kutter Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 (edited) Hi All, This is my first post to this forum. It looks like a great resource. My Name Is Jeff Harkins, I'm a custom knife maker living in Montana. I am also a Gas-Gas dealer for our neck of the woods. I recently got my dream bike a restored 1974 Sherpa T350 #92xx. I haven't had a Bultaco in 30 years so I'm a bit rusty on some things. First, the main problem is it wont start. I rebuilt the Amal 625 carb, all seems to be fine. I Checked the coil and grounding. No BIG blue spark but I could "FEEL" it. Before I attempt anymore checking I have a few questions. 1. How do you check the fluid levels? Is it if you can't see any fluid then it needs some. 2. There seems to be some disparity regarding types and amounts used for Primary and tranny. I read ATF... But anyway, type and amounts would be great. 3. Shift lever stays where you put it, no return to a central position. Is this normal? My last Bull was an Alpina and i don't remember that happening. Also I've noticed in some of the pics on this and other forums an almost vertical orientation. 4. I suppose I need to check the points. But if something is wrong with the tranny I'd rather start there. I've got a manual coming but.... I Really want to break it in. Thanks abunch and best regards, Jeff Edited September 5, 2011 by kutter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Hi All, This is my first post to this forum. It looks like a great resource. My Name Is Jeff Harkins, I'm a custom knife maker living in Montana. I am also a Gas-Gas dealer for our neck of the woods. I recently got my dream bike, fully restored,a 1974 Sherpa T350 #125xx. I haven't had a Bultaco in 30 years so I'm a bit rusty on some things. First, the main problem is it wont start. I rebuilt the Amal 625 carb, all seems to be fine. I Checked the coil and grounding. No BIG blue spark but I could "FEEL" it. Before I attempt anymore checking I have a few questions. 1. How do you check the fluid levels? Is it if you can't see any fluid then it needs some. 2. There seems to be some disparity regarding types and amounts used for Primary and tranny. I read ATF... But anyway, type and amounts would be great. 3. Shift lever stays where you put it, no return to a central position. Is this normal? My last Bull was an Alpina and i don't remember that happening. Also I've noticed in some of the pics on this and other forums an almost vertical orientation. 4. I suppose I need to check the points. But if something is wrong with the tranny I'd rather start there. I've got a manual coming but.... I Reaally want to break it in. Thanks abunch and best regards, Jeff clean the points and check for spark again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 I rebuilt the Amal 625 carb, Carb should be a 627 - typo? Gear selector mechanism can be looked at by removing the clutch cover and removed without having to remove the clutch. Only 3 screws hold it in place. Check that the spring is fitted correctly or not broken. It'll be obvious when you check it. Lever position is up to you but angled up is better to help avoid it catching. Vertical would be a bit extreme for me... Best drain off old oil and start with new. Clutch 300cc of ATF (ok as plates are all steel) Gearbox takes 600cc and normal Silkolene light gear oil will be fine, or other equivalent. The engine will be pretty much the same as your old Alpina and if the Alpina was an early one, they are pretty much the same bike, different gearing, big tank and seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpa325 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 If cleaning the point's doesn't work I would suggest a new condenser as these will cause problems on older bikes. They will give a faint spark but the bike will not run. Remember the points must be 'clean' so run a piece of paper through them after cleaning to remove any residue, best done with the flywheel removed. Carb should be a 27, the earlier 325's had 25's Cheers greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kutter Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 HI all, Thanks for the info. Well the typo was in the model #, its a 92.00.001 according to Hughes. I double checked and it is a 625 Amal. Does that mean its really a 325? I'm going to pull the clutch cover and check the shifter return spring. A couple other questions if you all dont mind. Are these fenders real Bultaco (oem) or the Aluminum replacements I've seen available? I've seen a few different Condensers referenced. I'm wondering if anyone has a definitive part number that I might use at my local Napa store. I see a flat slide Mikuni on Hughes site. Just wondering if any has any thought on this conversion, and what the real part number is. On the card side of things I run a 140 on my gasser. Any idea what the pilot or needle might be good for 4000' and above, either of the 2 carbs. Thanks again, Jeff I tried to post a photo of the bike from my website but it said it wasn't allowed. Theres a picture at www.customknives.net/net/MOJO.htm Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kutter Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 (edited) Hi, Just an update. I pulled the primary cover, loosening the 3 bolts around the shifter first. At which point the shifter began returning to a central position. I faced the shoulders about .003" on each side of the shifting rod. Now I cant seem to get the torsion spring back into the proper position. I still haven't received the manual and i was wondering