02-apr Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 I have fitted new shoes (no thicker than the old ones really)in an effort to improve my front brake. It will hold the bike from running backwards if stopped on a hill but has no retardation properties whatsoever. I have tried a couple of ideas but............... After Sunday's trial it was obvious that the power was being lost twixt lever and brake so I had a closer look at the setup. I don't know if this is the standard cable http://s346.photobucket.com/albums/p409/Olddabber/Yam%20brake/?action=view¤t=002.jpg but there is a bend in the adjuster to clear the proprietary mudguard stay. Pulling on the brake causes this tube to flex (trying to straighten) which seems to be the cause of the sponginess (the cable seems to be fairly new). Is this in fact the standard setup and has anyone had any success in adapting to suit this type of stay? All advice/theories gratefully received as I don't have access to a standard bike for reference. Drum is in good order and surface clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausy300pro Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 I had just about the same problems with front brake on my Yam and had little or no succes in making it any better, everyone told me that brakes on TY175 were or should be quite good, I bought a set of Domino levers and they have transformed the braking and made the clutch lighter and better in operation, may not be the problem that you have but it worked on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Yes that is a standard Yamaha cable There can be sometimes a problem with the plastic sleeve inside that bent steel tube where the plastic sleeve sticks to the cable and creates a lot of friction. I usually remove that plastic liner to avoid the problem. If you are seeing some straightening of the bent steel tube, that just means that you are putting a lot of tension on the cable inner. It is not a problem in itself. If your cable is more than afew years old, the brakes will work noticably better with a new one. To diagnose your braking problem better I suggest you check: How far the cam is rotating from neutral before the shoes touch the drum How well the curvature of the shoe surface matches the surface of the drum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 About the routing of the cable, I have those same mudguard mounts on two of my Yamahas and find that routing the cable between the flat section of the mount and the tyre gives a smoother run for the cable with a Yamaha cable. On one of those bikes I have slightly straightened the bend in the cable tube to make it fit even better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02-apr Posted May 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Thanks guys. Ausy. I intend to change the levers anyway as those fitted are the most horrible I have experienced being rectangular in section with a scrolled end - most unpleasant to use. However the pivot point/nipple hole relationship seems to be as per the norm (I have an old Jap blade lying about) so the leverage should be right. However I take your point, but don't like the look of the sticky-oot clamp on the Domino laying in wait to catch my knee. I had intended to fit the new Maguras I never quite got round to fitting to the Bulto forty years ago but the adjusters won't take the larger diameter cable outer. Feetup. Well there's hardly any cam movement before contact due to the new shoes so leverage there should be OK. The cable looks new but I will need to try another I suppose. Contact area should be better after the next trial (I don't have the facilities to turn the linings down to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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