chewy Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Finally finished a trial on my 2011 250 (due to tyre/rim problem) Along with another guy riding today I stalled it several times, I find the clutch action very quick (on /off) and am looking for ways to make it more progressive, I changed the springs on my last bike (200 Beta)for c.80% of rate/pressure this worked well for me with no sign of slip etc. I think its worth a try with the Sherco but it is always wise to look for the experience of others... any thoughts, experiences or ideas? Incidentally I shimmed the handlebars up by 6mm (it may be all in the mind) but it was better for me today. I'm still not convinced about the carburation it's unreliable/ at least inconsistent at the bottom end (it's probably more white gunge from the tank) this may have been a contributary factor to the stalling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 (edited) Finally finished a trial on my 2011 250 (due to tyre/rim problem) Along with another guy riding today I stalled it several times, I find the clutch action very quick (on /off) and am looking for ways to make it more progressive, I changed the springs on my last bike (200 Beta)for c.80% of rate/pressure this worked well for me with no sign of slip etc. I think its worth a try with the Sherco but it is always wise to look for the experience of others... any thoughts, experiences or ideas? Incidentally I shimmed the handlebars up by 6mm (it may be all in the mind) but it was better for me today. I'm still not convinced about the carburation it's unreliable/ at least inconsistent at the bottom end (it's probably more white gunge from the tank) this may have been a contributary factor to the stalling. Mummm, a few thoughts here on things you may opt to try. Thick oil--- The Sherco's were originally spec'ed for 40 wt oil. Suppose one could even try 50 wt oil for that matter. The higher viscosity just makes it a bit slower to squeese out from between the plates. Light springs--- Been running mine with two springs out for some time now. So 33% lighter pull. I have come to like it, but seems one has to make the change to light oil(ATF)to make it work decently, as with standard oil the action seems a bit inconsistant and floaty, not to mention seems to slip a bit on a full pop. Seems fine on liight fluid. You might yet ck to see if those Beta springs will fit. I tried to get some specs off you, but you said you could not find originals. Seems the friction plates are the same. The bit older style AJP two finger "shortie" lever actually has a greater length from the pivot point to the sweet spot on the lever, making it more progressive. The Dan Williams clutch mods seem to still apply here. I put a diagonal groove in all the friction pads as well, no stickey clutch after sat since! Oh,did you confirm which carb you have? Edited February 7, 2011 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 The friction plates may be the same as in a beta but nothing else fits, from memory the springs are completely different diameter & length Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewy Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Thanks again I wonder where we'd be without you Copemech, I have a deadline to meet on a batch of footpegs, after that I'll whip cover off and take a spring to my man and ask for 20% lighter same physical sizes (hopefully he will give a spec during the conversation. Its time to change oil so perhaps i'll try springs first, then oil (as this bike has the best clutch disengagment I have had on a bike for several years and don't want to compromise that) nothing happens fast on a bike at my age so I don't anticipate big hanfull/slip problems if I lighten the springs. Carb is a Dellorto pbh26BS. Have a mate who sells OKO carbs which may be way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Thanks again I wonder where we'd be without you Copemech, I have a deadline to meet on a batch of footpegs, after that I'll whip cover off and take a spring to my man and ask for 20% lighter same physical sizes (hopefully he will give a spec during the conversation. Its time to change oil so perhaps i'll try springs first, then oil (as this bike has the best clutch disengagment I have had on a bike for several years and don't want to compromise that) nothing happens fast on a bike at my age so I don't anticipate big hanfull/slip problems if I lighten the springs. Carb is a Dellorto pbh26BS. Have a mate who sells OKO carbs which may be way to go. I gave up on trying to match up springs to proper ratio based upon the website listings as there were just too many possible combinations based upon the dimentions. And with no truely good way to properly measure the rate on the stockers, became next to impossible to sort. Seems the stockers start out at 43-44mm and are compressed down by the screws by 24mm or so giving a to a working height of 20mm or so. And not far off coil bind. Hopefully they can find something in range of 20 light, with the working height in mind. Bit trickey, this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I have also noticed the clutch is quicker on my son's 2011 125 when compared to the 2010 125, which is something he likes. The '11 does have a smaller diameter braided clutch line instead of the old larger plastic hose, this might be part of what makes it faster. Maybe try the older hose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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