insultaco Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Thanks Paul, I think its where it needs to be now, but I'll work out the X' degree marks using the maths above and see where it comes out, just so I know. I love this forum, I get to learn foreign language, witness arguements and handshakes and now I've added O level maths back in to my vocabulary. Nice one. As far as the electronic v's standard ignition, I've just got it back together and it definately starts easier than before and that was on brand new "every thing", but the LT circuit was shot so would only deliver the spark when it wanted to, but when it worked before it worked well. The starting is a major plus so far, but if I never have to take the left case off to sort the points or swap condensor again, it will be too soon. Thanks again Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 As I understand it you watch the strobe move round the flywheel, as the revs rise it will move round until it reaches a maximum advance and then as the revs rise furtehr to flat out it will move back again. you need to adjust the revs so that it is at the peak maximum advance (which will not be flat out) and then set the stator so that the strobe is on the 22' BTDC mark. Then when idling the strobe should be around teh 10' mark. It sounds as if you are pretty close anyway. Regards Paul C Finding exact TDC is key. Using your guage, find a mark at say 1mm both before and after TDC. then split the difference. This will eliminate error due to piston dwell in the top of the arc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cunpr Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Finding exact TDC is key. Using your guage, find a mark at say 1mm both before and after TDC. then split the difference. This will eliminate error due to piston dwell in the top of the arc. Nice tip! thanks, allways thought about that but never been clever enough to work out how to compensate. Just shows how usefull this forum is. Paul C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketaco Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Is there any difference between the electrex ignition and the ignition set available from bultaco uk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 They are different designs but probably achieve the same result. The Bultaco UK one is much easier to fit as it has a fixed stator position and then a three way adjustment for static timing position. The Electrex ignition sounds very time consuming from the advice given above. Rex Caunt also does one (possibly the same as the Bultaco UK ignition) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motovita Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 a fixed stator position and then a three way adjustment for static timing position. Can you explain that adjustment? I can't picture it in my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Can you explain that adjustment? I can't picture it in my head. The backplate is a fixed position with screw holes instead of slots to fix it to the crankcase. Another plate with the source coil attached is screwed to the backplate. The positioning of this plate onto the backplate is set by the manufacturer to the recommended setting. However, it is adjustable as the fixing screws sit in slots which have 3 notches so the plate can be rotated left or right of the centre notch to fine tune the timing to individual preference. If it is the same as the Rex Caunt one, you have a choice of locating holes in the backplate (3 I think) So by using the far left holes the ignition can be further retarded, by using the far right holes it can be further advanced. So basically, you fit it, fire it up and try it. If it is ok you leave it, if you want it sharper you can advance it, softer you can retard it by rotating the second plate on its fixing screws. Hope this makes sense, maybe the attached picture explains it better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
insultaco Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Woody is right from my (very) limited experience, the Electrex system on mine has not needed touching to be fair, i just followed the instructions and when strobed it was bang on where it needed to be, but the 'mare of working out degrees v's BTDC is not something I like spending my days getting my head around. I believe the BultacoUK option is the real "plug and play" solution between the two. From what I've seen/heard/learnt over the past week, the BultacoUK option is the one I'd go for if I were doing it again, as it was I saved less than Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motovita Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 Woody is right from my (very) limited experience, the Electrex system on mine has not needed touching to be fair, i just followed the instructions and when strobed it was bang on where it needed to be, but the 'mare of working out degrees v's BTDC is not something I like spending my days getting my head around. I believe the BultacoUK option is the real "plug and play" solution between the two. From what I've seen/heard/learnt over the past week, the BultacoUK option is the one I'd go for if I were doing it again, as it was I saved less than Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple_x Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 Hi Point 1 = Fit and forget Point 2 = Engine starts better Point 3 = Engine delivers it's power in a much more usable way. But remember a good rider will still win with either points or electronic ignition. No pun intended by the three points above!!!!! Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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