if anyone had a view of how the spring sets on the second shoulder. Thanks abunch, Jeff Edited August 18, 2011 by kutter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kutter Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Heres a quick pic. Thanks, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 (edited) When you screw the selector plate back on with the 3 screws, the rotating peg will engage the pawls that sit behind it into the selector drum. The peg should be pointing upwards at around 12 o'clock position and will move side to side from about 10 - 2 o'clock. When you then push the selector shaft assembly on, the spring should sit either side of the rotating peg which then sits in the slot in the selector. When the selector moves left or right the spring tensions against the peg and returns it in either direction after a gear is selected. There is only one way it will fit really. When fitting the selector, just move the rotating peg with your hand to position it so that the peg engages in the slot. Check that the shaft isn't bent. Although it is only short, the gear lever is quite vulnerable and can get caught and bend the shaft - which could also cause it to stick as the spring would not be strong enough to return it if it is bent where it comes through the casing. Your gear lever needs to be set at 2 o'clock, it's at about 5 at the moment which is the number of minutes it will last if you ride it like that... Very nice bike. Definitely an M92 which is 325cc yes. I never knew the earlier 325 had a 25mm fitted. I thought they were all 27mm, as per the 250. Edited August 18, 2011 by Woody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kutter Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Thank you Woody for your time. I've been making things with springs for over 20 years, but I'm not getting this. I didn't remove the plate with the 3 screws as the shifter began working when I initially loosened 3 of the case/cover screws. From that I figured that there was a bind between the inner case and the cover. So I took the shoulders down a bit shaft assembly. It seems no matter how I put the spring back on I don't get the return I had when the tension was off the case. .006" shouldn't make too much difference in that regard. Feeling like a dough-head at this point and running a magnet over the ground looking for something... This isn't rocket surgery... maybe just a long day... The spring just doesn't look like its on the shaft right. There was a gap in the spring between the shoulder the the pin that's on the shift pawl/assembly. About the size of the lug that's screwed into the case. Jeez... On another note, a 325cc was called a 350? Would a fellow be better off retrofitting a 27mm Mikuni on this? I like the whole "vintage" thing, but I also like things optimized. Thanks again, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpa325 Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Hi, I am only doing this from memory, but I think the spring tangs are on the wrong side of the pin on the shifter shaft. If they are in the correct position they create a 'hole' or round gap which the arrowed pin on the engine will fit into. All my Bultacos are together so I cant visually check for you Hope this helps, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Hi, I am only doing this from memory, but I think the spring tangs are on the wrong side of the pin on the shifter shaft. If they are in the correct position they create a 'hole' or round gap which the arrowed pin on the engine will fit into. All my Bultacos are together so I cant visually check for you Hope this helps, Greg Yes, it's possible. I'll check when I get home tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kutter Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Thanks Guys. This is true, I had spring reversed in the picture. It can only go on the bike as in the first 2 pic's below. I think #3 is probably where the spring might have been hitting a boss in the case, no biggy. I remember seeing the gap you mention before I pulled the spring off to turn the shoulders back. If I do get the assembly back in and manage to get the lug in the case between the springs, as in the second picture, there is a big gap between #1 and #2. Resulting in slop of 20 degrees or so. Tis a mystery... Regards, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kutter Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Yep, it must have been a long day. This works. DUH. Thanks Guys. Now if I could just get some good spark. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Yep, it must have been a long day. This works. DUH. Thanks Guys. Now if I could just get some good spark. Jeff Yep, that's how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpa325 Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Hi, glad you got that shifter sorted, with regards to the spark- clean points and new condenser should do the trick[maybe disconnect the kill switch just to eliminate that] I don't think condenser brand or size is that important as I can remember getting one of my Bully's to run with one from the local mower shop. Regarding the carby, I would get the bike running first on the amal, go for a few rides and make up your mind then. They will start and run fine on the amal. The bike will be noisy however without some form of additional rear muffler. Your bike is the first of the 325's which were called 350's Cheers Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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