Jump to content

Which Scorpa should I buy ?


ausy300pro
 Share

Recommended Posts

HI to the Scorpa owners, I am considering buying a modern bike but (for some strange reason) I fancy one of the little four stroke Scorpas, question is would I be better holding out for a 175, and which 175 ??? apparently there are 143cc and 160cc 175,s so from experience I think the 125 would be underpowered so advice on which one to buy would be appreciated, and if anyone has one for sale let me know.

one other thing, I have read somewhere that these bikes were also sold with different spec suspension some better than others or is that just heresay ?

Thanks for any help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have a 125. What I can tell you is the Tys are cable clutch and Sy's are hydraulic clutch and have slightly better forks. Don't think the shock is different though. Also heard that some people get on better with the 125?? Depends on what your level is etc etc. The 143 is an overbored 125(18cc) and the 175 is a different crank case etc.

Cracking little bike with a few tweeks.... :thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Ive had one of the very first 2004 model 125's (got it in Dec 2003) - Great little bike - kept it 2 years and loved it. Then moved to Beta 200, Scorpa SY250, Beta 250 then had a hankering for the little Scorpa again so last year looked for and was lucky to find one of the last 2008 SY200's (163cc)

My advice, get one of the last ones (2007/2008) - if you can find a one !

Engine is tremendous - suspension much beter than the earlier ones and also the Hydraulic clutch makes a difference.

The bikes are simplicity themsleves, clubman competitive and a joy to ride.

My days of buying bikes are over - I've got the 1976 TL125 for classic/twinshock and it's 32 year 'younger brother' in the SY200.

Until they start making the SY200 again (which speaking to Nigel Birkett is nigh on an impossibility) - then thats me done !

cheers

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

thanks John, looks like that is what I will try to get, I have a road bike plus my twinshock (majesty yam) and have lost my appetite for throwing myself at giant rock steps (which seems to be the focal point of any hard section now) so think a 163 Scorpa would be the ideal bike for me to compete in clubman type sections.

ps any idea if a 2005 sy175 will be a 143 or 160 engine cant get a response from seller on fleabay (rcmtrialsport)

Edited by ausy300pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

thanks John, looks like that is what I will try to get, I have a road bike plus my twinshock (majesty yam) and have lost my appetite for throwing myself at giant rock steps (which seems to be the focal point of any hard section now) so think a 163 Scorpa would be the ideal bike for me to compete in clubman type sections.

ps any idea if a 2005 sy175 will be a 143 or 160 engine cant get a response from seller on fleabay (rcmtrialsport)

It will be a 143.

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Just a few further bits and pieces for you (although Nigel Birkett is definitely the person to ask). Please don’t take all this as gospel, but my understanding of the main differences between the standard bike and the “racing” version are (whether 125, 143 or 163), on the racing version:

- Paoli fully adjustable forks

- Smaller fuel tank (3 litres?) which allows full steering lock

- Tubeless rear wheel

Just to complicate things further my bike is registered as a TYS175 but it is a full “racing” specification bike, so don’t rely on the log book to tell you which model is which!

The earlier 143cc “175’s” models were simply an over bored 125. With a 143cc piston and rings and a re-bore it’s a simple job to increase the capacity of a 125cc bike to 143cc. Both the later “175” and “200” models are both 163cc!. The even larger bore requires a larger diameter cylinder liner and the crank cases need boring to accept this. So, a 125 can also be increased to 163cc but it gets quite a bit more involved. My 2007 163cc 175 model has “200” stamped on the barrel, at the back on the bottom left hand (flywheel side) corner.

Here are some of the most common mods which owners make to these bikes.:

Carb: Increase the standard pilot jet from size 15 (standard) to the next size up which is 17.5. A big improvement to starting and low speed running.

Exhaust: In the standard exhaust box has four baffles (steel rods) welded across the section of the inner perforated tube. The accepted mod is to remove two of these although some owners remove all four.

Clutch: The action of the clutch (whether cable or hydraulic) in standard form is extremely fierce and very trials un-friendly. If you remove the vertical rod onto which the clutch actuating arm mounts, you will find a cam machined into the bottom end. The cam in turn operates against the horizontal rod which pushes against (and hence operates) the clutch. Gently softening the radius of the cam on it’s leading edge (a simple job with a die grinder) transforms the action of the clutch and in my view is the single best mod you can make.

Flywheeel: Lightening the flywheel is an accepted mod which does make the engine accelerate much faster. The benefits depend upon your ability and riding style I guess.

Cylinder head: The Yamaha TTR125 is obviously a mass produced engine and there are noticeable gains to be had by “sweetening” the fit of the steel inlet and exhaust seat inserts (I found nasty shoulders on both of mine ) and also by matching the inlet manifold to the inlet port (where there is a pronounced step between the two as standard). I had to play around with the carb allot after doing this, but once sorted this gave another noticeable improvement.

Great little bikes. Have fun 

Edited by Archie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I've had three of these little beauties, a a 143 longride, 143 racing and a 163 (SY 200)the racing models are worth the extra $$$$$.

A very capable bike in the lower grades however because of the lower ground clearence you do need to be a fairly capable rider to ride with the big boys.

In the lower grades you will loose fewer points than the average joe on his new 290 as they are a lot more forgiving.

For riding in the higher grades the bike is ideal for improving your skill level as you don't have the engine power to tackle the bigger stuff you have to make up for it by improving your technique.

For maintainance you clean the air filter change the oil and ????? thats about it, not even a oil filter to change.

A fantastic bike and great fun especially when they call out the results and you realise you have knocked the 250's and 290's off their perch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Clutch: The action of the clutch (whether cable or hydraulic) in standard form is extremely fierce and very trials un-friendly. If you remove the vertical rod onto which the clutch actuating arm mounts, you will find a cam machined into the bottom end. The cam in turn operates against the horizontal rod which pushes against (and hence operates) the clutch. Gently softening the radius of the cam on it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share


×
  • Create New...