shedco Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) I have used both types of exhaust wadding, the silent sport stringy stuff & normal blanket type. Both work ok. On the back of the silencer, it is the last triangle shaped area you are working on. In here is the baffle tube that is fixed in place. I started cutting out a small triangle of ally in the middle of this back section. This should reveal the oily mess that is the wadding, that can be pulled out with a hook & pliers. The main point to watch is about half way along the silencer is a weld, this is where the vertical baffle plate is, you do not want to cut into this! I left 10mm of flat material around the removed triangle to fix the new plate/ cover to. Sorry got no pics! Have a look at motomerlins site, they have done a similar thing on a gasgas silencer. Trying to burn it out will not work,you have to remove the crap, & replace the wadding! Good luck and be careful cutting. Edited July 12, 2011 by shedco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) I can recall many people questioning the 2% pre-mix sticker on the Sherco frame ! I must be getting old as I can remember a couple of exhaust re-pack 'how to's ' on here but it looks like they're so old that they've been deleted. There appears to be two main chambers in the Sherco exhaust ,one filled with stainless wire-wool and the other filled with the fibre-glass type of wadding. The two re-pack options ,posted on here, were to cut a window (on the shock side)or split the exhaust down the length of the middle seam (top 'n' bottom) then clear out/re-pack and re-weld the two halves back together. I had this procedure professionally (pah) done but the re-welding melted the packaging so the bike remained noisy....no further forward really . De-greasing agents did seem to work, up to a point.I used to soak mine for the two weeks I was on family holiday ,then drain it and dry it out, for a couple of days, when I got back (never needed my asbestos underpants when I re-assembled and tried it !) As an aside; someone posted up pics of a yellow SWM that had a very well fabricated 'inspection' plate in the exhaust. I think that's the way to go. Edited July 12, 2011 by HAM2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted July 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) well, i sorted the bike out............ i feel so silly...... drained the fuel, and refilled with a leaner mix of 65mm of twostroke 5l of super unleaded..... ran the bike up and down the feild for 20 mins flat out each way...still smokin like a good un . shut off the engine and the smoke was billowing out, after a quick panic about it burstin into flames i started it again and contnued to cane it up and down the meadow..... no real result... apart from my clutch began to slip a little..... i bagan to think that perhaps it was overheating because, as suggested origionaly my head o'rings were passing..i figured that if they were, id possibly have passed coolant past the piston ring and into my engine oil... i thought that if this had happened it might expalin my overheating, and my clutch slipping... i expected that if i drained my gearbox oil id find milky crud in there.... 9 I realaise now on reflection that coolant wouldnt get into my gearbox that way at all, i dont think..hahhah) but i never got that far anyway before i found the stupidest of simple problems.... i thought, id check the coolant level to see if id lost any... so took off the fuel tank. immediatly i could see that the plug cap although on, was not pushed fully home. i removed my irridium plug and put my standard bp5es jobby back in.... problem solved. this simple thing of the plug cap not being seated properly caused SERIOUS over heating... to the point the exhaust was smoking horrible black smoke, the front pipe which was like brandnew chrome is now completly cooked with a blue rainbow tinge all over it.... the seat.mudguard palstic and exhaust guard plastic had almost melt, as did the airbox............ i was looking too hard at the problem, thinking it was deffinaitly timing/stator related and forgot to check the simplest of things. i just cannot belive that somthing so simple sould cause such a dramatic effect.... feel free to have a laugh at my expense, but if your learning and not the greatest of bike mechanics like me, please take this mistake ive made and learn from it...hahahha start with the simple stuff. Edited July 17, 2011 by myzeneye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Actually, I have stayed out of this mele for good reason. If it is indeed fixed now, your muff was simply bong full of excess oil accumulation, which will indeed light off with a bit of hard running. One does need to limit these sessions a bit so as not to have a meltdown! Your plug thing was co-incidental, as if the thing were not on good enough, the thing would cut out totally under high engine loads, as there is not enough electrical energy to support ignition, however poor at this loading. As long as the bike is not overly raspy in tone, it has not blown out or melted the packings, so fine. You can stay on the 62.5ml per 5L diet, as long as you do blow it out uopn occasion for normal trials use. More extreme running will require more oil in the motor for road use and such of constant velocity. Less hard running, as in conmstant putting about, and you can reduce the mix even further so excell accumulation in the exhaust is less likely, yet occasional blowouts are still reccomended to keep things flowing! Gotta get some heat init! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Myzeneye, Everybody on TC has had to learn a lesson or two about trials 'in the real world' ...I'm still learning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Myzeneye, Everybody on TC has had to learn a lesson or two about trials 'in the real world' ...I'm still learning hahha, yes cheers buddy..lesson learnt for sure.... sometimes learning the hard way is the only way... i amde a few mistakes i wont make again.... copemech, thanks...but im sure the plug cap was deffo the issue, it righted the problem immediatly after re seating it. perhaps because i had the irridium plug in it maybe it managed to produce enough of a spark to bridge arc etc... added to that, would it be possible that the alteration in the spark would act in some way like an advanced timing, because i was convinced that that was the problem i was having..... running really really hot, pinking etc...put the cap back on, it was all fine again... as i said, it was a stupid thing to miss, but i learnt a lesson, thats the main thing i guess.