ham2 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 i appreciate your thriftiness guidance but im sure my results would amount to a temremental pain in the a*** of a bodged up coil..hahha ill have a go once i ve got the new one. perhaps i could repair it for a spare... i can imagine how to get the existing ht lead out of the sealed unit but cant imagine how i could make decent connections for the new wire.....??? or does it screw on a spile like it does at the spark plug cap end ??? hmmmm now you got me thinking............ If you do get the urge to remove the HT lead from the coil body, let us know how you do it? I've always wondered how to do it but never had a good enough reason to dive in there....but as usual I'm willing to let someone else be the pioneer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 If you do get the urge to remove the HT lead from the coil body, let us know how you do it? I've always wondered how to do it but never had a good enough reason to dive in there....but as usual I'm willing to let someone else be the pioneer as soon as my parts land and ive got myself and the bike sorted, ill set too on the cdi and let you know how it goes.... (man i love that little bannana dude, i could watch him for quite some time....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) If you do get the urge to remove the HT lead from the coil body, let us know how you do it? I've always wondered how to do it but never had a good enough reason to dive in there....but as usual I'm willing to let someone else be the pioneer Job requires a proper prick! "How did he know" , he asks! Edited October 7, 2011 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) right................ parts came today. i ordered a cdi coil, a stator and a "racing loom2 (shortened wiring harness ) the stator i ordered was an "exchange" stator at a price of £140... 40 quid cheaper then a new one but much more of a guarentee then a second hand part from a breakers or off fleebay......or so i thought..... the exchange stator has been repaired yes, namely a new hall effect sensor fitted and sealled with plenty of red goo.... but that all. the bloody thing still has mud caked all over the plugs, the sheathing on the cable was split and slashed in palces, the stator back plate is caked in the crud youd expect to find in a stator youd removed from an old,OLD bike..... the copper coil windings are the originals and again, caked in muck. non of the parts apart from the hall sensor had been replaced or even cleaned for that matter to be fair, though i was doing the right thing in not buying one off a breaker, or off ebay.... i realise that this unit has a new hall sensor on it but the advert on the web site led me to beleive i was getting a reconditioned part. at only 40 quid less then a brand new one, id have expected better. even more so, when i spoke to both the guy who does the "reconditioning" and the shop selling the part, they both led me to beleive the only part that remains from the original i exchanged is the metal back plate !!!! anyway, called the shop today and they didnt seem to be too bothered at my dissatisfaction. they told me that this crappy one ive now got is better then a brand new one because the hall sensor which is the part that fails is far better in this repaired stator...... in short, it guarenteed for 12months so i allthough not really happy, i agreed to just use it. so.... tonight, ive repaired the cable sheathing with some self amalgomating tape. i cleaned the part upand fitted everything back. it starts first kick although im not too sure about the timing marks. there is a chisled mark on the stator same as the one i took off. when i took my stator off this mark lined up with the extreme right hand edge of the face which the bolt locates into... thats where ive reset this new one too.... how ever, im not sure this is right, the picture in the sherco manual shows this mark lining up around 2-3mm to the left of this edge.... i think originally the timing may have been too far retarded and causeing the bike to run mega hot.... so im reluctant to go back to this kind of position with the stator.... dunno ? any comments ? the bike runs and revs well but sound loud and like a bloody tractor..i think it cos its on my beer crate stand and the back wheel,tank, flywheel cover etc etc is all off..perhaps its just everything rattling, maybe ive got the super paranoia's.... fianlly.... routing the lead off the stator........jesus, thats a tight squeeze round the back off the fan etc....ive routed the cable and plugs but cant remember the exact route the cable took and where the plugs should be located... as a result of this, the petrol tank doesnt want to go on... could anyone please post a photo of the wiring harness on their bike with the tank off...so i can see the route or location of the bloody plugs (mines an 03).. the racing harness is great,all the lighting harness is now gone... 5 quid well spent i reckon. Edited October 10, 2011 by myzeneye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 right................ parts came today. i ordered a cdi coil, a stator and a "racing loom2 (shortened wiring harness ) the stator i ordered was an "exchange" stator at a price of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Thout you stated it was initially set full back at the limits of the screw slot? no, sorry dude, it was origianlly set as follows : the chiselled mark on the stator lined up with the extreme right hand, outside edge of the square'ish block which the allen bolt srews into. the elongated slots are positioned more so to the right hand of the slot, as thought the stator has been rotated anti clockwise ( i beleive to retard)theire is still a little travell on the slots to go if i wanted to keep turning the stator anti clock wise but only mayebe around 5mm or so... what im thinking is..... i cant really make out the three timing marks which im told should be stamped into the crank case ( on the squarish block im talkin bout...) there are no real visible marks.... the slot in my stator is set to the extreme outside edge of this block, not a mm or two inside the edge, or in the middle or a mm or two from the right hand edge..... i know that probably sound like gobble de gook, its hard to explain.... when i look at marks stamped in case on photos in other threads like this, the marks are NOT on the extreme out side edge..