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clutch draging


yamxj
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hi chaps the clutch on my 2000 txt 280 drags quite a bit i have put a new set of plates in bled the system tried adjusting the lever but it still drags though not as bad as it was the new plates have been in about three months riding the bike its not too bad but to roll down hill with the clutch in the back wheel just slides what els can i look at could it be the clutch basket or the springs at fault ANY IDEAS PLEASE

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when i first put my bike ( 2002 280 pro ) in to gear for the first time after starting it i hold the rear bake it seems to work fine for me. i was told to do thing by a couple sactoPITS members when i used to ride with them.

give this a shot!

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  • 3 weeks later...
 
 
 

If there is creep at stpos, it should be next to nil with lever pulled fully. You should be able to change gears and find neutral.

If all the plates are new, I would think that part to be ok, Now, as far as pushing them apart to separate enough not to drag excessivly, then a couple things need to happen.

The master cylinder must push enough fluid to the slave to make it react a certain distance to separate the plates. As the is is basically self adjusting, wear on a pushrod would not normally be an issue.

How does the lever feel? Does it feel soft and slow to build presure? Is the fluid resiviour low?

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hi chaps the clutch on my 2000 txt 280 drags quite a bit i have put a new set of plates in bled the system tried adjusting the lever but it still drags though not as bad as it was the new plates have been in about three months riding the bike its not too bad but to roll down hill with the clutch in the back wheel just slides what els can i look at could it be the clutch basket or the springs at fault ANY IDEAS PLEASE

Assuming you've got a little play before the adjustment screw on the lever starts to exert pressure on the plunger that goes through the rubber boot on the master cylinder, how far (measured at the lever ball-end)

does the lever move before you feel good pressure?

Also, is the rubber boot at the M/C in good shape or is it torn or falling off?

Jon

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i can pull the lever in about 10 mm before i feel resistance the rubber boot is a bit shabby and dose come away from the cylinder

My guess is that you might need a rebuild kit for the master cylinder. It may be that you have up to 10 years use on the M/C internals and normal wear is the cause of the drag.

A broken rubber boot will allow fine grit into the M/C bore and cause accelerated wear of the piston seal.

Jon

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i am afraid i need some more help please i have done the repair kit on master cylinder no change took clutch cover off when i pull clutch in the pressure plate only moves out about 3 or 4 mm is this normal could the slave cylinder be at fault

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i am afraid i need some more help please i have done the repair kit on master cylinder no change took clutch cover off when i pull clutch in the pressure plate only moves out about 3 or 4 mm is this normal could the slave cylinder be at fault

The pressure plate does not move much and 4mm sounds close to the mark. You might want to pull the pressure plate off and check all the plates, both for condition and being straight. One of the fiber plates may have the pads coming off (believed to be possibly caused by other-than-recommended oil and moisture reacting and creating an acid condition that attacks the adhesive holds the pads to the steel plate).

Jon

Edited by JSE
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