Chain Cleaning.

[jtt]

Using WD40 on your chain, you might as well be lubing it with gasoline. WD stands for "water displacing". It is a very poor lubricant and certainly no match for the loads put on a chain. So why does it seem to work? Because it is also a very effective solvent. The chain is clean and doesn't attract dirt that forms the grinding paste, as was mentioned. Still doesn't lubricate work spit, but the fact the chain is clean helps alot.

If you choose to use traditional sticky chain lubes, the key is to clean the chain at each bike cleaning, dry it, then apply the lube spareingly to the area between the links (pins). Then give the wheel a quick spin and wipe off the excess with a rag. Lube on the outside of the chain does nothing for the chain except collect dirt. Where you want the lube is inside those pins and bushings.

If you want easier clean up and a superior chain lube that is very affordably priced, I suggest you try MX1000. A very good product, providing excellent lubrication, water dispersing and it's a dry film lube, so no collecting grit. Cleans up with soapy water and a brush.

[charliechitlins]

Then give the wheel a quick spin and wipe off the excess with a rag.

Careful there.

I've seen several fingers jammed between chain and sprocket like that.

Right uncomfortable, that.

[hrc2002]

I let the chain soak in white gas (Coleman lantern fuel(very flamable USE ONLY OUT DOORS)) then use several rounds of Foamy Engine Bright and hot water.  I dry the chain with a heat gun to get the water out and spray it with chain wax while it is still hot.  Chain always looks brand new.  I also clean the chain guides and the sprockets with an old sock.  I twist the sock tightly and draw it between the teeth of the rear sprocket.

Here is a previous thread.

Ciao

DFW

Chain cleaning thread

Sod that, I jet wash the chain, ride it a few minutes to get the water off, spray some WD40 or chain wax on and that's it.

I'd rather fit a new chain every 6 months than p*** about wiping it's a*** for a year

Well...best reply I've seen on the subject...

Until my chain is in a terrible state I will keep it on and wash it off with hose (or now, Jet wash).

However, in the bad states, I will soak it in that AutoGlym degreaser, wire brush, scrub away...hose it down, soak in old gear oil...apply chain to bike.

I used to **** about for days on end with cleaning the nook and crannys of the chain...but then I have a days ride...look at it, and think 'What a ******* waste of time'.

[elvis]

There seems to be a lot more varyations on the wd40 type lubricant/water dispersant but one I found is made by 3-in-one oils and has ptfe through it. This makes it stick to the chain better but it is still as fine when spraying on as wd40. I know this as the engine is far less splattered with oil compared to when I used wd40.

[jtt]

Careful there.

I've seen several fingers jammed between chain and sprocket like that.

Right uncomfortable, that.

I intended that you spin the wheel, and once it is stopped, wipe the excess. I've got enough finger issues without putting them through the sprockets Both my pinky fingers have been broken and dislocated enough times that neither are fully functioning anymore. Can't straighten them, but I made sure they are bent enough that I can hold handlebars

[craftypiggy]

I used diesel as someone suggested and it worked brilliantly, far better than I expected!! All the crap was left at the bottom of the tub and my chain looked great and had all the grime off it.

Thanks again,

Lloyd

ps. I use chain wax.

Edited March 7, 2005 by craftypiggy

[wonder boy]

Yeah when I was fitting an iris chain to my montesa I read a we leaflet with it and it said is you need to clean it soak it in kerosene or diesel. Never tried it but I will on day.

Gavin

Edited March 7, 2005 by Wonder Boy