davet Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 Eh op all, just fitted new sprockets and chain.And guess what, yes i need a chain cutter,which would you recommend for a 520 chain..... Cheers Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1oldbanjo Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) I just use a grinder and cut the heads off the rivet and then use a punch to drive the pins out. It only takes a few minutes......and it is cheap to do. A bench grinder or hand held grinder works fine. Edited December 1, 2010 by 1oldbanjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyl Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 I just use a grinder and cut the heads off the rivet and then use a punch to drive the pins out. It only takes a few minutes......and it is cheap to do. A bench grinder or hand held grinder works fine. Me too - too tight to buy proper tool which inevitably breaks, jams or snaps!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy m Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTORCYCLE-CHAIN-LINK-EXTRACTOR-TOOL-00730-/180574836893?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a0b19589d#ht_953wt_698 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 I do it right on the bike. The sprocket holds the chain very well for grinding and punching. The rivet is a tight fit. When you grind it flush to the plate, it'll disappear. You have to estimate where it is for the first hit or 2 on the punch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsmotopat Posted December 2, 2010 Report Share Posted December 2, 2010 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTORCYCLE-CHAIN-LINK-EXTRACTOR-TOOL-00730-/180574836893?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a0b19589d#ht_953wt_698 Noooooooooooo !!!!!! DO NOT buy that piece of crap - had the exact same model and it bent and snapped before even marking the chain. Ended up spending about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petwar Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Me too - too tight to buy proper tool which inevitably breaks, jams or snaps!! Same as me. I carry a good chainbreaker for the events but like to use the grinder in the shop to avoid any distortion of the end-link bushing. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil king Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Same as me. I carry a good chainbreaker for the events but like to use the grinder in the shop to avoid any distortion of the end-link bushing. Jon I have a chain breaker that is the same style as the one posted on ebay. I bought it at a bearing shop about 20 years ago. I have used it on many chains and not just motorcycle chains. The trick to keep it from distoting the links is to not try to push one pin through all at once but to alternate from one pin to the other only pushing a little at a time. It's much better than a grinder and a punch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwilly Posted December 17, 2010 Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 Grinder or file for the toolbox whilst out and about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted December 17, 2010 Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 Renolds breaker for at least 20 yrs. http://www.vintage-motorcycle.com/index.php?language=en&site=4&pid=55&id=10341&limit=0 Bear in mind that some chains are "riveted" and must be ground down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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