simmsy Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 What would be the suggested spring height. I weight 80 KG. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 At your given weight, I would suggest around 10-20mm range of static sag(weight of bike only, on its wheels), possibly closer to the 10, depending upon preferance. That's about all you can do , as heavier springs are like unobtanium it seems, and you are kinda on the at the top end of what the stock springs handle, however I have known many much heavier riders get along just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simmsy Posted October 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 At your given weight, I would suggest around 10-20mm range of static sag(weight of bike only, on its wheels), possibly closer to the 10, depending upon preferance. That's about all you can do , as heavier springs are like unobtanium it seems, and you are kinda on the at the top end of what the stock springs handle, however I have known many much heavier riders get along just fine. Thanks for the reply, What is the best way to measure the static sag? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzagreener Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Thanks for the reply, What is the best way to measure the static sag? Cheers i woulod like to know this as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Thanks for the reply, What is the best way to measure the static sag? Cheers OK then, easy peasy method i use. Just get on the left side of the bike and stand it straight up on it's wheels. Reach round and grab the muff outlet, pull up and push down gently, there should be movement there in both directions(as it is floating under the bikes own weight) which it should. Now get a good feel for the neutral point there within the float, that is your static sag point. If you are able to pull up more than 30mm or so, you might want to wind the spring up a bit. A heavier rider might want to decrease this lost travel by a bit and reduce that a bit more. All said, a real heavy fellow may want to take all this to near zero, yet that defies certain suspention theory reasioning and is not advised by me. It needs to float a bit! You can put measures to all this from the axle to a point on the bike if you wish, yet it is mostly done by feel in my world. As it seems it just needs to be in range for what it is. If there were more available spring alternatives, then we might change the measure to the (loaded)rider side, yet this static side would not change much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewy Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 (edited) Here's another shocking question. I found/find the rear suspension is overdamped with the Olle shock (2011 st250 ) it has been "dead" since new yet it was better in warmer climate (40 C plus)...( oil thinner?)sooooooooo I have by coincidence today been having a look, I set out to just clean/regrease links and adjust the damping. However the damping adjuster wasn't clicking so I investigated; it is basically a taper and a thread with click stops milled into the taper which lifts or lets fall the (I'll call it ) damper regulator rod c. 4mm dia running inside the damper shaft that we can all see from outside. My problem and perhaps other folk have the same is that this little rod doesn't move freely (I can lever it up carefully with a small screwdriver and have to bang top of the shock to shock to get it to come down again)..this is first time apart and there was no corrosion in fact all nicely plastered in white grease. My question is; should this 4mm rod work in a similar fashion to front fork dampers?; in my tiny minds eye I see a set of bell or dished washers being flattened or let open by moving the rod up or down which in turn lets oil pas more easily between them. If so and the rod is sticking up are the washers supposed to be flattened or open I would guess that down is closed or more damping ( the handbook indicates same as do the mechanics of the adjusting screw) . Even though I tried the damping with the rod up or down it made no difference suggesting a problem further inside. Finally as it is a gas over oil type shock and there is an O ring on the little adjuster screw and there was no escape of gas on dissasembly I am assuming the gas is sealed in further up in the damper or there was no gas in there in the first place. It seems with this shock there is no way to get less damping whilst keeping some adjustment or has anybody A) spotted a mistake in my reasoning? found a way to get less damping without doing something radical like setting fire to the ruddy thing? ( and of course standing well back!) Edited October 20, 2011 by chewy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Here's another shocking question. I found/find the rear suspension is overdamped with the Olle shock (2011 st250 ) it has been "dead" since new yet it was better in warmer climate (40 C plus)...