(in effect, im using no mark,im setting the mark on the stator to the edge of this block where it would be physically impossible to leave or stamp a mark......) thats what tells me this is not right ! added to that, the bike runs double wicked hot. any one with a picture or diagram of an 03 (or there abouts ) bike, please please please, post a pic for me.... im chuffed that ive managed to do this job myslef, but i dont want to throw good money away and fry another stator. (as well as cook all the chrome finish off me exhaust (which incidentally was like brand spanking new, untill i run an irriduam plug and my bike satrted running hot and ending up like this....co-incident....maybe....???) thanks cope, im nearly there on this one... :thumbup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splatshop Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 (edited) Hi Matt, I am sorry that the reconditioned exchange stator isn't what you expected, if you would like you can send it back to us and wait 3 weeks until your stator arrives back from Steve Hardraker we can do that, not a problem. We offer the exchange service for people that want to get back on their bikes as soon as possible, when a stator is repaired the majority of the time it is just the hall sensor that is replaced. When we receive a stator that has been damaged (i.e. coils, backplate) then other parts will be replaced. We will always recommend to our customers to have a reconditioned stator over a new stator as Steve replaces the hall sensor with one that is better quality the original, so there is less chance of you having problems in the future, while saving you money. Please see the attached photo, so you can see where the notch on the stator should be lined up against for factory standard timing (please note this is a photo of a later bike, but the same position applies). Regards Tim Pearson SplatShop.co.uk Edited October 11, 2011 by splatshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splatshop Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 what im thinking is..... i cant really make out the three timing marks which im told should be stamped into the crank case ( on the squarish block im talkin bout...) there are no real visible marks.... the slot in my stator is set to the extreme outside edge of this block, not a mm or two inside the edge, or in the middle or a mm or two from the right hand edge..... These marks on the crankcase were only on the older bikes before the Leonelli ignitions. The marked stamp should be to the right hand side of the top securing bolt. The mark should line up with the right of the casting lug holding the stator in place. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 (edited) Hi Matt, I am sorry that the reconditioned exchange stator isn't what you expected, if you would like you can send it back to us and wait 3 weeks until your stator arrives back from Steve Hardraker we can do that, not a problem. We offer the exchange service for people that want to get back on their bikes as soon as possible, when a stator is repaired the majority of the time it is just the hall sensor that is replaced. When we receive a stator that has been damaged (i.e. coils, backplate) then other parts will be replaced. We will always recommend to our customers to have a reconditioned stator over a new stator as Steve replaces the hall sensor with one that is better quality the original, so there is less chance of you having problems in the future, while saving you money. Please see the attached photo, so you can see where the notch on the stator should be lined up against for factory standard timing (please note this is a photo of a later bike, but the same position applies). Regards Tim Pearson SplatShop.co.uk thanks tim, i appreciate your response...and to be fair, i had'nt mentioned where i had bought the stator from, purposefully, as i am usually more then happy with the service i get from splat. i guess i was just expecting a proper "recon" type part, not second hand, bit raggard round the edges repiared job.....trust me, i want to get straight back out on my bike but i also want value for my money...at only 40 quid less then a new stator, that hall sensor must cost a fair few quid... however, you convinced me over the phone that the uprated hall sensor is what matters, so i took your expert advise and kept the stator. sorry, im just a fussy bugger. as for the picture, thanks for posting it... yes, thats where ive set it to... is that factory/ tdc in that position ? i ran the bike briefly to see it run and fire up etc... it ran for around 45 seconds (as it was a bit late at night.... ) in this short short time, the exhast was quite hot already...... from the marks on that picture...would full anti clock wise rotation of that stator, so it was at the end of the elongated parts, be fully retarded or are we only talking incremants of mm's ....? Edited October 11, 2011 by myzeneye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splatshop Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 from the marks on that picture...would full anti clock wise rotation of that stator, so it was at the end of the elongated parts, be fully retarded or are we only talking incremants of mm's ....? Yea, fully anti-clockwise would be very retarded, but I would only recommend moving it up to 5mm. If you go to retarded you may find that the fuel isn't fully burnt before the exhaust port opens, which could possibly make your exhaust very hot. If you go to advanced then the fuel will ignite too early which will put a lot of strain on the piston and