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Beta 2010 Rear Wheel


seanus100
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I have a issue with my rear wheel, all the spokes are leaking, I have bought 2 rim tapes now but they don't seem to fit properly. Do beta wheels need a special rim tape????

Any advice would be good, its a fantastic weekend and i cannot ride..

Thanks

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This is a real issue on these bikes,and other makes, but seems worse on the evo's. Hence the 2011 bike has a 'DID' style rim (made by morad who make the 2010 rims) i have had the problem and eventually got it partially fixed. The nipple heads are too big for the rim tape to sit properly< and the edge of the tape is a real pain to fit correctly into the groove in the rim. Also have a look where the rim is welded together then ground off flat-some are very poor and mean the tape sits even more badly.

There are loads of threads on here about how to 'seal' up the rim tape when you fit it.in theory it should not need sealed, but - Some use just water, some mtb tyre slime, others dry and some seal the spokes with silicone then seal the edges of the tape with a flexible bodypanel pu adhesive such as sikaflex or tigerseal (available at panel factors anywhere). Be aware the pu adhesive is a real pain to get off when dry, much worse than silicone. Some folk grind the nipples heads down a bit then seal up the rim tape. Essentailly this is just a sh!t design for a tubeless rim.

To get out for the weekend just fire a tube in it. Unless you are world class level you will not notice the way it affects the bike. This will get you away. Long term i had john lampkin fit a new rim as mine was particulary wonky at the welds. He then fitted a new rim tape using pu adhesive ( there is an art to this in itself!!). He did this FOC as the bike was relatively new and i am a long standing customer, however i am sure they will sort you out somehow. That said the wheel is now bent as it wasnt trued up and i cant true it as the sealed tape covers the nipples!! It holds air ok now, not well but passable, ie loses couple of lbs over a week at highish pressure. Bear in mind they hold better at higher pressure as the air holds the tape down on the nipples better - lower pressure ie trials conditions and the leaks are bigger!!

you will be very lucky if you ever get a the rim tape sealed 100%! I messed about with wheels in bathtubs and slowly watched air escape the nipples for ages but the worst is when you set off to section 1 and when you get there the 4lb has completely vanished, day ruined.

For the meantime just tube it then see if you can find an expert in fitting rim tapes to seal it up for you. I am considering trying to source a 2011 rim and spoke set to build up a new wheel off my hub, but with the centre adjusting spokes and different rim style this will be very pricey.

good luck, stay patient, it is a ridiculous problem to have, i had 1990's betas with the DID style rims twenty years ago when tubeless was coming about - why oh why have they gone backwards in design? well to answer my own question cost i guess.

get that tube in and make the most of the sunshine whilst its here.

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This is a real issue on these bikes,and other makes, but seems worse on the evo's. Hence the 2011 bike has a 'DID' style rim (made by morad who make the 2010 rims) i have had the problem and eventually got it partially fixed. The nipple heads are too big for the rim tape to sit properly< and the edge of the tape is a real pain to fit correctly into the groove in the rim. Also have a look where the rim is welded together then ground off flat-some are very poor and mean the tape sits even more badly.

There are loads of threads on here about how to 'seal' up the rim tape when you fit it.in theory it should not need sealed, but - Some use just water, some mtb tyre slime, others dry and some seal the spokes with silicone then seal the edges of the tape with a flexible bodypanel pu adhesive such as sikaflex or tigerseal (available at panel factors anywhere). Be aware the pu adhesive is a real pain to get off when dry, much worse than silicone. Some folk grind the nipples heads down a bit then seal up the rim tape. Essentailly this is just a sh!t design for a tubeless rim.

