rest of the bikes are profoundly evolved machines, suited to do trials very well. Once you get a few things sorted, and then familiar with the bike, I forsee less time in the garage! Air cleaner and trans oil changes are usually all I have to do, inspect for loosening parts, then oil chain and go ride. about 30 minutes each month I figure, depending on crashes of course.