craftypiggy Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 I have searched the archives and cannot find a guide to bleeding brakes. I wondered if it would be possible if anyone would be able to give me a simple guide to bleeding brakes effectively, as I need to do it on my Beta and don't want to mess it up, I'm sure alot of others would benefit from one too. Thanks in advance, Lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuessenhigh Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 craftypiggy... I always reverse bleed both my brakes..(think thats what its called) I have a big syringe (cheap from the local chemist) which sits perfectly int the nipple on the calliper. Then keep pushing the fluid in...it overflows at the reservoir..and you can tell by the change of colour, when all the new fluid is through. Any air in the system allways wants to go uphill and out, so it seems to work really well. Usually takes me about 10 mins...front or back..and I've allways had great feeling brakes. Hope it continues to work for me!! Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 Agree with TFT, doing it the traditonal way is pants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
social climber Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 Agreed..... I use this method on my VFR as well so it works on large and small systems.... Only thing to remember is to keep a second syringe to draw the old fluid out of the reservoir a bit at a time. Brake fluid is very damaging to paint or lacquer (not to mention skin) so you don't want it overflowing, and soaking it up with a rag can be just as messy. Keep some soapy water handy just in case...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuessenhigh Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 Social Climber...that reminds me of a question I've been meaning to ask for ages. I use DOT 5.1 which doesnt matter if you spill it..for the very reason you mention above...so I just let it all spill all over the place and rinse down afterwards..no problems. BUT..I wanna ask you lot. Would DOT 5.1 be OK. the book says DOT 5...seems to work fine. see ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftypiggy Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 OK Stu, Do I pump the lever to make it push the fluid in? And where is the reservoir? So after I have bled the brakes do I take the cap off the tub on the lever and replace the lost fluid? Cheers Lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuessenhigh Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 Lloyd..I think I didnt explain it very well...'cause Im a bit confused by your last post. Gotta get some shut eye now..but I'll try to explain it a bit better tommorow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftypiggy Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 Sorry to confoooose you Stu, I can try and explain what I mean better if that would help? Sorry again, Lloyd me > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinell Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 OK Stu, Do I pump the lever to make it push the fluid in? And where is the reservoir? So after I have bled the brakes do I take the cap off the tub on the lever and replace the lost fluid?Cheers Lloyd 2002 Beta? If yes, the reservoir for the rear brake is above the rear shock - you'll see it as soon as you remove the rear mudguard. When bleeding brakes, always take the cap off the reservoir and keep checking the level of the fluid whilst you are bleeding them. So, 1 Cap off the rear brake reservoir 2 Check and top up with fluid 3 Pump the brake pedal up and down about 5-10 times 4 Keep the pedal pressed down hard 5 Release the bleed nipple half a turn on the rear caliper (air and fluid will spit out, the brake pedal will go down) 6 Tighten the nipple back up 7 Go back to number 2 above and repeat until all the air is out and just fluid is being spat out. Same deal for front brake and clutch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g4321 Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 4 Keep the pedal pressed down hard5 Release the bleed nipple half a turn on the rear caliper (air and fluid will spit out, the brake pedal will go down) 6 Tighten the nipple back up 7 Go back to number 2 above and repeat until all the air is out and just fluid is being spat out. Add a little bit in to No 5 here. Have a length of hose/pipe going from the nipple into a bottle or tin half full of fluid so that there is minimal risk of air getting drawn back into the nipple. Its also a lot cleaner than spraying fluid all over your garage. Faulty brakes are not a nice thing to have so if you are anyway unsure of how to bleed your brakes get a friend to show you how - you dont want to find your brake lines full of air or a leak appearing when you can most do without it. Its easy to do once you know what you are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 The reverse method is the easiest IMHO. Just get a syringe, hose that will fit the syringe and the bleed nipple on the caliper and brake fluid. Put the hose over the syringe. Remove the resi cap on the back brake, or if its the front, remove the top of the box by the lever, you may need to lift the lever round the bar to make the resi as straight and level as possible. Now fill the syringe with fluid and try to get all the air out by squeezing the syringe whilst its upside down (like the docters do when you get a jab). This is the messy bit so I'd cover the best part of the caliper with rags etc. Put the end of the syringe on the nipple, try not to get air in. You can stop air getting in by applying light pressure to the syringe so fluid seeps out the hose. Once on, just open the nipple 1/4 of a turn whilst still applying light pressure on the syringe. The syringe will start to compress really easily. Just kep going till the resi is full of clean oil, then lock of the nipple and put the resi cap on. Done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftypiggy Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 Excellent!! A few different ways to try and see which is best for me.. Thanks everyone who helped me out, I really appreciate it. Thanks again, Lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuessenhigh Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 craftypiggy...I will try again...but basically what boofont says. Start at the caliper...(next to disc)...put filled syringe into the nipple hole...undo the nipple bolt, and push the syringe down..therefore pushing the new fluid into the system. You have to..or course open the reservoir lid first..to let the fluid overflow. Rear one is where boofont says...front reservoir is up on the handlebar. If you use DOT 5.1 (little bit expensive) you can let it overflow...it wont damage any paintwork etc. Once you can see the new fluid entering the reservoir...(can be seen by change of clour)...let the reservoir be full of the new fluid, and then close the bleed bolt at the nipple on the calliper..and remove the syringe. Replace diaphragm and cap on the reservoir and away you go. Its easy..quick and always works great for me. Best of all, if there IS any air in the system it will always want to go UP...so because you are reverse bleeding it will just bubble out of the reservoir. With traditional bleeding (if there is air in the system) it is very difficult because you are trying to push the air DOWN and out of the system...which is really defying the laws of science! GOOD LUCK.....hope this helped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftypiggy Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 Cheers Stu, I'm completely clear on what to do now and will order this Shell Dot 5.1 brake fluid in the morning. Lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin j Posted February 23, 2005 Report Share Posted February 23, 2005 I also pull the pads out and put old ones in, or put some plastic wedges between piston and disc, with a bit more space than pad thickness.. If fluid gets on the new pads, they are history. For some reason, I have not found a cleaner to get it out o the friction material in the pads. Do the bleeding, then put in the new pads. Push the brake lever SLOWLY down, but only normal stroke or less. Don't push it fully to end of stroke. Return it up slowly and work the pistons out slowly. One of the regulars (using that term loosely in some ways) posted here about the master cyl piston sucking in air if it was stroked too far. It would create too much suction before uncovering the bleed port in the master cylinder. I have found that to be true-makes sense, the lip seals are designed to seal with pressure on the inside of lip, not from the outside. It explains some very persistent air problems. Since using this method, I have 'less' hell with rear brakes. the only redeeming feature for rear drums. kcj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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