yamxj Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 can anyone tell me if the clutch basket fron a contact 200 will fit my 2000 280 . i will be doing slave cylinder rubbers this week when the parts come then i will have done just about everything new plates master cylinder re build at the end of my tether Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godzilla Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 can anyone tell me if the clutch basket fron a contact 200 will fit my 2000 280 . i will be doing slave cylinder rubbers this week when the parts come then i will have done just about everything new plates master cylinder re build at the end of my tether Did you put new springs in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamxj Posted February 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 no not yet i will start on the internals if the slave cylinder dose'nt change anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamxj Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 i have now done the slave cylinder and the clutch is still dragging what can i try now ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 (edited) i have now done the slave cylinder and the clutch is still dragging what can i try now ? Im going to dare jump in, this "continued" (but from where) thread, and ask you: What oil are you using, are you riding trials with it, and how much oil did you put in it? that older engine, hardly ever recall it dragging, and if it is it was soo slight, I got used to it so quickly it didnt bother me anymore. plus all the newer bikes from GG drag ever so slightly, I wonder if it was so the gearbox was loaded instead of fear of "gears slapping" when you dumped the clutch at 12,000 rpms (or whatever the pro level riders do it at, you seen vids, you know they scream them...) For Trials usage ONLY: use automatic transmission fluid, Ive always used Type F, and I think you dont use synthetic on them old bikes, I think the seals in the slave cylinder could be affected, as far as I know. JSE will come along and correct me if I was worng on that one. the thinner AFT type F We used seems to let the plates slip easier, I guess the thickness of molecules? With that: I believe you need to measure 450 cc's of that fluid, which can allieviate 1% (minimal amount is my point) of "dragging" because the oil is somehow pushing the higher levels of oil, like a pump when clutch is fully pulled... if you arent doing trials, I would NOT do the above, because is a lot less oil in trans area than website now says, but I have this neat flyer I printed off gasgas website back in 02, that says 450cc is the setup, in the 99 txt 321 that I had. Edited March 2, 2011 by Sting32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamxj Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 thanks for that very interesting info i will try changing to ATF i am using light gear oil i was told at my local trials shop this is what the old motor needs . to go back to what i have done when i got the bike the clutch dragged so new plates went in no change i have done both master cylinder and slave cylinder rubbers still no change the bike creeps forward if i let brakes off thank you for your time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 (edited) thanks for that very interesting info i will try changing to ATF i am using light gear oil i was told at my local trials shop this is what the old motor needs . to go back to what i have done when i got the bike the clutch dragged so new plates went in no change i have done both master cylinder and slave cylinder rubbers still no change the bike creeps forward if i let brakes off thank you for your time No problem about the time, as you know hard to diagnose let alone recall the same type of bike I had (99txt300). I just dont remember there being a big clutch dragging problem, but then again I came from a 79 Bultaco sherpa-t to the 99 300, the sherpa-t with a few mods to help make the clutch "pull" easier meant a lot of compromises... For one, since the leverage was increased so you could almost pull it with one finger, it would drag. when you went to start it, it would slip, so you would adjust the cable adjuster so it would catch enough to start the bike. I know this throws a lot of guys off, if they come from Honda/Montesa's as the clutch definitely doesnt drag, one buddy already left gasgas for a beta, I dont know if that clutch or how it works either, havent heard him complain, but again all of these I know are the 06-12 Pro Engines. as I have stated, I am NOT positive you will eliminate the drag. but I do recall what I said before about using less oil and as I found that info out many years ago, it was becuase of drag... What you will find though is, you'll use rear the brake all the time to stop the bike from creeping, in the sections anyway, and to me it makes it easier to balance when the bike has ever so slight load on it. shift to neutral as you come to a stop, instead of waiting until you stop, tricks like that work well. Hope this helps, and I wish I had better news/info but that said again, it has been a while. might message JSE at some point, he is/was a very knowledgable GasGas tech, as seen from the gasgas.com website where most of the tech info he helped or wrote. 2 more radical ideas, I guess. IF there is ANY damage to the clutch line? WHY? if the fluid "expands" the line instead of the line being pretty rigid, the ever so small amount of pressure/volume of fluids being pushed to the slave, would be decreased significantly proportional if it expands at all instead of forcing the pressure to goto the slave where motion would be beneficial... 2 and of course you make darn sure you have "some" free play as well as adjust the lever to "at rest" be farther away from the bars, gives you more fluid movement of course, because you add to the stroke. Example: with my kid, when he was under 12 years old, & with small hands, we adjusted the levers at rest, to be closer to the bars, when you let go of the clutch lever, this meant there again would be some compromise, because when he pulled the lever 1 inch less distance the clutch would not disengage as far as it would with levers adjusted like he does now at almost 17 (much bigger hands and longer fingers) with longer throw on the master-cyl. good luck. Edited March 3, 2011 by Sting32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamxj Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 thanks for your input that is a good point about the fluid line i may as well give it a go a friend of mine rides a 300 pro and he says his clutch drags very slightly has done from new i might just have to put up with it until i can afford a beta thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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