merseamudboy Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) As a total and 'matur'e newcomer I had my 1st training day yesterday with my club and had a great time and learnt a lot. General feedback on the bike was that it was quite 'soft' but with plenty of go when needed - ideal. A couple of experienced riders said the gearing was a bit tall. This seemed right to me as clutch out rocky stream beds seemed a bit 'scary' due to the bikes pace in 1st gear. I also stalled it more than once. I'm planning on fitting a 9 tooth gearbox sprocket although some have suggested going for changing the rear sprocket. What'll be best do you think? I could I suppose fit a Renthal rear if only for the bling factor. I've plans to replace the light switch and I've got the wiring harnesses incoming. Is it possible to remove the old switch without removing the grip (that's a new glued on Domino)? I've tried and failed to do this already. Finally, I hear recommendations for changing the jets. The bike is a standard 2010 and is (was) new old stock. What changes are recommended here and what are the benefits? What should I be taking with me in the van? I'm thinking puncture repair here and tools. I know there's a whole host of expertise on here and would value your comments Peter Edited April 3, 2011 by Merseamudboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Lots of thoughts here. A lot is a trade off depending on ability and the terrain you are riding. Add the fact the 2.9 is not the most gentile learners bike. Seems somewhat likely the bike came with a #30 pilot jet which makes things soft off the bottom, maybe not bad in your case, yet does nothing for kickback and stalling. Basic recco here is to slow the ignition timing a bit by anout 3mm counter on the stator plate. I do not normally recco gearing changes, but better clutch usage, at the most 2 teeth up on the rear as compared, this has only half the effect of going to a 9 on front. Use a slow(black) throttle tube. Get some medium Renthal grips and bar ends that fit. Carefully trim out the end of the throttle side grip with a Dremel tool and sanding drum thing till you get your bar end to fit perfect, with proper clearance and no drag. Light oil on the bars. I looked at an old light swich, should come off but you gotta twist it to get it to unlatch the front section once screw out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legaleagle Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Re-route your fuel tank vent to the handlebars from it's current position at rear shock - this stops the tank from emptying itself when the bike falls over. Also the coolant hose that runs behind the front pipe - cable tie some rubber sheet or similar round the coolant hose to protect it from the heat off the exhaust. Have seen a couple 2010's fry this pipe meaning day over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseamudboy Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Lots of thoughts here. A lot is a trade off depending on ability and the terrain you are riding. Add the fact the 2.9 is not the most gentile learners bike. Seems somewhat likely the bike came with a #30 pilot jet which makes things soft off the bottom, maybe not bad in your case, yet does nothing for kickback and stalling. Basic recco here is to slow the ignition timing a bit by anout 3mm counter on the stator plate. I do not normally recco gearing changes, but better clutch usage, at the most 2 teeth up on the rear as compared, this has only half the effect of going to a 9 on front. Use a slow(black) throttle tube. Get some medium Renthal grips and bar ends that fit. Carefully trim out the end of the throttle side grip with a Dremel tool and sanding drum thing till you get your bar end to fit perfect, with proper clearance and no drag. Light oil on the bars. I looked at an old light swich, should come off but you gotta twist it to get it to unlatch the front section once screw out. Many thanks for that, much appreciated. I've already changed to the black throttle body and twisting the switch makes a whole lot of sense now having looked at it carefully before risking breaking it. Stalling is for me a bit of an issue although as you say the bike is soft off the bottom. Any jet/needle changes you'd advise that help with the progression and resist stalling without giving too much of the soft nature away? I'll look at the 'how' in adjusting the timing too. I'm generally quite handy mechanically but it's a new type of bike for me. Riding advice has varied from getting good with clutch use to not using it! Stream beds with small (tiny?) steps and clutch out riding just seems to give too much pace for me. I've fitted some Domino grips with the button ends using Renthal glue so they may have to stay for a bit. They seem pretty good and the throttle is smooth. I've been told I'm too gentle and on watching some video footage last night I'm surprised at how careful I looked on the bike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseamudboy Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Re-route your fuel tank vent to the handlebars from it's current position at rear shock - this stops the tank from emptying itself when the bike falls over. Also the coolant hose that runs behind the front pipe - cable tie some rubber sheet or similar round the coolant hose to protect it from the heat off the exhaust. Have seen a couple 2010's fry this pipe meaning day over. That's a couple of very useful tips there and thanks for that. I did at one point see fuel pouring into the beck from my bike on it's side above me I'll check the hoses out too. Appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseamudboy Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Lots of thoughts here. A lot is a trade off depending on ability and the terrain you are riding. Add the fact the 2.9 is not the most gentile learners bike. Seems somewhat likely the bike came with a #30 pilot jet which makes things soft off the bottom, maybe not bad in your case, yet does nothing for kickback and stalling. Basic recco here is to slow the ignition timing a bit by anout 3mm counter on the stator plate. I do not normally recco gearing changes, but better clutch usage, at the most 2 teeth up on the rear as compared, this has only half the effect of going to a 9 on front. Use a slow(black) throttle tube. Get some medium Renthal grips and bar ends that fit. Carefully trim out the end of the throttle side grip with a Dremel tool and sanding drum thing till you get your bar end to fit perfect, with proper clearance and no drag. Light oil on the bars. I looked at an old light swich, should come off but you gotta twist it to get it to unlatch the front section once screw out. Fitted the racing wiring harness and kill switch today . I had a bit of a panic and thought I was lost but after I'd calmed down a bit I