bondy Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 hi all ive had a leak from my finnal end drive on the front sprocket as some of you well know. i fitted new seal again today same still leaks but i noticed the oil comming out was red so i draind the gear box and it was red. some how the clutch oil witch is red as been geting throw into the gear box. so i rang bultaco uk and he said its rather the seal behind the clutch basket or the o ring on the gear shaft. finaly got to the bottom of this leak question is can i change the seal behind the clutch basket? with out slpiting the crank case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swooshdave Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Sheesh, from the sounds of it you might be better off tearing the whole thing apart. It's not hard and then you know what has been replaced or not. Primary off, flywheel off, barrel off, sprocket off, split cases. New seals and bushes. Re-assemble. Done. Takes longer to type it that to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Yes it*s possible, you find the seal under the clutch basket, there is a distance bush then an o-ring thereafter the oil seal. You need an oil- seal puller to get it out. Pic's will follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Sheesh, from the sounds of it you might be better off tearing the whole thing apart. It's not hard and then you know what has been replaced or not. Primary off, flywheel off, barrel off, sprocket off, split cases. New seals and bushes. Re-assemble. Done. Takes longer to type it that to do it. hi think your right how easy is it to split the crank case? witch is the best way to do it once ive got it strip ready for slpiting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) I personal would not split the engine cases if not really needed, this takes much time and effort and the possibility to do it the wrong way if you are not used to it is very high. Here a drawing and some the photos where the oil seal is located: The red piece is the oil-seal, #43, the orange part is the o-ring, #18, the green piece is the distance bush, #19: How it looks with unmounted clutch and primary chain and flywheel: A close up of the bearing and the distance bush, the o-ring is sadly not seen the photo is a little bit fuzzy: Edited August 26, 2011 by PSchrauber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) If you want to split the cases, get a workshop manual, there it's written up how to do. But as already stated it should only be done if you really need it. It has a reason why Bultaco has placed all the bearings to the gearbox and the crankshaft seals on the outside of the case. They just fail more often then the inner parts. Already when not heating up the cases the right way when splitting or remounting the cases can get you in trouble. Remember: You said beside the issues the engine is running great in your former postings, so why change a running system? Edited August 26, 2011 by PSchrauber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 If you want to split the cases, get a workshop manual, there it's written up, but as already stated it shoulb be done if you really need it. It has a reason why Bultaco has placed all the gearings to the gearbox and the crankshaft seals on the outside of the case, they just fail more often then the inner parts. Already when not heating up the cases the right way when splitting or remounting the cases can get you in trouble. Remember: You said beside the issues the engine is running great in your former postings, so why change a running system? thanks i dont want to split the crank case if idont have to im just gonner change the seal allso why ill have the cltuch basket off ill change the seal on the other side i did notic there was a slight pice missing on the seal plat i have spare one so ill ghange it i have a conplete spare engin witch is all in bits the crank case is slpit got the inners in tins im thinking of puting it together be next year or i might just send it to bultaco uk and let them rebuild it ive got frame and wheels and forks so might make number three Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 thanks i dont want to split the crank case if idont have to im just gonner change the seal allso why ill have the cltuch basket off ill change the seal on the other side i did notic there was a slight pice missing on the seal plat i have spare one so ill ghange it i have a conplete spare engin witch is all in bits the crank case is slpit got the inners in tins im thinking of puting it together be next year or i might just send it to bultaco uk and let them rebuild it ive got frame and wheels and forks so might make number three Oh this sounds interesting so you have three Bultacos, that is nearly a flock. Any pic's to show up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Oh this sounds interesting so you have three Bultacos, that is nearly a flock. Any pic's to show up?thanks for your intrest but i dont know how to put photos on hear. yes i got anougher 199A did run great i took it on a trials holiday back in march it had a amal carb on it ran great till the plug oild up it was runing to ritch so i had to wait till i got home affter my holiday i put a new bing cab i had on the bult ive just restord. so i put the bing on ran great so i desided to part restort it. stript the top end had barrol. and head sand blasted resprayd engin new tank new side panals new seat but cant get my head round the kick start return spring ive got the spring throw the shaft just cant work out how to get enough tenson on the spring so it returns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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