Oset Batteries Lithium (LiPo) Conversion Directions

[thepod]

The pack in the link will not supply enough current for reliable operation,  The bms has a spec of constant 20A peak 35A, for a 16 I would guestimate you would need at least constant of 40A peak 80A ( but this still may not be enough , its a gamble).

 

The storage issues will be the same for any soft pouch Li chemistry , and charging can be as simple as turnkey ..   

 

 

thanks Gwhy.  Perhaps I'll look a little more closely at the lipos.  Here's another quick question for you all.

 

I just noticed that the oset bike I got used does not have a potentiometer in it.  I'm assuming then that it's running at at full speed and power.   The potentiometer is listed in the manual as a 22 Kohm.  I'm not sure I'm going to replace it, but if ai did, any reason to think I'd need to go higher (or lower) with a 6s lipo configuation

[gwhy]

look at the lifepo4's, and the bms's as my last couple of posts, this is the easiest  and cheapest turnkey solution... make 2x 12v batterys ( what ever capacity you need, they come as 4ah and 8ah ) and treat them as 2 seperate 12v batterys exactly the same as you current batterys. a 4ah 12v lifepo4 battery will be eqivelent to about a 8ah sla in this aplication i would go for the 8ah option then add to them if needed

Edited January 17, 2016 by gwhy

[gwhy]

 lv alarms will only be connected when riding ( bike is in use ) they will need to be removed when balance charging the battery's.. You dont need a watt meter permanently on the bike but it is a very useful tool to have for fault finding and making sure the bike is running as it should be, so well worth having in the tool box anyway. cell checker are again just very useful for testing batterys to find any potential problems, Cell checkers are basically a LV alarm but with a display of each voltage for each cell..

 

Watt meter :  http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__75951__Turnigy_180A_Watt_Meter_and_Power_Analyzer_UK_Warehouse_.html

 

 

Watt meter with 6 cell checker : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26011__HobbyKing_HK_010_Wattmeter_Voltage_Analyzer_UK_Warehouse_.html

 

Cell checker : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__75947__Cellmaster_7_Digital_Battery_Health_Checker_UK_Warehouse_.html

 

Cell checker : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31811__HobbyKing_8482_Battery_Medic_System_2S_6S_UK_Warehouse_.html

 

lv alarm :   http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45911__HobbyKing_8482_Lipoly_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2s_6s_UK_Warehouse_.html

 

lv alarm : 

  http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42953__HobbyKing_8482_Cell_Checker_with_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2S_8S_UK_Warehouse_.html

 

When Buying lipos make sure you buy lots of spare plugs and sockets ( the same as what is on the batterys ) to make up the wiring harness as pre made wirings is not always available for some lipo plugs.  its sometimes easier to make adaptors than change plugs and sockets on the batterys and/or on the bike/charger leads.

[bikepilot]

I have my sons 12.5 running on a 6s4p 18650 cell pack (made from salvaged Tesla cells). Theoretically it should be a little less sensitive than a lipo pack. No BMS at present so I charge with an RC balance charger and leave a cell checker/of alarm on the balance plug when in use. Total weight is 3lbs and it shod be good for about 12ah.

[greg555]

I have my sons 12.5 running on a 6s4p 18650 cell pack (made from salvaged Tesla cells). Theoretically it should be a little less sensitive than a lipo pack. No BMS at present so I charge with an RC balance charger and leave a cell checker/of alarm on the balance plug when in use. Total weight is 3lbs and it shod be good for about 12ah.

 

Can u post a picture? 

So funny, today I thought about this thread because im in the process of taking apart a Fiat 500e battery and was thinking if these cells would fit my boys Oset 16's

[bikepilot]

Wow that's cool! Ill have to take a picture. Right now it's just a wrapped 18650 pack. There is a fellow on endless sphere who sells the Tesla cells and he was nice enough to put the pack together. What sort of cells does the Fiat use?

[greg555]

Bosch

[sheadaniel]

Having a hard time making sense of all of this info but need a solution quickly. Please let me know if anyone is interested in assembling/integrating the wiring/BMS/charger needed to upgrade an OSET 12.5 to LiFePo. I'm located in Texas USA. 

 

Thank you to anyone willing to help.

Edited October 25, 2016 by sheadaniel

[mattpatt]

Hi there forum readers and contributors, this is my first post, so please excuse my ignorance.

I just joined after pouring over this thread and trying to figure out what my options are for converting a 2013 Oset 20.0 48V to Lithium batteries.

 

I'm based in WA State, near Seattle, and I have a question about a turnkey product which I found  
http://www.electricrider.com/Lightweight-Lithium-Manganese-48V-10AH-Battery-p/lim4810-26.htm

 

Would this work for the 20.0?  From what I gather, this battery produces 50A peak / 30A cont.  Would that be enough juice? 

 

Seems like all the talk here is around LiPo and LiFePo, but this is Lithium-Manganese,  so are they a suitable alternative for this application?  They say it's a weight/lifetime trade-off... I might be willing to make that, particularly if I need to go up to a 20ah configuration to get the output this bike needs (starts to get heavy....)

 

The price of those units are also a bit higher than I would like, can anyone suggest a more affordable option here in the USA?

 

Thanks!

Edited November 1, 2016 by mattpatt

[gwhy]

50 peak, 30 cont on a 20.0 will not be good enough you need to be looking for at least 100 peak minimum (may be even 150 ) , these specs will be goverened buy the BMS that is in the battery itself. 