got it done. Needed to make a slight modification as the 2009 harness doesn't quite fit the 2010. Really pleased with the result - got rid of a lot of extraneous wire and switchgear. I also learnt a lot about the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legaleagle Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Also on 2010 bikes - the rear suspension linkage changed from bearings to bushes. The bushes do not have and seals and require stripping and greasing quite often. It's an easy job once you have done it once. I drop the gearbox oil every month and grease up the suspension at the same time. Also - I have found behind the stator cover to get wet - the water gets in through the cable penetration - fill this gap with a good sealant and remove the cover now and again to check there's no moisture - stators are expensive and don't like water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 i found a leaner oil mix runs better on my 2010 290 at low revs to help with the stalling. using 75ml to 5 litres where previously running 100ml. also using a iridium spark plug which seams to be nice. id say the gearing is fine, definately not to tall, you just need to adapt to the bike. i found mine far from soft, very snatchy and a handful to ride, which can be good for a higher level rider. you might be confusing this with the gearing, a change in gearing or fly wheel weight would help this i suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Many thanks for that, much appreciated. I've already changed to the black throttle body and twisting the switch makes a whole lot of sense now having looked at it carefully before risking breaking it. Stalling is for me a bit of an issue although as you say the bike is soft off the bottom. Any jet/needle changes you'd advise that help with the progression and resist stalling without giving too much of the soft nature away? I'll look at the 'how' in adjusting the timing too. I'm generally quite handy mechanically but it's a new type of bike for me. Riding advice has varied from getting good with clutch use to not using it! Stream beds with small (tiny?) steps and clutch out riding just seems to give too much pace for me. I've fitted some Domino grips with the button ends using Renthal glue so they may have to stay for a bit. They seem pretty good and the throttle is smooth. I've been told I'm too gentle and on watching some video footage last night I'm surprised at how careful I looked on the bike Obvoiusly you are still adjusting a bit, which is fine. I think at some point you will need to strip and clean the carby to see what is there in the way of jets. A 30 pilot as supplied can be quite soft, butgoing to a 33-35 range can possibly make things too sharp for the unwary! Gotta keep finger on clutch for smoothness and a snap response if needed. Takes practice. Rocky streams require a lot of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseamudboy Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Also on 2010 bikes - the rear suspension linkage changed from bearings to bushes. The bushes do not have and seals and require stripping and greasing quite often. It's an easy job once you have done it once. I drop the gearbox oil every month and grease up the suspension at the same time. Also - I have found behind the stator cover to get wet - the water gets in through the cable penetration - fill this gap with a good sealant and remove the cover now and again to check there's no moisture - stators are expensive and don't like water. I've done the linkage bearings already but the stator tip is a good one thanks, I'll keep an eye on it and put some silicon around the grommet. I've got gearbox oil to change out after this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseamudboy Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 i found a leaner oil mix runs better on my 2010 290 at low revs to help with the stalling. using 75ml to 5 litres where previously running 100ml. also using a iridium spark plug which seams to be nice. id say the gearing is fine, definately not to tall, you just need to adapt to the bike. i found mine far from soft, very snatchy and a handful to ride, which can be good for a higher level rider. you might be confusing this with the gearing, a change in gearing or fly wheel weight would help this i suppose. One of the very experienced guys running the session on Saturday had a go on the bike and asked what I had done to make it so soft off the bottom. He even said it was softer than the Yamaha 250. I suspect it's the large pilot jet. There's plenty of go once I get to the main jet The transition is prone to stalling in my very limited experience. I think I'm running 80:1 (perhaps a 'little' heavy handed with the oil while the bike is new) Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 i know of a person who just bought one and in the last few months and had problems with stalling, he took it back and it turned out to be jetted for the spanish climate and fuel. incase you havnt already done fit an inline fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lumpylion Posted April 11, 2011 Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 I find the stock footpegs to be quite slippery and I replace them right away. S3 just released their aluminum version of the Hard Rock pegs with steel grip pins and I have to say they look beautiful. Other than some great but "not-so-neccesary" parts, the only really important things would be full length fork guards, bar ends, good grips, and possibly a pipe guard. If the bike came with a fuel filter, beware, the stock ones are dissolved by fuel easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewy Posted April 11, 2011 Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 I find the stock footpegs to be quite slippery and I replace them right away. S3 just released their aluminum version of the Hard Rock pegs with steel grip pins and I have to say they look beautiful. Other than some great but "not-so-neccesary" parts, the only really important things would be full length fork guards, bar ends, good grips, and possibly a pipe guard. If the bike came with a fuel filter, beware, the stock ones are dissolved by fuel easily. How can a manufacturer fit a fuel filter that dissplves in fuel.... not doubting your word just seems a dumb thing for a manufacturer to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseamudboy Posted April 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 How can a manufacturer fit a fuel filter that dissplves in fuel.... not doubting your word just seems a dumb thing for a manufacturer to do. I'm pretty sure it has one as stock. I suppose that these items are bought in and the customer is the one to find out if they don't work Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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