swag Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 i im new to osets and have got a 16" 36v but the battery life seems to not last for most the day what batterys would i need to get to make it last longer or just spare ones but i cant seem to find them anywhere and i dont want to buy the wrong ones and blow the motor :L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awdrocks Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 These batterys may just about be ok for the stock 12.5 as the controller will be limited to around 15A and the performance SHOULD NOT taper off like the SLA but it really depends if the manufacture is being absolute with the specs, ( many battery manufactures will slightly big up the spec of there battery's) . the EathX ETX12A looks like it will be more suitable as the spec says that it has a cold crank current of 120A which will be fine for the stock osets and they also say they are 12ah , so a extra bit of run time over the stock battery. you will need 3 of these battery's to make up the voltage to run the 36v bikes. Any oset running 36v will be fine running 3 of these battery's as regards the controllers. To get the run time your after you need to be looking at using the EathX ETX18's ( any of the 3 types will do ) this will give you approx what you are after, or better still go for the 24ah ( but watch that the physical sizes will still fit into the bikes ). Lipos do still taper off ( maybe only 4-5v) but nowhere near as bad as sla but lipo do get to a point and the voltage will drop like a stone but if the battery has a bms then the bms should turn the battery off to prevent over discharge. those EathX batterys do look like a very good turnkey solution as replacement battery's for the osets for people that dont want to go down the soft pack lipos. Hello, Hoping someone can shed some light here. I installed the three batterys from the 36v 16'' into the 12.5'' to do a free "test" 36v run on the 12.5''. The controlls turn on, but no wheel spin. They are the stock 12v 10ah batterys from our 16''. I connected them I believe correctly just as the 16'' batteries are connected. I looped one of them out for 24v and works perfectly, as soon as I loop the third battery in it has no wheel spin. Here is a picture: Any ideas? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) it looks like you have wired the batterys up ok, assuming that the neg of the pack goes to the thick black wire on the bike ( I cant see from the picture as its behind the relay ). As far as I know there is not a over voltage cut out on these controllers so in theory should work. Do it still work on the 24v even after you have tried the 36v ? ( just wondering if something have gone pop, I hope not ) .The only thing I can suggest at the moment is put the 36v directly into the controller via the big red and black wires and try ( assuming it still works with 24v ) this will bypass the relay/keyswitch and associated wiring. edit: just thought with it all connected put a voltmeter on the output of the 36v battery setup and so the controller turns on watch the voltage as you twist the throttle do it still read 36v+ or do it drop ? Edited December 23, 2012 by gwhy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awdrocks Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 it looks like you have wired the batterys up ok, assuming that the neg of the pack goes to the thick black wire on the bike ( I cant see from the picture as its behind the relay ). As far as I know there is not a over voltage cut out on these controllers so in theory should work. Do it still work on the 24v even after you have tried the 36v ? ( just wondering if something have gone pop, I hope not ) .The only thing I can suggest at the moment is put the 36v directly into the controller via the big red and black wires and try ( assuming it still works with 24v ) this will bypass the relay/keyswitch and associated wiring. edit: just thought with it all connected put a voltmeter on the output of the 36v battery setup and so the controller turns on watch the voltage as you twist the throttle do it still read 36v+ or do it drop ? Yes the rear black wire is going to the back negative. Yes when switching from 24v to 36v the 24v will keep working so nothing popped. I just simply disconnect that back batteries positive from the top battery and loop the front batteries negative to the rear batteries positive. I also turned the potensiometer (sp) back and forth. I will try the volt meter. I need to go buy one. Assuming it drops voltage what would that mean? The batteries are pretty much brand new and work great on the 36v, and are topped off. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) if it drops then your connection loop lead may have a high resistance, this will mean that the voltage will drop to a very low voltage that may not be enough to power the motor, other than that ( unless it is a faulty battery, (very unlikey) you can test this just by using a different pair for the 24v setup ) I cant really think what else can cause this, perhaps someone can confirm that they have run a 24v bike on 36v as It just may be something by design in the controller. Edited December 23, 2012 by gwhy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betarambo Posted January 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 I ran my kid's 16" 24V on 36V of lipo for a couple years with no issues. I did it on 9s lipos so it should be 37.8 volts hot off the charger. I think gwhy is onto the issue. The relay may not be happy with it. Do you hear the relay click? Also, I would guess that 12V SLA batteries hot off the charger might have 13V so maybe you have 39V and you are right at the limit somehow. I would bypass the relay and see how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogger Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 (edited) It seems the cold weather is affecting the batteries by not giving as much runtime as we would like so I have ordered another bunch of packs to make up another battery for the Oset 20. 6 x 4S1P 8000mAh packs (http://www.hobbyking...idproduct=16226) and 6 x low voltage alarms (http://www.hobbyking...idproduct=18987) Watch this space for pics! Edited January 14, 2013 by frogger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 The cold weather really do effect the run time on all my bikes, I guestimate if the temp is below 10'ish then I am loosing around 10-15% of my capacity which is not good :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogger Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 The cold weather really do effect the run time on all my bikes, I guestimate if the temp is below 10'ish then I am loosing around 10-15% of my capacity which is not good :-( Yes, I was surprised how quick they ran out on Sunday. We had a whole day planned but called it the day at around 13:30 after starting riding at 10am. We got around 50mins out of the lead acid packs and around 2hrs out of the lipo's. Also the first time we ran the lipo's down enough to activate the low voltage alarms. It was great to see the whole system function exactly how it should. I don't know if using hand warmers around and on top of the pack would help extend the battery life on really cold days (http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/270912630057?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&cbt=y) but I do know that would be bloody expensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogger Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 (edited) New 4 cell packs are here. Starting to put them together. Still waiting on the low voltage cut offs. Hard cased, carry handle. Just need the parallel connectors and low voltage cut offs. The charging station. 5 x FMA Cellpro Multi 4S chargers. Edited January 17, 2013 by frogger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awdrocks Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 I ran my kid's 16" 24V on 36V of lipo for a couple years with no issues. I did it on 9s lipos so it should be 37.8 volts hot off the charger. I think gwhy is onto the issue. The relay may not be happy with it. Do you hear the relay click? Also, I would guess that 12V SLA batteries hot off the charger might have 13V so maybe you have 39V and you are right at the limit somehow. I would bypass the relay and see how it works. Yeah not sure. Maybe the new controllers are set up differently? I''ll see about eliminatinig the relay. For now, the 12.5 has the full 36v setup, throttle and controller with the three 10amp batteries from the 16. It HALLS! Still need to get the lipos though. Has anyone ever tried 48v on the 36v controller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awdrocks Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 betarambo Yes the relay does activate. Even the throttle lights turn on as if everything is working, but the twist of the throttle is dead, as if the limiter was all the way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awdrocks Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 I ran my kid's 16" 24V on 36V of lipo for a couple years with no issues. I did it on 9s lipos so it should be 37.8 volts hot off the charger. I think gwhy is onto the issue. The relay may not be happy with it. Do you hear the relay click? Also, I would guess that 12V SLA batteries hot off the charger might have 13V so maybe you have 39V and you are right at the limit somehow. I would bypass the relay and see how it works. Well I bypassed the relay and same thing. With no relay, 24v works fine, as soon as I add the third battery no more wheel spin. The throttle lights up with 24-36v, but just no wheel spin on 36v. Even ran down it batteries while on 24v to bring the volts down. With both 24v-36v I can hear a click inside the controller when first connected. No idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awdrocks Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 The only thing I can suggest at the moment is put the 36v directly into the controller via the big red and black wires and try ( assuming it still works with 24v ) this will bypass the relay/keyswitch and associated wiring. Just tried this, and also nothing. 24v yes, 36v no wheel spin but all else does turn on. I guess the only conclustion is that the newer 36v controllers do have a safe guard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Just tried this, and also nothing. 24v yes, 36v no wheel spin but all else does turn on. I guess the only conclustion is that the newer 36v controllers do have a safe guard. Yes it looks that way, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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