scotty97 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Chewy I don't get wot Ur trying to say?? Flywheel has been taken off, and there's defo no spark!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 Fuel pipe routing can be critical to keep it off the muff and no kinks, make a "loop" and route it forward towadr and just away from the cyl, then back up/ over and down to the carb inlet. Takes about 6 inches as I recall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty97 Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 (edited) Took some readings on the stator Multimeter set on diode check mode Black on earth, red on plug terminal Blue 0 Brown. 0 Black. 0 Red on earth, black on plug terminal Blue. 641 Brown. 0 Black. 772 Resistance readings of other coils White to red. 95 ohms Red to green. 526 ohms Green to White. 609 Kohms ??? Spoke to boys at sp#tshop and they said that going by the readings, it looks like it's gone faulty!!! Anyone have similar readings to this when theirs went faulty??? Edited May 11, 2011 by scotty97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Took some readings on the stator Multimeter set on diode check mode Black on earth, red on plug terminal Blue 0 Brown. 0 Black. 0 Red on earth, black on plug terminal Blue. 641 Brown. 0 Black. 772 Resistance readings of other coils White to red. 95 ohms Red to green. 526 ohms Green to White. 609 Kohms ??? Spoke to boys at sp#tshop and they said that going by the readings, it looks like it's gone faulty!!! Anyone have similar readings to this when theirs went faulty??? Based upon your middle readings of 641,0,772, you need a hall sensor. Splat can supply an exchange I think. This is not a re-wind, but a hall sensor breakdown. And luckily easier to detect, providind your reads are accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty97 Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 So does that mean I can just swap out the 'hall sensor' or do I have to exchange the stator??? Can't find any info on hall sensor on Splatshop website?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 So does that mean I can just swap out the 'hall sensor' or do I have to exchange the stator??? Can't find any info on hall sensor on Splatshop website?? Stator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty97 Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Cheers cope, just got off the phone to Splatshop, they got one there on the shelf, so I'm exchanging my faulty one!! Fingers crossed now!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Cheers cope, just got off the phone to Splatshop, they got one there on the shelf, so I'm exchanging my faulty one!! Fingers crossed now!!!!!! Good deal. Chris is doing a great job at keeping exchange stators on hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty97 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Well, fitted the new stator and she started 2nd kick. Yippee!!! Right found a few other things that I'm goin to sort at the same time, wires have been butchered to remove lights etc, so hopefully get a new harness for emergency stop. One of the dog bones bearings is knocking, I serviced these a few months back and repacked with grease so I think they may need changing now, luckily got a full set ordered through work a while ago, just in case!! And the problem with my pinky/tan oil, mechanic reckons it doesn't seem like water in it as it normally goes milky/frothy?? Rad is holding it's water level, so any ideas???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caddabs Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Good news My water pump seals went and the oil initially came out grey then turned the same colour as galaxy chocolate. That would be my guess, or else you might have sucked some water up through the breather pipe? good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty97 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 (edited) Can you change the seals by just opening the water pump or do you have to remove the engine side cover? Is it just changing the 2 seals or the bearing aswel???? Edited May 24, 2011 by scotty97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Can you change the seals by just opening the water pump or do you have to remove the engine side cover? Is it just changing the 2 seals or the bearing aswel???? Good you got'er up and running! Na, you gotta the cover. There is a good guide in the tech tips pinned above with pics for pump seals.. Mind you, the case vent tube really needs to run up and held over the carb, then back down to skidplate level as so shock cooling from water crossings hopefully does not cause water to be sucked back up and into the gearbox. All said, still no submarine! Fluid changes apply under these conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty97 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Ok il have a read of it now. I thought it's best to change them cos a few wks before I had my problem, I had to top rad up, but I used it once or twice after that and the rad level seemed to stay level. So know I sorted the stator I thought I'd change the seals aswel, better to be safe and all that!!! Ordered seals, bearing, water pump cover oring and clutch case gasket. Service my linkages to as noticed a bearing had a fair bit of movement and was knocking when I put bike up on van. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty97 Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Finally spent the day working on the bike, started with changing water pump seals, followed the guide in the pinned section and it was quite straight forward. Then I tackled the electrics, ripped out all the wires that wasn't bring used, old light harness etc and replaced with the little harness from the Splatshop, much neater. Then it was linkage bearings, managed to change the dog bone bearings but struggled to get the two bearings out from under the swinging arm, so have to get some threaded rod and try them again. Also fitted new chain guide as it was worn through. Hopefully take it out for a hour this wk sometime and make sure it's running ok, and then I got some boysen reeds and slow throttle to have a play about with, also want to try retarding timing slightly!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty97 Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Got out on the bike today, finally!! Nice weather for it to, got a few miles from the house, and had a puncture in the front tyre!! Gutted, I'm sure my bike is jinxed?? Ha On my motox I used to buy extra thick inner tubes,, can you get these for trials bikes??????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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