charliechitlins Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 I got this 200 Pro thing... It's not what I'm accustomed to. Shock seemed way mushy and forks seem way stiff. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I used to set up suspension by pushing down on a footpeg and getting the shocks and forks to go down about the same amount. Fo this to work with the GG, I have to turn the pre-load adjuster ALL the way down. Now the front and rear seem about even, but it's pretty damn stiff. I have the compression knob on the front fork all the way out. Are these standard forks (as opposed to cartridge? Should I be looking at smaller pre-load spacers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 I got this 200 Pro thing... It's not what I'm accustomed to. Shock seemed way mushy and forks seem way stiff. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I used to set up suspension by pushing down on a footpeg and getting the shocks and forks to go down about the same amount. Fo this to work with the GG, I have to turn the pre-load adjuster ALL the way down. Now the front and rear seem about even, but it's pretty damn stiff. I have the compression knob on the front fork all the way out. Are these standard forks (as opposed to cartridge? Should I be looking at smaller pre-load spacers? Charlie, I think all this a bit normal. Regardless of the front end, just set the static sag(weight of bike)on the rear to at or near zero. The front may drop a bit under the bikes own weight(inch or so)but just get the rear spring preload at somewhere at or near 0-10mm drop and no more preload on the spring. When you get to the EX class, we will need to find you a new spring! Even though you may really need a bit heavier spring for your weight, the supple rear will find good grip on anything you are likely to do, and be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzralphy Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Charlie you need to set the sag to 1/3 travel when you are on the bike in a normal position (with riding gear on). Stand on the bike, move about, and let it settle (use a wall for support) then have a friend measure the sag. Be mm accurate. Adjust up or down to correct. Set the damping by, again, getting on the bike and heaving up and down equally with hands and feet... the damping/rebound should feel the same front or back. The damping should be set to just take the springy ness out of the spring. Note that it is the quality of the rear shock that has the most impact on the bike's ability to get traction - and if you set the damping too fast the back wheel essentially bounces off the ground rather than staying in contact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted June 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Thanks, fellas...I'll give the old gal a good set-up...just fishing for tips tricks that might be available from those who own/wrench this particular machine. Anybody know the front and rear suspension travel on this bike. It's a pain to figure it out for myself. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Thanks, fellas...I'll give the old gal a good set-up...just fishing for tips tricks that might be available from those who own/wrench this particular machine. Anybody know the front and rear suspension travel on this bike. It's a pain to figure it out for myself. Thanks If forks are stiff (movement, not the spring strenght itself, which is also adjustable, by taking them apart...). I suggest you clean and change the fluid. I do NOT know what fluid weight is factory, but I'm 220lb person, and I like 7wt in my rebound fork, and 15wt fork oil in compression. Static height (strenght of the spring) is somewhat adjustable on the rear shock, there are 2 big rings you adjust to give more spring strenght or less, up to a finite point, then you can do what I have to do, order the "fat boy" spring, which is 20% stonger spring rate. try to get to stock setting, where as you place weight one middle of seat's lowest point, the bike goes down evenly on front and back ends, and only about 20% of the travel is used up (like 3 or less inches) this is called preload settings. I'm not talking about jumping up and down, right now just with your weight on the bike, IMHO it should be level for a good starting point. To get springs to be softer will be (the opposite of what I do in my narrative)... In the forks, there are 2 options only, you take the forks apart and work on the spring asembly: 1. you can add to (or remove from) the PVC pipe (Please note: you actually replace existing or stock lenght with one of custom length described below) that is in the middle of the 2 srings... There has to be someone who knows, right now it is NOT ME... but If memory is "even close" the stock piece of PVC tubing installed from factory is like 2 or 2.5 inches long. I've replaced the existing with another piece of tubing that measures 1/2 inch longer to make stiffer springs. you will probably need to do the opposite to tune for a lighter springweight, if you are lighter than last owner. 2. Lately I have 2 (a pair) of 10% stiffer fork springs, thus I have spring rates that are 20% stronger than stock setup when both are installed. I keep these springs, that I take with me from bike to bike as I go (I hope they dont change fork MFG's for a while ) However, since I have lost some weight, I am about to take 1 spring out of the front and put the stock rated one back in. but right now, hot summer, I like my front not diving under... but when it is wet slippery my front is way too stiff I think, now that I lost over 50 lbs. Now the speed at which the forks operate in either up or down, is controlled by a fork, one is up (rebound) other is down (compression), dont ask me which is which, as it can change if someone put the bike together differently than stock, but red was one the other is the other, lol. OIL viscosity or weight, makes big changes, then the adjusters on the fork tops, make kind of minor changes... Bigger weigth numbers slows the action for that fork... that is basic info that I understand, there are people out there that understand it a lot better for tuning, and get paid to do so, LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted June 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Thanks, fellas. And, Sting... Trials in Kansas? We need to talk. I live in corn country and need to know how to make trials interesting here. I figure someone from Kansas might have some tips. Actually...I just got some parts from Steve ("Spinner")...another Kansas guy. What are you guys riding over? Hay bales and old tractor tires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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