( oil thinner?)sooooooooo I have by coincidence today been having a look, I set out to just clean/regrease links and adjust the damping. However the damping adjuster wasn't clicking so I investigated; it is basically a taper and a thread with click stops milled into the taper which lifts or lets fall the (I'll call it ) damper regulator rod c. 4mm dia running inside the damper shaft that we can all see from outside. My problem and perhaps other folk have the same is that this little rod doesn't move freely (I can lever it up carefully with a small screwdriver and have to bang top of the shock to shock to get it to come down again)..this is first time apart and there was no corrosion in fact all nicely plastered in white grease. My question is; should this 4mm rod work in a similar fashion to front fork dampers?; in my tiny minds eye I see a set of bell or dished washers being flattened or let open by moving the rod up or down which in turn lets oil pas more easily between them. If so and the rod is sticking up are the washers supposed to be flattened or open I would guess that down is closed or more damping ( the handbook indicates same as do the mechanics of the adjusting screw) . Even though I tried the damping with the rod up or down it made no difference suggesting a problem further inside. Finally as it is a gas over oil type shock and there is an O ring on the little adjuster screw and there was no escape of gas on dissasembly I am assuming the gas is sealed in further up in the damper or there was no gas in there in the first place. It seems with this shock there is no way to get less damping whilst keeping some adjustment or has anybody A) spotted a mistake in my reasoning? found a way to get less damping without doing something radical like setting fire to the ruddy thing? ( and of course standing well back!) I cannot comment directly on your year model, as mine is '07, yet on mine, seems I must run the adjuster screw all in(full rebound damping), then back out 3-4 click range to ge a moderate amount of rebound damping. More clicks out and the thing seems too quick(pogo). I do not think compression damping is changed by this, so it seems. It does get sensitive to change within the shorter end range of the screw. No real idea what is in there, yet I am thinking the center rod is nothing but a tapered orface rod at the other end. Obvoiusly sealed and may be tight to move, yet mine does seem to change readly with the screw and a bounce on the rear for a feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewy Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Thanks for commenting Cope I think its just the way these shocks are ..it's why most good riders have an aftermarket shock on a new bike. it's just that I had a go on a new 125 GAS Gas last weekend...man it was a a revelation. I think I'll live with it (I have been for 11 months now) and save my pennies for a Jotagas ...bet that will have a few problems..... only trials junkies buy in problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 Thanks for commenting Cope I think its just the way these shocks are ..it's why most good riders have an aftermarket shock on a new bike. it's just that I had a go on a new 125 GAS Gas last weekend...man it was a a revelation. I think I'll live with it (I have been for 11 months now) and save my pennies for a Jotagas ...bet that will have a few problems..... only trials junkies buy in problems. Not sure I am adventurous enough to become one of their test pilots! I have issues with 4T's in competition, but I gotta admit that 250 Evo 4T is a real pussycat for a punter, and can still muster some real grunt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewy Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 The big one is better (think it.s 290/300) rode one a few weeks ago but the sherco has Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simmsy Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Just one more question "sorry" Would the bike have more traction and grip in slippery conditions with the rear spring wound up tight or with the spring loose. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Just one more question "sorry" Would the bike have more traction and grip in slippery conditions with the rear spring wound up tight or with the spring loose. Thanks In a way this is why you do not want to overwind them in the first place. In the range of the spring, the 20mm or so static drop may still apply. Not more than 30. In the mud you gotta let the rear dig for traction, which means keeping your weight back. If you r bike has the fork tubes raised in the clamps, you may want to extend them to flush as well, which helps transfer weight to the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasti Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 So... is there on the market some stonger springs that could be replaced with the stock ones. I own a 2007 Sherco 3.2 and I am quite a heavy rider (90kg). I found the stock spring a litlle bit to soft for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 I am not aware of any currently available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasti Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 I am not aware of any currently available. I wrote an e-mail to the Olle factory about the stiffer spring... here is an answer: The spring strength of this model of shock absorber is 7,2 kg/mm. We have another one of 8,3 kg/mm. If you are interested in it, we could send you the spring and change it yourself or if you prefer it, you could send us the shock absorber and we could revise it... it includes the checking of all the components, change of compression buffer and change of oil and gas. After revising it, we would send you the shock absorber with the new spring mounted and we would return you the old spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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