bondy Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Tighten the nuts until they bottom and then back out 4 complete turns. You can't go much further than that otherwise the nuts, which are quite thick, will catch the inside of the clutch case. Fit the clutch cover case, remove the round adjustment screw and check the clearance of the nuts to the inside of the casing. Leave say a couple of millimetres as it is the thread of the adjustment screw that gets caught first as it sits proud of the inside edge of the casing. You can mill (or grind or hacksaw, whatever) the nuts down to half their thickness. This will enable you to wind them out a bit more without them touching the casing in order to ease off more on the spring tension which will give a lighter clutch pull. How much more is trial and error. I have Barnett plates in mine so can afford to back them off a fair bit due to the extra bite of the Barnett plate material. Can't remember how far though. If you do turn down the nuts and still want to use lock wire you will have to drill new holes as reducing the thickness of the nut loses the original holes. Don't back them off too much as although the bike will still start and pull in 1st or 2nd without any noticeable slip, if you have to really wail it in 3rd, it will slip. As to whether you can use fuse wire, I don't know. I'd just buy a roll of locking wire and use the correct stuff. thank you for that mutch needed addvice would have never thought about the threads catching the case ive just put barnet plats in mine like you said there thicker the lock wire were do you get it from tryed halfords dont do it cant thick off anywere else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 thank you for that mutch needed addvice would have never thought about the threads catching the case ive just put barnet plats in mine like you said there thicker the lock wire were do you get it from tryed halfords dont do it cant thick off anywere else You could try a local engineers stores or Trialsbits who used to sell it. Then again theres always good old flea bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 thank you for that mutch needed addvice would have never thought about the threads catching the case ive just put barnet plats in mine like you said there thicker the lock wire were do you get it from tryed halfords dont do it cant thick off anywere else http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=466 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Tighten the nuts until they bottom and then back out 4 complete turns. You can't go much further than that otherwise the nuts, which are quite thick, will catch the inside of the clutch case. Fit the clutch cover case, remove the round adjustment screw and check the clearance of the nuts to the inside of the casing. Leave say a couple of millimetres as it is the thread of the adjustment screw that gets caught first as it sits proud of the inside edge of the casing. You can mill (or grind or hacksaw, whatever) the nuts down to half their thickness. This will enable you to wind them out a bit more without them touching the casing in order to ease off more on the spring tension which will give a lighter clutch pull. How much more is trial and error. I have Barnett plates in mine so can afford to back them off a fair bit due to the extra bite of the Barnett plate material. Can't remember how far though. If you do turn down the nuts and still want to use lock wire you will have to drill new holes as reducing the thickness of the nut loses the original holes. Don't back them off too much as although the bike will still start and pull in 1st or 2nd without any noticeable slip, if you have to really wail it in 3rd, it will slip. As to whether you can use fuse wire, I don't know. I'd just buy a roll of locking wire and use the correct stuff. can you help me again my front wheel was wobbeling so i took it off and noticed one of the bearing was nackard so i took it out no probs came to do the other side and ive ended up with the outer race of the bearing still stuck inside it hasnt moved at all just the center came out can you help dont want to damage the hub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hewson Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Chris use an old screwdriver or a bar ,you should be able to see enough of the bearing to catch the edge of it to knock it out .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 Yes. If John Collins says so i for one would believe him. He knows more about Bultaco's than the rest of us have forgotten. hello john im chris ive just finished my 199A 350 ive put new barnet clutch plates in got new push rod in and throw out ball. ive bottomed the clutch springs and backed them off 3/half turns as sevice manual say. is this the best way to set the clutch? your help would be mutch needed thanks chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hightown Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 hello john im chris ive just finished my 199A 350 ive put new barnet clutch plates in got new push rod in and throw out ball. ive bottomed the clutch springs and backed them off 3/half turns as sevice manual say. is this the best way to set the clutch? your help would be mutch needed thanks chris Hello Bondy i have a 198a bultaco i have backed them off 4 full turns and the clutch is very smooth with no slip.Hope this helps Hightown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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