gazzaecowarrior Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 I'm going to drill a small drain hole in the flywheel cover of my Beta 250 4t flywheel cover. Even with a good gasket, water manages to get in due to it leaking around the cable entrance that exits the stator. The flywheel cover on the 4t is alloy and not plastic like it's two stroke counterparts. I was either going to drill a hole on the lowest point of the cover or cut a small hole on the edge of the flywheel cover where it meets the crankcase. What size hole do people recommend ? Too small and I imagine it will be innefective. I was also thinking of drilling another hole at the top of the flywheel cover, tapping a thread in it so that I can fit a small threaded cap to it. This would enable me to unscrew the cap and then blow an airline through it after each ride / wash. Worth doing ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 is the water getting in when you pressure wash the bike or during the trial ? if its only when you pressure wash i wouldnt drill it, just avoid jet washing the gasket and cable area. Cant you silicone the cable route with RTV or somthing ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydo Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 I'd say it was totally possible to seal the cover and the cable entry (I did on my previous beta) using high grade silicone (worth buying ABRO manufactured stuff). Just make sure the surfaces are dry and clean and free from oil etc. Of course make sure the internals are all clean and dry first as well. Drilling ? No you are only inviting the bad stuff in ! Plus the hole may block with mud and crud anyway. Good luck ! GAW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 2-3mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 I use 3mm hole in the bottom and choose a place away from where mud might cover the outside of the hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalley250 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 If it needed an hole to drain it would have one by design. Some years back i rode a Husaberg and they have same issue, so i siliconed the cable and the seal and i never broke down as others flooded. Come winter it will allow water both ways and take ages to dry out. Air line will still leave moisture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 If it needed an hole to drain it would have one by design. Some years back i rode a Husaberg and they have same issue, so i siliconed the cable and the seal and i never broke down as others flooded. Come winter it will allow water both ways and take ages to dry out. Air line will still leave moisture. The cover has a vent for a reason too. If you seal the space completely the pressure goes very low when the gas inside the cover goes from hot to cold suddenly. With a fully sealed space, I would be worried about sucking oil out of the crankcase or popping out the crank seal in those circumstances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaecowarrior Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 is the water getting in when you pressure wash the bike or during the trial ? if its only when you pressure wash i wouldnt drill it, just avoid jet washing the gasket and cable area. Cant you silicone the cable route with RTV or somthing ? It's getting in during the trial and when I wash. Most of the trials in South wales are water based. My last trial on sunday was water based on every section. I don't know if you know the rev 4 but the wires go into the cover in a very different way to most bikes I've owned. Instead of the five or so wires being housed in a sheef which then fits tightly through a rubber grommet and into the cover, the rev 4 has 5 wires which individually go through five holes into a rubber housing on the cover. Its a bugger to water tight. Im currently taking the cover off after every trial. Drilling the holes will help eleviate the need for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaecowarrior Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 If it needed an hole to drain it would have one by design. Some years back i rode a Husaberg and they have same issue, so i siliconed the cable and the seal and i never broke down as others flooded. Come winter it will allow water both ways and take ages to dry out. Air line will still leave moisture. If as you say 'function should predict form' beta would have designed the bike with a kickstart that didn't hit the frame and hot start that worked. manafactures aren't perfect and designs need to be tweeked. The fact that water is getting in is proof of that. Most bikes do have a drain on the flywheel cover. water and electrics, especially stator plates don't live in harmony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalley250 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Well before you get your drill out i would give Mr Lampkin a call as he is helpful and will no doubt be best placed to advise. Just drilling a hole seems a bog job, just remove the case plenty of drainage then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaecowarrior Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 2-3mm That sounds a good idea. I'm on the assumption that water is going to get in whatever so the best outcome would be for it to be able to get out. Agree ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaecowarrior Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 If it needed an hole to drain it would have one by design. Some years back i rode a Husaberg and they have same issue, so i siliconed the cable and the seal and i never broke down as others flooded. Come winter it will allow water both ways and take ages to dry out. Air line will still leave moisture. An air line will not cause condensation if there is access for air to get in and exit afterwards. Thats why air compressors have drain plugs. The hole on the top could also be used to spray in water dispersant like gt85. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Didn't Beta advise a 'v' opening rather than a circular hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaecowarrior Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Didn't Beta advise a 'v' opening rather than a circular hole? That would be a good idea too. Was that the advice for the Rev 3's ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stecks Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 That sounds a good idea. I'm on the assumption that water is going to get in whatever so the best outcome would be for it to be able to get out. Agree ? When I was young and good looking, I used to go caving in wellies. We used to drill holes in the bottom of the wellies for the very same reason. I think I'd give modern LM silicones a chance first, and if that doesn't work, and the Lampkins think its a good idea, then drill a hole - or could you fix a brass drain point and a short length of plastic pipe to vent any moisture away from where the mud accumulates? This advice malarkey is so easy when its not my bike... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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