wahonda Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 Hi, Has anybody changed anything from standard, on an Evo 4t 300, gearing etc.First ride today and seems a bit "twitchy" on slow tight turns. Also fid it easy to stall compared to the 4rt. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benbeta23 Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 Hi, If you put the bike into mode 2 It helps it from stalling as it advances the ignition & increases the tickover, It's a bit more snappy, But my dad finds on his 300 it doesn't stall as easy in sections as it does when in mode 1. Or you could just get used to the bike a bit more as they are very different to a Mont. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzralphy Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 Ring Lampkins in UK. I did and they gave me some good tips on setting things up. Such as open the idle mixture screw to stop it stalling (get a Jitse mixture screw for the carb) and i raised the needle as far as it would go - the bike is sent from the factory lean to pass emissions testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spike123 Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Hi, Has anybody changed anything from standard, on an Evo 4t 300, gearing etc.First ride today and seems a bit "twitchy" on slow tight turns. Also fid it easy to stall compared to the 4rt. Mike Had the same issue on my Evo 4t 300 and put a larger rear sprocket on 44tooth from the original 42 and it made all the difference in tight slow turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 ive just turned the tickover up on mine, and its very hard to stall, i also keep it in map one jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimg Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 My 2010 300 4t also seemed to stall more than expected when I first got it. After about 20 hours of engine "break in" the stalls significantly decreased. Additionally, keep the tick-over (idle) up, use a NGK iridium plug, and run fresh gas. I also changed the pilot and main jet, as it was to lean from factory. My bike runs great now and stalling incidents are not unexpected and I'm very pleased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wahonda Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 (edited) My 2010 300 4t also seemed to stall more than expected when I first got it. After about 20 hours of engine "break in" the stalls significantly decreased. Additionally, keep the tick-over (idle) up, use a NGK iridium plug, and run fresh gas. I also changed the pilot and main jet, as it was to lean from factory. My bike runs great now and stalling incidents are not unexpected and I'm very pleased. Hi,have already raised the needle to the top, set the mixture sccrew four turns out and increased the tickover. What did size did you change the jets to? We have a trial this weekend so I'll see how she go's, would'nt want to try to pull the carb out again if possile. Mike Edited March 22, 2011 by wahonda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimg Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 My riding elevation is usually around 1,000 feet or 305 meters. I am very particular when setting up my bikes; most may feel the bike doesn't need any change. My main jet is a 135 and pilot is 22.5. If I recall, needle clip is in 2nd or 3rd position from top. Mixture screw (Jitse) is between 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 out; depending on temperature. Also, at new, my bike was "twitchy"...this also cleared as more time on the bike and a few oil changes. Use premium synthetic engine oil. I also did the Dan Williams clutch modification this past winter and added .380mm spacers/washers to clutch springs. I find stock gearing awesome, but suiting to your riding style is very important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 i spoke to lampkins about the jet on my 2010 3004t and the told me to leave it all alone and just turn the mixture screw out 3 1/2 turns, as i messed about with the carb set up on my rev 4 300. but the evo seems fine as it is. as for the clutch mod a friend of mine swears by replacing the clutch master cylinder for one off a 2004 beta as it holds more liquid and the bore is bigger jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wahonda Posted March 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 i spoke to lampkins about the jet on my 2010 3004t and the told me to leave it all alone and just turn the mixture screw out 3 1/2 turns, as i messed about with the carb set up on my rev 4 300. but the evo seems fine as it is. as for the clutch mod a friend of mine swears by replacing the clutch master cylinder for one off a 2004 beta as it holds more liquid and the bore is bigger jsp Can you still get 2004 parts? and where did you end up with the needle setting? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 (edited) as far as i am aware you can still get all the spares, my mate just bought one and now keeps taking it from bike to bike. cant remember where i ended up with the needle on the rev 4 but the info is on here somewhere as well. i ve let the evo alone and touch wood it never misses a beat jsp Edited March 23, 2011 by jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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