kentaledge Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Hi all, i have a 250 txt pro 03, the clutch bites and releases very late like 2mm from handle grip, also it rides a little when in gear Any ideas The ledge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowbrow Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 The bite point is determined by the thickness of the clutch plates or 'pack height' as it's known, but before tearing the case off check there's the correct level of fluid in the reservoir. If the bike is stationary and in gear with the clutch lever in, does the clutch gradually release on its own? If so you could have air in the hydraulics or more likely you need to check/replace the seals in the master cylinder and slave cylinder. Check the master cylinder first and if that's okay and you still have a problem then its time to take the case off and take a look inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 Hi all, i have a 250 txt pro 03, the clutch bites and releases very late like 2mm from handle grip, also it rides a little when in gear Any ideas The ledge This must be Andy! Generally, the two critical measurements, provided the M/C seal is in good shape and there is no air in the line, is having a little slack at the lever adjusting screw so that the piston retracts fully back and, that the "fingers" at the clutch pack are around 17.5mm from the center hub. It could be that the clutch fibers have swollen (common on the older clutches) and the fingers will be low. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentaledge Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 This must be Andy! Generally, the two critical measurements, provided the M/C seal is in good shape and there is no air in the line, is having a little slack at the lever adjusting screw so that the piston retracts fully back and, that the "fingers" at the clutch pack are around 17.5mm from the center hub. It could be that the clutch fibers have swollen (common on the older clutches) and the fingers will be low. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentaledge Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 Cheers Jon Waiting for some oil to arrive by currior, why dont garages sell oil any more, unless it for cars??? Ill have to do a trail and error abd see how i go Happy trailing Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentaledge Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 This must be Andy! Generally, the two critical measurements, provided the M/C seal is in good shape and there is no air in the line, is having a little slack at the lever adjusting screw so that the piston retracts fully back and, that the "fingers" at the clutch pack are around 17.5mm from the center hub. It could be that the clutch fibers have swollen (common on the older clutches) and the fingers will be low. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 Cheers Jon Waiting for some oil to arrive by currior, why dont garages sell oil any more, unless it for cars??? Ill have to do a trail and error abd see how i go Happy trailing Andy Andy, I mailed your DVD a couple of days ago and included a machined 1/4" drive 7mm 12-point socket (an extra I had and I doubt you can find them close to where you live) to take the clutch apart. Most sockets have a rounded tip to make them slide on nuts easily but with the 10 very short 12-point GG capscrews that hold the spring in, the radiused tip makes the socket pop off often. A couple of seconds with a lathe squares off the tip nicely and prevents that. Be sure to order a sicecover gasket before you check the clutch. Sometimes the gasket is re-usable, but must often it tears and you'll want to have an extra one handy. You might want to take the clutch lever off and press on the plunger that goes into the master cylinder to try to feel when it starts to build pressure. If it travels more than a few mm's before pressure starts to build, you mave have a worn (actually tapered) bore in the M/C. If the taper is not too bad, a new M/C kit should fix that as the new, unworn seal will have a larger diameter and provide better pressure for the seal lips on the bore wall. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentaledge Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 Andy, I mailed your DVD a couple of days ago and included a machined 1/4" drive 7mm 12-point socket (an extra I had and I doubt you can find them close to where you live) to take the clutch apart. Most sockets have a rounded tip to make them slide on nuts easily but with the 10 very short 12-point GG capscrews that hold the spring in, the radiused tip makes the socket pop off often. A couple of seconds with a lathe squares off the tip nicely and prevents that. Be sure to order a sicecover gasket before you check the clutch. Sometimes the gasket is re-usable, but must often it tears and you'll want to have an extra one handy. You might want to take the clutch lever off and press on the plunger that goes into the master cylinder to try to feel when it starts to build pressure. If it travels more than a few mm's before pressure starts to build, you mave have a worn (actually tapered) bore in the M/C. If the taper is not too bad, a new M/C kit should fix that as the new, unworn seal will have a larger diameter and provide better pressure for the seal lips on the bore wall. Jon Jon, After a long wait and driving on a dodgy clutch and coming off to many times i decided tonight to take the plunge and take the clutch cover off, I had changed the master and this seemed to improve clutch bite a little but it still was not right Took the slave out of the casing, the seals were in good shape , they had not swelled and were in tact, so i looked at the video of how it should look, and there it was, the nail and spring as it is described was in upside down and forced into it's casing, (the head of the nail should face upwards, so the top hat hits the head) it had been driven in and was quite difficult to remove, using a very small screw driver and a lot of fines i managed to remove it I then found the spring was broken in to, and looks a lot shorter than it should be, So although i have new seals, master cylinder , this was not the problem, it was some one else's ignorance and the miss fitting of the nail of the slave and the broken spring, (bodge it and scarper) so now it will be another wait for a new nail and spring , so my baby works with precision she is meant to Thanks for all your help Jon The Ledge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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