To get out for the weekend just fire a tube in it. Unless you are world class level you will not notice the way it affects the bike. This will get you away. Long term i had john lampkin fit a new rim as mine was particulary wonky at the welds. He then fitted a new rim tape using pu adhesive ( there is an art to this in itself!!). He did this FOC as the bike was relatively new and i am a long standing customer, however i am sure they will sort you out somehow. That said the wheel is now bent as it wasnt trued up and i cant true it as the sealed tape covers the nipples!! It holds air ok now, not well but passable, ie loses couple of lbs over a week at highish pressure. Bear in mind they hold better at higher pressure as the air holds the tape down on the nipples better - lower pressure ie trials conditions and the leaks are bigger!!

you will be very lucky if you ever get a the rim tape sealed 100%! I messed about with wheels in bathtubs and slowly watched air escape the nipples for ages but the worst is when you set off to section 1 and when you get there the 4lb has completely vanished, day ruined.

For the meantime just tube it then see if you can find an expert in fitting rim tapes to seal it up for you. I am considering trying to source a 2011 rim and spoke set to build up a new wheel off my hub, but with the centre adjusting spokes and different rim style this will be very pricey.

good luck, stay patient, it is a ridiculous problem to have, i had 1990's betas with the DID style rims twenty years ago when tubeless was coming about - why oh why have they gone backwards in design? well to answer my own question cost i guess.

get that tube in and make the most of the sunshine whilst its here.

Good post , but I must add. If you do put a tube in , leave the rim tape in place or it will puncture the 'belly' of the tube .

Phil

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  • 6 months later...

Good post , but I must add. If you do put a tube in , leave the rim tape in place or it will puncture the 'belly' of the tube .

Phil

Got a 2010 evo 300 4t with IRC tyre and it goes down if you ride at correct trials presures, if I fit a tube will I need to drill and fit grippers ? or do the tubelss tyres hold so tight that grippers not needed. Worried about ripping out the valve from the tube if tyre spins on the rim

Any advice appreciated

Thanks

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Got a 2010 evo 300 4t with IRC tyre and it goes down if you ride at correct trials presures, if I fit a tube will I need to drill and fit grippers ? or do the tubelss tyres hold so tight that grippers not needed. Worried about ripping out the valve from the tube if tyre spins on the rim

Any advice appreciated

Thanks

No need for tyre anchors. the tyre will pop up onto the rim and stay there just fine. Go to a cycle shop and get a bottle of leak stop goop - it works a treat and you won't need the tube.

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I had this problem and tried several methods without success. But fitting a Jitsie rim tape with a built in valve, they are quite expensive but are really good. Make sure to use plenty of tyre soap when fitting to help it seat itself in the well. Not had a problem since with this wheel.

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several points to watch for first is the rim clean? no dings? and is the weld joint alighned? ( I recently had a long and very tedious...3 months of DNF's and dispute with importer/supplier. voyage of discovery on this subject with a new Sherco 2011 "old type" rim). Also be sure all your spokes are evenly tensioned,, when fitting the new rim tape be sure to stretch/fit it with even tension. I have to admit that when I finally got a replacement wheel I (one at a time) removed every spoke nipple and put a wipe of sikaflex into the "seat of the nipple/rim joint" (this is where you can't do anything else as it's the way they are made). When all were done like this I put a wipe over the heads of the nipples (I left it overnight to "set") before fitting the new rim tape. You don't need a lot and should work tidily ..it.s very easy to get into a right mess!. I checked new IRC against new Michelin and the IRC was 1mm bigger where it sits on the rim so you could have a rim on bottom limit and a tyre on top limit giving you your problem. It is quite easy to disturb the rim tape when fitting tyres.. IRC's require no levers to fit so don't force it. I reckon Ralphs advice is worth doing also. It's a crap system which will work when assembled with surgical precision... not something current bikes are generally recknowned for. Its a pity we as a community of customers ar so easy going.....putting up with these sort of problems... perhaps if we wern't we would have less of them. Reading back It seems pistonbroke said all this anyway.

Edited by chewy
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  • 4 months later...

Hi All,

Trust me to buy a bike with this air leaking problem. I have read the responses to the problem with interest and am trying to decide whether to install the tyre slime or fit a tube ??. I really want this to be a permanent fix as taking the tyre off is always a pain. Won't the tube pinch at low pressure ??

Please advise

Lincol

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