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelly1 Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 alls well that ends well mate hows the shoulder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 alls well that ends well mate hows the shoulder buggered..... got to go back the hospital next tuesday to see if it requires surgery.......... it does feel slightly better today, but it just wont work hahaha i can move it from the elbow down no problem as long as i keep my shoulder still....i can lift my arm using the other arm pretty much ok.... but if itry and lift my by it self,1) it wont move at all, 2) i nearly pass out......... so yeah, no rappy mate...hahahhaha ill still do ye mam's heating with one arm tho, you just cant keep a good man down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Actually, I have stayed out of this mele for good reason. If it is indeed fixed now, your muff was simply bong full of excess oil accumulation, which will indeed light off with a bit of hard running. One does need to limit these sessions a bit so as not to have a meltdown! Your plug thing was co-incidental, as if the thing were not on good enough, the thing would cut out totally under high engine loads, as there is not enough electrical energy to support ignition, however poor at this loading. As long as the bike is not overly raspy in tone, it has not blown out or melted the packings, so fine. You can stay on the 62.5ml per 5L diet, as long as you do blow it out uopn occasion for normal trials use. More extreme running will require more oil in the motor for road use and such of constant velocity. Less hard running, as in conmstant putting about, and you can reduce the mix even further so excell accumulation in the exhaust is less likely, yet occasional blowouts are still reccomended to keep things flowing! Gotta get some heat init! I'll give you another up, matey! You still think all that smoke came from the sparkey and altered the timing? You ars smoking crack! Sparkies do not produce smoke themselves! Smoke comes from oil, or coolant, blue vs white! As you are in a gimply way, you can re run the experiment if you like, do report! I'll give you another piece! Don't let the fecking docs hack upon you without good reason untill yu have given things a chance to heal naturally, may take months! But may beat the alternative! Cheers and best to you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted July 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 I'll give you another up, matey! You still think all that smoke came from the sparkey and altered the timing? You ars smoking crack! Sparkies do not produce smoke themselves! Smoke comes from oil, or coolant, blue vs white! As you are in a gimply way, you can re run the experiment if you like, do report! I'll give you another piece! Don't let the fecking docs hack upon you without good reason untill yu have given things a chance to heal naturally, may take months! But may beat the alternative! Cheers and best to you! alright alright go easy on a moron will you...hahahaha...im by no means a mechanic and every problenm i encounter is somthing to learn from... i understand the smoke would come from the oil or coolant but i had figured perhaps the wonky spark had perhaps affected the timing somhow and the bike was running hot due to not haveing complete combustion of all the two stroke oil in the fuel mix..like it was firing at the wrong part of its stroke or somthing but due to it having this monster irridium spark plug in, the spark was strong enough to still ignite the fuel....i then figured this had built up unburnt oil in the exhaust silencer and was burning because the bike was running double wicked hot, again due to the spark/timign issue..... if i was completley wrong then fair enough, as i said, i know next to nothing....im happy to be told im wrong and guided in the right direction, as i said, my diagnosis was uneducated guess work...hahahhahaha the shoulder...well.... your right on that too cope....im gonna insist on some extreme physio before the get the sword out... the things is, over here nhs physio is pretty poor.... if you can afford to go private well thats a different story, but on the nhs, from experience, they just give you an a4 sheet of paper with exersizes on and send you home....in and out, no real focus on the individual.... when i get my a4 sheet, ill be sure to get stuck in....the thought of packing in riding has got to be squashed asap.... a good recovery is the only way thats likly to happen because anything prolonged is just gonna make the possibilities of somthing like it happening again just immpossible. fingers crossed, and thats for you help and guidance. ill get back to my crack pipe now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelly1 Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 i thought the same as you the cap not seated properly meant the spark altered in some way and somehow setting fire to unburnt fuel in the pipe it is a bit of a coinsidence you push the cap home and everything works fine i cant explain it but proof of the pudding etc etc any how you and me had better go halfs on a load of crack save a bit of cash then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02-apr Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 "this means your running yours at about 60-1 ish it must be gargling on the stuff " Don't rely on the markings on an Ipone bottle, they're well out at the sort of ratios we use. Get a syringe and use that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 As an example, I finally broke down and got mesel a expensive ECHO weed wacker! It is pretty sweet, and comes with a till of oil to mix at 50:1. Now, i presume it is a decent semi-synth at least, not sure if full synth as it has no markings to that effeec. Point being, this little fine piece of lawn equipment will run WIDE OPEN at that mix for endless hours if need be! Mind this is an aircooled motor. Old school mix for 2T would be somewhere from 32;1 to 40:1 for that type application. In the trials world, motors are seldome run wide open for long periods of time, and excess oil accumulates in the motor and exhaust, even at an 80:1 ratio which we mostly use even on the pro bikes under standard conditions. I could easily run at a 90 or 100 ratio, keeping in mind no hard road running. Leaner, cleaner , and easier in the pocket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Oh , BTW, the design lifespan on the weed wacker is 300 hours at WOT! That does not sound like much untill one does the math. For me I think it came to about 15 years of use! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Oh , BTW, the design lifespan on the weed wacker is 300 hours at WOT! That does not sound like much untill one does the math. For me I think it came to about 15 years of use! For the benefit of the UK audience :- U.S. weed-wacker = U.K. Strimmer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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