Edited November 2, 2016 by gwhy

[mattpatt]

Thanks @gwhy!  That's good to know.  Can I ask a really dumb question?  If I had two of these 50A peak batteries wired in parallel, would that pack be deliver the necessary 100A? 

http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs/52v/52v-mighty-mini-cube-samsung-ebike-battery-pack-30q-6ah-3-pounds/

 

Also, do you know if the Oset controller/motor/etc can handle 52V?

 

Thanks!

 

--matt

[gwhy]

if its a 48v controller then it should be ok.. but dont quote me on that.. it should be good upto around 65v max  . the problem with running a higher voltage than the controller is designed for is that the LVC will not kick in to protect the batterys so it will be nessersary to have a battery with a built in bms .

yes 2 bats in P will be 100 peak but this still may not be enough especially if you are planning on 52v . also you will need to be carfully that the motor dont get to hot with the extra power

Edited November 4, 2016 by gwhy

[hosko11]

Great forum, great thread!

 

Using HK Multistar High Capacity batteries (4s and 6s) was raised 12 months ago, but for use with a 16.0 (http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/34845-oset-batteries-lithium-lipo-conversion-directions/?p=414419)

 

I'm planning to convert a 2015 20.0 Eco to lipo (15-20Ah capacity) and had come across these batteries thinking they looked like good options when bundled to 12s - which led me to this thread.

 

Option 1 - 20,000mAh 6S 10C 6S1P - https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-6s-20000mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html

Option 2 - 16,000mAh 6S 10C 6S2P - https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-6s-16000mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html

 

Given ghwy's feedback to the post and the wealth of other information embedded throughout this thread, I'm unsure if they're really a great fit for the 20.0 and am looking for a sanity check of my plan.

 

I've read;

 - Oset 20.0 Eco (1200W motor) is capable of pulling a peak current of 100A, possibly 150A - so I'll assume 150A

 - Multistar's C rating of 10C/20C is unlikely - 2C/5C seems more real world and will base battery build on that

 - Therefore discharge rates are;

  - 20,000mAh packs

     - Constant - 20,000*2C/1000 = 40A 

     - Peak - 20,000*5C/1000 = 100A 

  - 16,000mAh packs

     - Constant - 16,000*2C/1000 = 32A

     - Peak - 16,000*5C/1000 = 80A 

  

For the 20.0, am I right in thinking with the 6S packs to not exceed 5C (a 150A peak current being drawn) I would need to build two parallel 2x20,000mAh bundles (doubling the discharge rates) to then run in series to get 12s (~48V)?  Using a total of 4 packs for a 12S battery with a whopping 40,000mAh, allowing a constant discharge rate of 80A and a very comfortable peak of 200A?

 

The alternative of using 16,000mAh 6S would reduce the overall size and weight, but with a still massive 32,000mAh 12S battery allowing a constant discharge rate of 64A and a very comfortable peak of 160A.  Is 64A for these 20.0 48V Osets getting a little low?

 

Do I have the correct understanding and math on the battery build and resultant capacity?  If so, I think it's back to the drawing board and find a higher C pack.

 

Open to any and all suggestions or criticisms.

 

Cheers,

Hosko

 

[gwhy]

you are correct about down grade the advertised C ratings of these batterys  but..

dont get to bogged down by them . its all about internal temps and what is acceptable.

A motor only pulls its max current when stalled or initially when under load ( current limitied by the controller ) if the C rating is exceded then the battery will warm up and the battery needs time to cool back down again  normal running will only pull around 30-50A on average thats a peak of around 2kw. a higher C rating battery will have a better lifecycle but will not nessersary be any better for performance or battery safety as its all about how hot the batterys get when in use, you may gain a little bit more performance with a higher C rating due to the fact that the voltage sag should not be so low.

 

so in a nut shell yes the higher the C rating the better for the lifecycle of the batterys and a very small increase in performance.  

[hosko11]

you are correct about down grade the advertised C ratings of these batterys  but..

dont get to bogged down by them . its all about internal temps and what is acceptable.

A motor only pulls its max current when stalled or initially when under load ( current limitied by the controller ) if the C rating is exceded then the battery will warm up and the battery needs time to cool back down again  normal running will only pull around 30-50A on average thats a peak of around 2kw. a higher C rating battery will have a better lifecycle but will not nessersary be any better for performance or battery safety as its all about how hot the batterys get when in use, you may gain a little bit more performance with a higher C rating due to the fact that the voltage sag should not be so low.

 

so in a nut shell yes the higher the C rating the better for the lifecycle of the batterys and a very small increase in performance.  

 

 

Gwhy, thanks for the response.  Got momentarily distracted by work and life, but back on to this project now.

 

Assuming I go with the 4x 16,000mAh 6S to build out a 32,000mAh 12S pack does it matter if I connect them in series first and then parallel?  I don't see any impact to the calculations of the packs - the constant discharge rate of 64A and peak of 160A would seem to stay the same - or am I missing something?

 

Reason I ask is I can get hold of 2 well priced 48V (adjustable) CC/CV power supplies to bulk charge, but they're only rated to 240W/5A so was thinking of connecting each of the 2 packs as 12s and then to parallel to simplify the disconnecting for bulk charging to the 2 chargers.

 

Hope this makes sense.

 

Cheers,

Hosko