cause a lot of heat, you will notice the bike tends to backfire/kickback when starting. How long is it taking for the fan to kick in once the bike is running on tickover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Yea, fully anti-clockwise would be very retarded, but I would only recommend moving it up to 5mm. If you go to retarded you may find that the fuel isn't fully burnt before the exhaust port opens, which could possibly make your exhaust very hot. If you go to advanced then the fuel will ignite too early which will put a lot of strain on the piston and cause a lot of heat, you will notice the bike tends to backfire/kickback when starting. How long is it taking for the fan to kick in once the bike is running on tickover? ill investigate tonight tim.... ive got the timing set with the stators mark as you say, lining up with the right hand side of the casting lug holding the stator in place. if this is factory setting or, tdc, then that should give me no real problems with unburts fuel should it ?....what i dont understand is, if the mark on the stator lines up with that outside edge of the casting lug, how can there be any kind of mark to line up for retarding position.... or is it just a case of moving the mark a few mm beyond the edge of the lug??? jeez, theres no exact science here... i dont have a strobe and would know how to use one if i did..hahha but i just want to be sure im not gonna damage the bike before i go for a ripp on it.......... ill report back with fan time details later... thanks again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 right, ive been on it tonight...fettling.... changed plug back to statndard bp5es and had a fiddle with idle screw.... seems to run fine now.... still a bit hot on front pipe pretty quick from starting but other then that im ready to give it a test ride..... that is when i can get the friggin petrol tank back on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! arrgrghhhhhh!!!!!! i thought the mither was gonna be in messin with timing etc..... no, its more simple then that. i fitted the new shortened racing loom, ive statshed all the plugs etc and connecter blocks as far in behind the cdi as possible.....honestly, you've never seen a tidier wiring job....but the friggin tank just will not go on right !!!! i dont want to force it, sods law it will split or eventualy rub through.....and man them tanks are expensive....... anyone been here before ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 (edited) ill investigate tonight tim.... ive got the timing set with the stators mark as you say, lining up with the right hand side of the casting lug holding the stator in place. if this is factory setting or, tdc, then that should give me no real problems with unburts fuel should it ?....what i dont understand is, if the mark on the stator lines up with that outside edge of the casting lug, how can there be any kind of mark to line up for retarding position.... or is it just a case of moving the mark a few mm beyond the edge of the lug??? jeez, theres no exact science here... i dont have a strobe and would know how to use one if i did..hahha but i just want to be sure im not gonna damage the bike before i go for a ripp on it.......... ill report back with fan time details later... thanks again... Timing should be fine in the original position set along the right edge. If you did decide to retard it a bit you turn the plate counter so the mark on the stator plate is well inside the casting web. No real need to mark it, just measure the distance. The exact numbers here, either in degrees or mm BTDC are not important, as you just need them in the proper range for proper operation. If it is kicking back or stalling too easily, kick it back just a tad bit. If it is just too aggressive in the power for you, go a tad more. All to taste! As Tim stated, a -5/6 mm would be maximum reccomended retard, with -3/4 being mid, and -1/2 being minimal change. Edited October 12, 2011 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 right, ive been on it tonight...fettling.... changed plug back to statndard bp5es and had a fiddle with idle screw.... seems to run fine now.... still a bit hot on front pipe pretty quick from starting but other then that im ready to give it a test ride..... that is when i can get the friggin petrol tank back on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! arrgrghhhhhh!!!!!! i thought the mither was gonna be in messin with timing etc..... no, its more simple then that. i fitted the new shortened racing loom, ive statshed all the plugs etc and connecter blocks as far in behind the cdi as possible.....honestly, you've never seen a tidier wiring job....but the friggin tank just will not go on right !!!! i dont want to force it, sods law it will split or eventualy rub through.....and man them tanks are expensive....... anyone been here before ? Yup, From what I remember 'neat and tidy' wiring is a worse tank-fit than 'bung it in' is?? Give me a some time and I'll take a piccy of my 05 with the tank off. Hopefully your tank has not expanded whilst it was out of the frame, like some Shercos do !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Yup, From what I remember 'neat and tidy' wiring is a worse tank-fit than 'bung it in' is?? Give me a some time and I'll take a piccy of my 05 with the tank off. Hopefully your tank has not expanded whilst it was out of the frame, like some Shercos do !! ham mate that would be brill.... ive been carfull to drain the tank etc whilst its out of the bike but new cdi and look etc, cables re routed it just dont wanna go back on... i swear youll never see a neater wiring job can work out where im goin wrong.... post a pic, put me out me misery..... copemech....cheers dude, them measurments are very helpful.... ill stick with factory, thats where it was set....although i am tempted to retard it a little......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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