bob Posted February 24, 2005 Report Share Posted February 24, 2005 I moved my bars back abit which helped with this, apparently the ideal spot is to have the curve of the bars about in line with the fork legs. But only put them where you feel comfortable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinky boots Posted February 26, 2005 Report Share Posted February 26, 2005 Riding in mud is a nightmare, but technique is all important. bouncing up and down on the back end isn't a good solution, it might grip for a bit, but then you're just as quickly losing any traction gained, and you end up going nowhere fast. The technique I was taught, particularly when you're hill-climbing or negotiating some deep boggy stuff is to (and I quote) "stand on it and burn it". I was being far to tentative, when I needed to be brave and attack. Obvioulsy this doesn't apply in the twists and turns of a section, but in the main, you find most riders who struggle in mud tend to do so on hills. Get your weight on the pegs, and don't be afraid to wind open the throttle and really drive at it.... ....and Leeds have just scored (listening to the radio on-line), so I'm off to do a dance now..... Cheers KB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted February 26, 2005 Report Share Posted February 26, 2005 There is a technique that I have seldom been successful at, but when it works, it's amazing how you can hook up in mud. It involves pulling the clutch, grabbing a handful of throttle, shutting off, and while the engine is winding down, begin slipping the clutch. I'm sure it has something to do with the difference between using power and (in this case) the stored inertia from the crank/flywheel. Anyway...it takes a kind of control that I cannot summon up at will; but the times I've gotten it to work have been very surprising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-shock 250 Posted February 26, 2005 Report Share Posted February 26, 2005 On a 2 stroke it can often pay to pull as high a gear as you can, use full throttle and when you shut the power off the tyre will grip on the over-run. Obviously you can't do this in every section but if you have sharp bank to get up, you can use the over-run to get grip up the last few feet of the bank as long as you have enough revs on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.