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Beta Evo Clutch Adjustment


ticket2ride
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Chaps,

Just noticed this little movie online: http://betamotor.jp/support/cluch-ajust.htm

What's going on there? Shimming out for better engagement?

Is this an alternative option as opposed to filing/polishing the plates?

You can translate the text, below the video, to get a feel for what they are doing. Basically adjusting for travel after the plates/disks have worn down. Or, adjusting once new (thicker) ones are put in.

Translated Text:

Beta 2 test model (Techno, Rev-3, Evo2T) how to adjust the clutch. This adjustment is intended to adjust the mechanical play of the clutch disc, master cylinder and slave cylinder, such as adjustment of the hydraulic system is different. Adjustment is performed when a change in the thickness of the disk, etc., when the wear of the clutch disc and a new replacement. With the use of, Machine, friction and wear of the disc progresses, the disk reduces the total thickness of the plate, waiting position by the pressure plate is lowered, riff - and reduces the gap between the master. If this trend progresses, state and always has been pushing the pressure plate lifter, due to the insufficient crimping force, the clutch connection failure occurs.
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  • 4 years later...

My 2011 evo 2t has drag. I have done the clutch "fix" (which made my clutch SO much better in every aspect). When I first got the bike used a year ago, it didn't have any. I did the clutch fix soon after getting, and still didn't have any. The last several months it has progressed more and more to having more drag. I have the clutch lever adjusted properly so it fully releases with a small gap between piston and the plunger.

 

I am thinking I need to adjust this shim as mentioned in the video. Do I need to add shim, or remove? I think remove, but that seems backwards? 

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The shim won't make a difference hydraulics are self adjusting.

Have you changed the oil, it'll drag on old oil and they also seem fussy on oil brand.

I tried several fixes on my 2012 before just replacing the pack (friction and steel) and it's been fine since.

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I've only tried 4 oils in it, motul 300v gave the best clutch action, it's expensive but at least it doesn't take much.

I polished the tabs, removed the glue between the friction material, swapped out the two thicker plates, messed with lever adjustment to get maximum travel, tried atf and two putoline oils, measured travel and thickness, tried with two springs removed, did assorted pre start rituals to prevent sticking, tried to source factory spring washers and failed. None of it was worth the hassle compared to just fitting a new set of plates, although I did remove the glue before fitting them and filed high spots of the tabs but did not polish them.

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I agree that the clutch hydraulics are self adjusting and the theory behind the shimming should be flawed.....but I suspect the position of hydraulic pistons especially the slave piston is important. A millimeter or two in the wrong direction may actually affect things. ...I'm keen to try this adjustment

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I agree that the clutch hydraulics are self adjusting and the theory behind the shimming should be flawed.....but I suspect the position of hydraulic pistons especially the slave piston is important. A millimeter or two in the wrong direction may actually affect things. ...I'm keen to try this adjustment

 

I'm with you, I would like to try the adjustment. If were dragging, which way do we need to adjust? Thinner or thicker? 

 

The stock shims are thin. Could we experiment by removing the shim?

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  • 5 years later...
 

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