samo Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Mine isn't too bad to start but there is a technique. From cold 5 pushes down on the kickstart to prime then 2 hard kicks to fire up but the critical thing is i have to open the throttle immediately it fires or it wont go. When warm its just one kick but again its critical to open the throttle immediately when it fires. I wonder if the tickover is a touch low so I may try tweaking it. If only I could make the clutch a bit more user friendly!! I have heard too that the clutch is very hard. I'm planing to buy this bike but it looks that I'll wait until Ossa solves the problem with starting the bike and soften the clutch.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deonattard Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Its funny some people say the clutch is hard but at the last trial 10 guys rode or bikes and all said WOW the clutch is so light :-) Also I believe you can change the clutch master cylinder and run a bigger hose if you want to make it feather light, the USA guys seem to know how to do this. Its not something I would bother with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 I find the clutch to be very litght on mine, never had any issues with it, one finger operation all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 mines ok as well jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 (edited) Wow I am 59 years old, weigh 71kgs, have a bad right ankle from a fall on a bike 2 years ago and also,, I have my left hand with only about 60% use of my fingers, due to an injury many years ago. All I can say about the clutch and starting problems, what problems. My clutch is almost as light at the 2011 Sherco 250 I had, (but a little bit less on/off). Have noticed that some off the OSSAs have a heavier pull, but for what I have seen get better in time. Starting issues, My 2012 OSSA kicks over no different than any other bike I have seen, just a different technique, Get on the pegs, get the lever to the top and push fast and down/back, no throttle. It may take 3-6 kicks at times. I gave my bike to a friend (very good B grade rider) to test ride, he has a Beta 300 2011 and fired my bike up first kick, he commented on how easy all the OSSA's are to start,,,,, not my words his. I have issues with my bike, such as Map 13 seems to foul plugs with my style of pottering,,,,, but I do talk to the importer/dealer and we work through any issues, Just liike any bike and manufacturer. Yes OSSA's are different, , fuel injection, Fuel tank infront of radiator, backward engine , (horrid air cleaner position - takes longer to change plugs than other bikes)etc, etc. But they are as good as any bike on the market, with some vert, very good points, and with some areas that the manufacturer will need to continually work on. The 2012 model is much improved on the 2011 model - now has a side stand for starters. OSSA continually brings out new maps, but we do not have to blindly change to that map with the thought that all issues are "fixed". I have a friend (A grade) who has a 2011 model map 11 and will not change - loves the way it performs. LSS and dual maps will be great as an option and I will look forward to that, just like I would like to seen OSSA, have a snap change air cleaner and side stand that stays on the bike Regards everyone, and have fun riding (hope I have not offended) Edited May 2, 2012 by markjw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deonattard Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) Ok bit of a revelation today. On the recommendation of Stevo - he says to lean the bike on against a tree or put it up on a stand. Stand up on the kick starter and lightly jump on it, not really kicking it, just jumping on it and a bit of a kick to get it moving. Do not bother to get top dead centre, just keep kicking it in this manner. This lets the starter go through the stoke smoothly without stopping. If it stops then you need to use a bit more force. This technique is not exhausting, you are just initially jumping on the kick start a little then letting your weight finish it off. Initially when Stevo explained this to me I was just using my weight which wasn't enough at 68kg, you do need to jump on it a little but not much. The outcome, bike fired in 12 kicks and 3 more easy kicks and it was running so 15 kicks total (which is far too many) but this was not an exhausting proceedure. Normally I am using 10 MAN KICKS to get it going which is exhausting, this was not many more easy kicks and its going. I will continue to use this technique for the time being. You do not need to kick it hard at all to get it to start like this. When standing on the ground with no trees around - well its still hard to kick but anyway I have a "cold start" technique that'll get me going without being knackered at the start of the right. Thanks Stevo! At the recommdation of our importer, I have also changed the fuel from Shell V-Power to standard Shell unleaded, and I have changed the oil from GRO Offroad-1 at 100:10 to Motorex Synthetic at 110:1 I don't think the fuel has made any difference to the starting and I have never foulded a plug although the plug when checked was very oily and carboned up so for sure it would have foulded eventually. I'm told by others that the lower octane fuel with the Motorex oil will be less likely to foul plugs so I will run with that for the time being. It looks like the computer cables and software have not shown up at my dealer so it will probably be next week before the computers can be checked. What is going on when all these kicks are happening? Well, you not building up a magic charge in the capacitor behind the number plate. We had this tested and it holds charge for 2-4 seconds. What we believe is going on is that you are priming the fuel pump and building up fuel pressure, soon as you have pressure - bang off it goes. I'm fairly confident the LSS will resolve everyone's problems. One has to question why these were not included from the word go, and secondly why are they still not readily available. I cannot see that there is going to be much technology to it. The sooner Ossa makes these units readily available they sooner they will have more happy customers running around as free sales people for them. I love the Ossa, but if you can't start it, you can't ride. Hopefully there is some light at the end of the tunnel. Edited May 3, 2012 by DeonAttard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hi Dean The LSS should be a priority from OSSA, I think that Montesa use a capacitor to assist the spark at the kick start. firing up the beast does need you to have the bike on the stand or at least you being on the pegs. I think that OSSA should keep the maps coming and also take in all this feed back, AND give us a snap fit air cleaner (twist and lock - from the top), go to Allen screws and banish the torx screws, have a centre removal panel to get at the spark plug, better oil change procedure. I am sure that other OSSA owners could think of a few little items that would make servicing and owning them easier and FUN Also wonder if a clubman should be allowed to get the "Factory R" bike - would really like the LSS and dual map - could always put a low compression head on it with slow action throttle - ultimate tractor for a clubman rider!