sherco 290 due tuning...

[ben111uk]

Ive Had A 08 320 from new and since day one really struggled with it, fount it impossable to get good traction in wet and slippy conditions, changed loads of things and got no where except my riding getting worse and worse, im only a novice rider.

Looking at going back to a 250/290 2 stoke, but i think the 290 will be to much for me level of riding, the only prob i have is there is so few decent 250 around the 08 / 09 year, where there seems to be a massive amount of 290. Is There any way or bringing the power of a 290 to something near a 250? like a thicker head gasket or altering the timing without making the bike un ridable??

anyones help would be much apprechated

thanks ben

[copemech]

Ive Had A 08 320 from new and since day one really struggled with it, fount it impossable to get good traction in wet and slippy conditions, changed loads of things and got no where except my riding getting worse and worse, im only a novice rider.

Looking at going back to a 250/290 2 stoke, but i think the 290 will be to much for me level of riding, the only prob i have is there is so few decent 250 around the 08 / 09 year, where there seems to be a massive amount of 290. Is There any way or bringing the power of a 290 to something near a 250? like a thicker head gasket or altering the timing without making the bike un ridable??

anyones help would be much apprechated

thanks ben

I feel your pain here Ben! Although the 3.2 can be a great bike in the right hands, doubt i would recommend one for the novice rider.

Your question does open a whole can-o-worms here, yet put simply, Yes, there are a few tricks to making a 2.9 settle nicely, yet a bit limited, as it is what it is, which may well work for you after the 3.2--------- Other part of the same sentance is the fact that a 2.5 would be a better choice if you can find it, yet if not , there are still many amongst us that have come to get along well with a 2.9, as it is really only, what, 23cc, or 10% larger displacement?

One BIG thing I would point out to you as a novice rider is the fact that the clutch is your friend. (and golden parachute)

It is the thing that applies power at all times! If you rely only upon the motor to find traction, you will fail!

Find yourself a slippery little section. Possibly even a slight grassy grade or mound of slick dirt with a down hill turn to a up! Whatever challenges you. Nasty sloppy turn. Try it in first gear, as normal, then try it in 2nd gear, forced to use clutch to apply power and find traction with it, then try third gear in the same, rev the motor all you wqant, yet feel for the traction using the clutch and smooth application, no lack of power here, it is there but you do not want it so you have to feel with the clutch, which with practice becomes easier, reguardless of motor, or revs, or even bike for that matter.

A 125 will clean more sections without spinning more than any thing! Why? Go figure?

[ormplus]

to tame down a 290 you can put on a slow action throttle,upto 3 base gaskets and also retard the ignition. try throttle first and go from there. willie

[chewy]

If it has ever kicked back you can retard it a few degrees and soften it up as a newcomer to Sherco's it seems they are all running too advanced;; too snappy, stall easy,run lumpy on tickover, kick back. Do they set them up like this to help run a bit cooler?

[steviec]

If it has ever kicked back you can retard it a few degrees and soften it up as a newcomer to Sherco's it seems they are all running too advanced;; too snappy, stall easy,run lumpy on tickover, kick back. Do they set them up like this to help run a bit cooler?

Chewy

You make some interesting points there. I have a 2010 250 and it does 'all of the above'. I have tried changing various jets as per advice on the forums but the bike still pinks regardless and wont tickover cleanly.

I'd be interested in altering the timing but I don't have the expertise, if there is anyone in the sheffield area who has done this i would like to hear from you.

I love the bike, it suits me perfect but i am loosing the will to live and it may have to go.

[rockyrider]

Stevie, Ben, I have a 2010 Sherco 250 that is just as snappy. Ive geared it differently, ive jetted it main and pilot, and im considering other adjustments. Namely, the three base gaskets, and or retarding the timing. Ive already got the slow throttle. Here is the web site to get expert instruction and pictures to guide you through these modifications. www.sherco.com/wayne_corner.html good luck.

Please let me know how to put up those one touch blue web sites. Anyone?

Edited January 1, 2011 by rockyrider

[neo]

but i am loosing the will to live

.... With the bike I assume?

If anyone's mechanically minded consider fitting an OKO24mm Carb (it's not that hard...read past topics on this) then follow that with a timing change if need be.

Best of balance.

Neo

[copemech]

I would change the timing first, as they seem to come set on the agressive side for the sake of performance.

Rotate the stator plate counter clockwise as viewed from the index mark to slow it and reduce kickback and stalling.

-2 mm change = helps things, still runs well on

-4 mm change = bike works good, little to no kickback or stalling on average. A bit slower.

-6 mm change = bike runs a bit slow, yet smooth, chugs well at low revs, yet less power and sloewr response.

Mine is currently set at -3 The one in the pic is at -4 as example.

Edited January 2, 2011 by copemech

[ben111uk]

I would change the timing first, as they seem to come set on the agressive side for the sake of performance.

Rotate the stator plate counter clockwise as viewed from the index mark to slow it and reduce kickback and stalling.

-2 mm change = helps things, still runs well on

-4 mm change = bike works good, little to no kickback or stalling on average. A bit slower.

-6 mm change = bike runs a bit slow, yet smooth, chugs well at low revs, yet less power and sloewr response.

Mine is currently set at -3 The one in the pic is at -4 as example.

Thanks everyone for all there help, just a quick question for the -2mm, -4mm, -6mm, how is this measured? with a rule or using a dial guage?? many thanks again

[wherry]

-6 mm change = bike runs a bit slow, yet smooth, chugs well at low revs, yet less power and sloewr response.

Does this tend to make the exhaust run hotter?

[caddabs]

Thought i'd have a quick look at mine,as it is a little "soft" but could you please tell me whether the nut holding the Ducati flywheel on needs to be torqued back down and if so, do you know the torque setting? Cheers Caddabs

[caddabs]

Also - do i need a flywheel puller?

[ham2]

Also - do i need a flywheel puller?

Oh Yes..

.. you do need to torque it back up (have a look at the pinned manuals on here for the spec).

Yet I do realise that most people just 'rattle-gun' the nut off /on so;

Scribe a line before loosening and when re-tightening go 15 degrees past your line (this is a Copey redneck tip and I take no responsibility for it,my actions,my attitude,my dog,this government..blah,blah)

and Wherry:

Yup ,It get s a bit hotter the more you retard it.

Edited January 2, 2011 by HAM2

[caddabs]

Thanks Ham2 - will source a puller and have a look another time. I think Wherry's question related to my bike as we rode it yesterday and noticed it had a very hot pipe. I had thought it might need a new piston to get the juices flowing again, but perhaps its the ignition? it was also knocking slightly on the over-run, so it could well be retarded. sorry for the post diversion !

cheers all

[copemech]

Timing procedure for the old style Ducati ignition is totally different. Ck the manuals.