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothandnail Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Ok bit of a revelation today. Stand up on the kick starter and lightly jump on it, not really kicking it, just jumping on it and a bit of a kick to get it moving. Do not bother to get top dead centre, just keep kicking it in this manner. This lets the starter go through the stoke smoothly without stopping. If it stops then you need to use a bit more force. This technique is not exhausting, you are just initially jumping on the kick start a little then letting your weight finish it off. Initially when Stevo explained this to me I was just using my weight which wasn't enough at 68kg, you do need to jump on it a little but not much. The outcome, bike fired in 12 kicks and 3 more easy kicks and it was running so 15 kicks total (which is far too many) but this was not an exhausting proceedure. Normally I am using 10 MAN KICKS to get it going which is exhausting, this was not many more easy kicks and its going. I will continue to use this technique for the time being. You do not need to kick it hard at all to get it to start like this. NO offence intended , but that's pretty much how I've started EVERY bike for the last 40+ years. I don't think it's ever taken 10 kicks to start mine ,90% of the time it starts 3-4 cold , 1-2 hot . As long as I keep off the throttle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deonattard Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 NO offence intended , but that's pretty much how I've started EVERY bike for the last 40+ years. I don't think it's ever taken 10 kicks to start mine ,90% of the time it starts 3-4 cold , 1-2 hot . As long as I keep off the throttle. None taken. My experience is with 125 MX and Enduro bikes, they are one hard kick, hot, cold whatever and you are up and running. Your experience is with big bore bikes and I bet you're a bigger guy based on your list of bikes, I'm 68kg... My friends who are 100kg need a 450cc bike to keep up with my 125 in the bush. Anyway this soft kick proceedure is not bad, still too many kicks but its not exhausting at least. I think once we have my map updated or confirmed as map 13, reset the tps and up the idle speed maybe, just maybe I can get started in 3-4 kicks cold and in this case add the LSS and I can quit researching a solution and go riding more :-) I'll make a video in about a week after my software is all done and I'll detail the start proceedure so hopefully others with issues won't have to suffer like I have!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjums Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) NO offence intended , but that's pretty much how I've started EVERY bike for the last 40+ years. I don't think it's ever taken 10 kicks to start mine ,90% of the time it starts 3-4 cold , 1-2 hot . As long as I keep off the throttle. I totally agree – never had any problems – Either on MAP11 or 12. I got a pal, that rides a 2011 OSSA, with the MAP 12. He has the same problem that a couple of you guys describe – he need to kick the bike until he turn blue… yet I can ALWAYS start his bike in max 4 kicks cold and 1 hot… - and yes… it’s a bet! Well.. to address the subject about dealers. I have bought my Ossa in Finland. That means that there it a 1000 km and a language barrier between me and the dealer.. Still – I NEVER have had a better dialog, and service before!. My point – it up to the dealer – not OSSA - to get us the service we require. If you want to sell a top of the line product as OSSA, you also should be able to load the new MAPS – In my option the data Cable is a tool, as a spanner or Torx key. (And it isn’t that expensive!) There is ALWAYS something wrong with the bike that you get – no matter the brand. It up to you (the rider) to buy the bike that suits you – and where the “drawbacks” on the bike irritates you the least. example: I did love my Beta Evo – but why the F### did it p*** fuel all over – making it stall when nose down in sections. I could keep on with every bike I ever had - I always find something that can be improved… And thank for that – if not we all still be riding twinshocks.. Again… no offence intended… Edited May 3, 2012 by Tjums Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taff_d Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) managed my first off the bike left footed kick today Went practicing at Harwood Dale and had it all to myself the only thing I saw was a deer Edited May 3, 2012 by Taff_d 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micm Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I have fitted a battery pack and switch to an early 2011 280i. It transforms the starting for the less skilled rider (ie me). You switch it on at the beginning of the trial and off at the finish. It usually starts first kick, even from cold. Ok maybe second now and again. It is still the same highish compression engine of course so you need to get up on the pegs ideally. You do not need to slow kick to prime it, just switch it on, one decent full kick, and bang off you go. The battery system is pretty simple and reasonably low tech. It transformed a wonderful but tricky to start bike into something quite different. You can even tell if you have run out of gas as it makes a different pump priming noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deonattard Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Micm - can you post details and photos on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothandnail Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 NICE pics , taff . Deon , I started small , 5'6" & 139# when senior in HS , now 30 years later 5'11" & 185# . I used to start my brothers early 70's Yamaha 360 when I was about 80# wet , that thing would send you over the bars if it kicked back . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deonattard Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) One good thing about the kick start on the ossa is that it doesn't kick back. Edited May 4, 2012 by DeonAttard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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